Luv2Wrench

Allow me to recommend Chad for your paint. chadspaintsupply@gmail.com 269-426-6000 The base he supplied me couldn't have been any better. Very highly recommend. It was a few years ago but I paid a bit over $300 a gallon.

I make so many mistakes I'm a bit suspicious when something goes to plan.

Excellent job on the 3d printed piece!

I'm sure you stated this earlier in the thread and I'll fully admit I'm too lazy to go back and look for it. What is the width of the square hole?

4 more hours eh? So you'll be good to start on mine this weekend?

Every year I do the emissions dance with my daughter's 1998 Mercedes CLK 320. This year we reset the CEL and she drove quick start/stop trips before heading to the tester. She's mastered the process by now. This year, however, when she pulled in to get the test the guy said "No more tests, car is 25 years old". One less problem for us now!

Thanks! A doghouse for the air compressor is a great idea and the original plan for the reconfiguration included moving the air compressor to the extension. I changed my mind for a few reasons (the short of it is that moving it would be more pain than gain). First, it needs a 30amp circuit and I didn't run anything that hefty into that part of the shop and, of course, all those walls were finished years ago. The air system is copper pipe and is designed such that it uses the height and length of the attic to cool the air and help the water condense. Each "take-off" is branched up and then down to help keep the water out. The end of the line goes to a drain. Moving the air compressor would break this system and it works so well I didn't want to try and rework it. Finally, while it does take up a fair amount of room in the machine shop it isn't that bad. It is also at the far end of the shop and the noise is not bad at all. I also wear ear protection anytime I'm using an air tool so I don't really hear it anyway. Fortunately the system is still air tight so the compressor doesn't kick on unless I'm using a tool. One option would be to put it literally on the other side of the wall outside but that area is what you see from inside the house. I might still do that one day because I could make it look acceptable but the amount of work would be substantial.

Not really. The Metz restoration was paused in 2017. At that point of the restoration I had done about all I could do without restoring (fabricating) the driveline. I switched to the 1952 MG TD as a "quick project" that took nearly 5 years as life had a few surprised for me... as does for all of use. During the MG TD restoration I collected the machines I would need to repair and fabricate the parts needed for the Metz. To be honest I collected a few more machines than I probably needed as I became infected by the Old Iron Disease. Once the machine shop is completed I need to add a 20'x8' extension to the shop that will allow me to be much more efficient.

The last month or so I've been reconfiguring the 12'x24' back section of my shop. This area is separated from the main shop by a wall. 10 or so years ago when I converted the outbuilding into the shop I planned on using that 12'x24' section as my office. I wasn't 100% sure about doing that so I decided to not finish the drywall so that I could take the drywall down If I needed to change where the electrical went. Over the years I decided to put the machine tools in the area and being able to remove the panels was very helpful. For the reconfiguration I took all but 4 panels down so that I could get the electrical where it needed to be. I added a cutout in the dividing wall for the planer table. In addition I had to make the door 54" wide so that I could get the machines in. I've spent the last few weeks doing that work and then, of course, putting all the drywall back up as well as finishing it for paint. I also added trim around the windows and such. I finally got all that completed and painted Friday. Today I moved the machines in!! I don't have everything in and I'll probably make some changes but I'm thrilled to have the beginnings of a proper machine shop.

Neat, thanks for sharing!

If the arrows on the crank are to be believed... it will rotate in the correct direction.

This weekend I took a 13 hour drive to pickup a Gray Marine Fireball 327 and the parts needed to convert it back to an automobile engine. I was extremely lucky to not only find the 327 marine engine relatively close to me, but to also find another seller that was selling the parts needed to convert it back to an automobile engine and they were only a few hours away from the seller of the engine. All together it was a 13 hour drive but I met two great guys and have a wonderful 327 to possibly put in the Nash Healey next year. I took the heads off and was amazed at the condition of the cylinder walls. I think the engine might have been rebuilt shortly before being taken out of service. The bore was 0.030 over and the cross hatch pattern was still clear all around. I might have lucked into a really good engine. I'll tear it down next year and check all the tolerances. I wouldn't be shocked if all it needs is a gasket kit and some love. For those that don't know (which included me a couple weeks ago) the Gray Marine Fireball 327 is an AMC 327 long block that Gray Marine marinized, mainly by changing the cooling system. There are various pieces that are needed to go back to a car engine and I was lucky that a seller was selling what was left of an AMC 327 that threw a rod through the block. I think it might also have a camshaft that is more suited to power at lower RPM so I might get that reground.

The washer stack enhances cornering, right?

Love the new project! Regarding the "hard starting" and changing the battery cables... was it hard to start because it turned over slowly and the new cables made it turn over faster? The Nash Healey turns over really, really slow. It might be normal but seems really slow. The cables looked fine but I guess the corrosion could be inside and hidden by the insulation.

Same for me on the Hendey shaper. Nut for the drive wheel was LH and everything else on the shaft was RH.

I spent longer that I'd care to admit trying to get the nut to thread on the passenger's side of the front axle on the Metz. It was only when I went to file the threads that I noticed they were going the "other" way. I was so embarrassed I felt me ears start to burn, lol.

No fair labeling them. What kind of metal did you use for those?

I'm looking for an AMC 250 V8 bell housing that mates to a Borg Warner T86 manual transmission.

Things are still going smoothly. The Monarch Junior lathe restoration is completed. That's the last major machine that needs restoration. The process of reconfiguring the 24'x12' room that will become the machine shop has started. With any luck I should be able to start moving machine tools in by end of this month. Here's a picture of the Monarch Junior. Not quite finished in this photo but close enough to get an idea of what it's like. It has an 11" swing and a taper attachment. I have no idea how well it works but hopefully we'll find out in the next month or so.

Definitely some mixed emotions today but she's going to a home where she'll be loved and enjoyed. Here's a final picture. Thanks to @Bills Auto Works for wonderful shipping service as usual.

Those measurements match what I have for my 1913 Metz Model 22 Roadster. I don't have a complete set and I would love to have more. I will send you a pm and email.

Contact has been made and an offering is pending. I believe my MG has found the perfect new home.

Gracious might as well be his middle name. I doubt I would have made it very far into the "machinist" world without his help.

Can you post some info on your expanding collet/mandrel/arbor? Do you have a set of them? How much do they expand?

Glad you found my posts helpful! I did not have any issues with the head studs. I used the two nut technique and they all came out without issue. I did apply heat and Kroil before I started. The exhaust studs were the hardest to get out but heat and Kroil eventually worked. I believe the Nash Healey had not only a shield between the exhaust and carbs but it was done in such a way to funnel air from behind the radiator. I'll try to find a picture and post it below. The gasket set was $415 + $90 shipping and handling. They will want to know the distance between the carbs. Check and see what kind of rear seal you have and make sure they send you the right one. There are two different types. One is a rope seal. I believe oversized rings were available but I didn't want to bore out the block. That might be an option for you. Unfortunately I don't know which of the oil seals I used. I can find all the part numbers I ordered. The harmonic balancer is in the crankshaft pulley. $209 to get rebuilt, $17 shipping in USA. email David for more information langsatherdavid@gmail.com I didn't know about the camshaft being steel, that is interesting, thanks for the info!