michaelod

In the 1970's my brother worked as a mechanic at a GM dealership in Anchorage, Alaska. A lady came in with a new Cadillac complaining of an irritating noise that was intermittently occurring. The dealership reported they were unable to locate anything. The lady returned again and they ended up completely tearing the interior apart. Eventually in a recessed area of a quarter panel they located a can of marbles containing a note that stated "Bet you had a ... of a time finding this!" that had been placed in there by someone at the factory. At the time the dealership nor the customer found the joke very funny.

I have one from a 1929 Buick, inspected, cleaned, and painted that I am willing to part with if that will help. Thanks,

Tom, Yes, it is covered in that fuzzy cloth material. This refers to the flocked fabric. Thanks,

ttt

Tom, I purchased directly from their online catalog as I found that easier to deal with. Choose whatever method you are comfortable with. With respect to the screws, I just used the lowest profile heads I had available at the time. I think they were panhead and as they were small screws it caused no problems. Thanks,

Tom, This is the same stuff that is used in my 1930 Buick. Both of these parts can be purchased at https://www.fillingstation.com/ In my '30 the metal channel was originally nailed to the wood. I chose to reattach with screws. Thanks,

Dr Harry, This motor is from a 1930 40 series (standard) car. The motor along with the bulk of the remainder of the chassis parts will only be applicable to the 40 series and not the 50 or 60 series (master) cars from that year. Thanks,

Dr Harry, That stