ckowner

Remember that this car was in transit from home to home for many years with some work being done on and off. It is amazing that of all the pieces of the car I started with in 1971 nothing was lost or misplaced. The gutters were bent because something had fallen on the car way back when, as the pictures show, after the seams were sealed, the straightened gutters were reinstalled with nails, and then the small herring bone shaped strips were installed to cover the nails. These filler strips were in sad condition, but meticulously straightened and reused.

Thanks for the comments. Landman I thoroughly enjoyed your postings and can relate to your project. I am not an automotive professional and have operated on a limited budget with a lot of patience. I have learned a lot over the years from people like the ones that contribute to this forum, and would like to share some of the things that I have learned through posting on this forum. The metal restoration of this car took 9 weeks of steady work. First the main body had the quarter panels, inner fenders, some rear floor section, and roof rails repaired. Any rusted areas, be it even pin holes were replaced with patch panels formed with an english wheel, acetelene and hammer welded. One issue was to get the doors lined up with the body. The roof section and the main body are connected with wood. Once this was realigned and re nailed everything started to look like it should. Once all the nailing was done, the seam was masked and properly sealed. See pictures of gutter area over door and bottom of roof line.

As is usually the case with cars that are exposed to the weather, the metal develops many rust pin holes because of wood holding moisture. As you can see the roof rails and the rumble seat lid were victims of this. all the metal was replaced. One of the roof rails was removed, metal patch panels installed and then welded back and all body work finished with lead

Once I had the confidence that the car could be restored to the original or very close to it, I had contact with a friend who was an "old country" semi retired panel beater. He came to see the car and took on the metal work. I will upload some pictures and comment on the progress. The attached pictures show the replacement of inner fender metal replacement

For many years I struggled with not having parts which were quite right. The front fenders I used were from the 1929 Chrysler "65". It had a longer wheelbase than the 109" DeSoto and part of the difference was made up in the fender curve. The 1929 engine was longer, so the rear mount was 2" further back on the frame, and the front motor mounts were different. It was discouraging for many years, with many suggesting to just drop a V-8 into it. I 2008 I came across a great guy who had bought a 1930 CK sedan as a parts car. In the end it was the car that got this project going. The parts needed were nicely crated and shipped north. A mock up car was assembled. Since the donor car was a 4dr sedan, the rear fenders were narrower at the top. As I don't want to bore readers with all the details, I will start with the picture of the car put together with the right body parts. The only thing missing was a lot of money.

This was the donor car at that time. Towed 750 miles on its original rubber through the mountains by a 1942 Plymouth with original drive train (6), home made tow bar. One flat tire on the Chrysler (destroyed the wheel too

Thank you for the nice comments. I have many pictures and a story to go with them. The story starts with a 19 year old (me) that just wanted an "old" car in 1971. Not being able to find anything locally, a trip with another car friend was planned to Alberta to go car hunting. While visiting friends north of Edmonton Alberta, we went from farm to farm asking if anyone had anything. After some time we located this treasure in the bush in the back of a farmer's field. After agreeing to a $15.00 sale price, the car was loaded on a hay wagon and transported to my friends farm where it was stored till transportation to Surrey, BC could be arranged. I did not know what the car was since there was no radiator, hood, front end, to identify the make. We decided that it was an early Chrysler product. This prompted us to find another car with a drive train. A 1929 Chrysler 65 was located in southern Alberta. Both cars were hauled home and the school of hard knocks was enrolled. At 19 with no knowledge of early Chrysler development I was fairly confident the "65" drive train was a shoe in. Much adapting (now called butchering) all had to be corrected in later years. One picture shows the car with the Chrysler hood and radiator. Too small and nothing lines up, but it looked like a car. The car was identified as a 1930 DeSoto CK6 with a rumble seat. A Canadian car, one of 600 total production from Windsor. I have yet to see a picture of one anywhere other than archived one in Don Butler's book, and an artist conception in the original sales brochure. One other exists in Ontario (2 serial #s higher) but it is being turned to a rod. Too far gone and no parts. I attached some pictures to enjoy. I'm not getting them in the order I want, but maybe I'll get that figured out.

Just thought I would share a before and after pictures of my car. Finished last year, it was a field find in Northern Alberta in 1971, purchased for $15.00. It is a Canadian car, one of 600 total production. The car was very incomplete: no hood, radiator, front axle, 1/2 an engine. Had to cut down a tree growing through the engine compartment to get it out of the bush. Many times during these years life and family were the priority. Now we can enjoy it together. The grand kids love the rumble seat and love the attention.

Hi David If you go to the third page on the Plymouth forum, you will find a trunk lid like that for sale. Good pictures of the inside, Also on line there is a 1930 CK for sale, It shows a picture of the lid open. Not much else to go by regards Rick

Being the owner of a 1930DeSoto CK 6 wheel rumble seat coupe that is now restored, I find this an interesting question. I acquired my car in 1971 as a basket case and have done a lot of research over the years. According to the published data that I have found, all CK cars had the wide profile radiator shell. The model K cars had the narrow profile, The difference in the amount of chrome showing is made up by the length of the hood. It could be that the car was repaired at one time with a model K replacement radiator and hood (probably more readily available). Of course there is a chance that the factory used up some old parts into a new model year. This does not appear to be officially recorded anywhere. After all it was the depression. As far as the wood in the trunk lid, in my opinion it may have been replaced, but it does copy original. The support brackets are definitely not original. The closed body CK cars had all steel doors, steel floor except for the front ahead of the seat, some wood structure between the top and bottom body sections, and wood lining the roof area. The trunk lid and rumble lids were lined with wood for structural strength. The CK roadsters had wood into the rear floor area as well. If you have access to it, the book "The Plymouth DeSoto Story" by Don Butler has the most information on these cars. The WPC News also ran a feature on the 1930 DeSoto 6 & 8 in May 1974 after almost concelling it due to lack of information. Hope some of this helps Rick VanOene

I am somewhat surprised at where this thread is going. I asked a simple question as to the source of a 1930 DeSoto oil pressure relief spring. Since it was common to all Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge/DeSoto engines from 1929-1932, part #50637, I would think that someone somewhere sells these. I am hesitant to go the generic spring supply route, but if that is my last resort, that is what I will do. Does anyone have the actual spec's on these springs? Thanks for your help Rick

Seeing that this spring was common to almost all Mopar six cylinder engines from 1929-1932, I would imagine that someone reproduces and sells them. Part # 50637. Who can help? I had a 1931 Chrysler CM engine with the same spring, but when I removed it from the housing, it fell apart in 3 pieces. I guess the metal just fatigues after 80+ years.

Hi ply33 The DeSoto part number is 50637

I am looking for a new oil pressure relief spring for my 1930 DeSoto CK6. It is the same as a Chrysler CJ. Andy Bernbaum lists kits from 1933 and up. Can anyone help with a cross reference or a part# and a supplier. Thanks, Rick

I have had some success. Checked the gasket on the oil pump. It came with the gasket kit for that engine. I cut a new gasket from kitchen parchment paper with a thin wipe of liquid gasket for good measure and to hold the parchment paper in place. I polished the bottom plate to a smooth finish. Now my oil pressure still starts at 35lbs but only drops to around 20lbs. Since the engine was completely rebuilt, could it be that the oil pressure relief spring bolt was not turned in tight enough? It is a 1930 DeSoto CK6 engine, same set up as most early mopar sixes. The oil used is Shell rotella T 15-40 oil since I have an external oil filter. Thanks for your help Rick VanOene 1930 DeSoto CK6 6wheel rumbleseat coupe

I tried a good contact cement but it did not seem to do the job. A floor layer recommended a 2 part epoxy glue from a floor supply store. It worked great!

I am having the same issues with oil pressure as described above. The engine was completely rebuilt, new babbitt, pistons, rings etc. All bearing clearances were meticulously checked. The oil pressure starts at 30-35lbs and drops to under 10lbs when warm. Now I am starting to think that the gasket on the plate of the pump is too thick. I made the gasket from the thinnest material I had, but it is probably too thick. What would be the proper material to use? Thanks for your help Rick VanOene 1930 DeSoto CK 6- 6 wheel rumble seat coupe(Canadian)

Hi Richard I sent you an email but have not had a reply. I have 3 brass left hand thread nuts and more steel ones. They have the large shoulder for Budd wheels Rick

I have a 1930 DeSoto CK6 which came with 1 rear tail light and 2 front fender parking lights (miniature head lights) The tail light had a double filament bulb for lights and brake. I fabricated a mirror image mounting bracket for a rear right tail light and bought a column mounted signal light control with a 6 volt flasher. With the help of a couple of 6volt relays, I control the front fender lights. If the parking lights are on, the relays flash them off when the signals operate, and when the parking lights are off, the relays flash them on when the signals operate. I am not sure whether LED bulbs would work, as they may not create enough of a load to operate the flasher

From the Motors auto repair manual eleventh edition p: 415 " Steering gear- Steering wheel & gear remove and replace- 1935-1937 Press down on the horn button and turn it as far as possible. When the pressure is released, the button will pop out. Remove the steering wheelhub nut, and with a suitable puller, remove the wheel. Loosen the steering column jacket clamp. Remove the pitman arm with a suitable puller. Remove the bolts which fasten the steering gear to the frame and lift the assembly out of the car. Reverse the procedure to install" Hope this helps Rick

It would only be speculation on my part to tell you what specific sizes these wrenches are. Probably 1/2", 9/16", and 3/4". They could also have been double ended wrenches. I would suggest that, if you can find some old wrenches in these sizes, you add them to your collection. If you can find a dictionary explanation of old car terms (No 1, No 2, No 5 wrenches or small braid wire, medium braid wire, large braid wire) you could share that with the rest of us. As I said earlier, to my knowledge there are no pictures of these items or of all the car models (after 45 years of searching) Maybe other club members have more information Rick

Judging by the exhaust manifold, the water inlet on the head, and the front motor mounts, you definitely have a model K

I still have a front bumper. The axles wheels and steering column have been sold. The engine and transmission are spoken for if we can find a reasonable way of shipping to Tucson.

The wheels which I had on a Chrysler 65 were 18" with lock rings, 6 bolt on 6.5" circle with 6 5/8 cap openings. I believe the 1929 and early 1930 DeSotos had a 19" wheel with the same bolt pattern and cap hole. The 1930 Canadian DeSoto Ck had 18" wheels with lock rings and a 5 on 5 1/2 with a 6" cap opening. Early Chryslers also used the 5 x 5 1/2 bolt pattern. Chev used a 6 on 6 bolt pattern. One would have to consult an old wheel book to properly identify each wheel. For many cars wire wheels were a pricey option during the depression, and different options were available as far as I know. (Budd, Kelsey Hayes, Motorwheel etc

Is that a 1929 Chrysler 65 engine? I could send you a picture of the front cast timing chain cover that supports the engine on the front frame cradle. I believe the actual mount is nothing more than a thick rubber washer that absorbs the vibration.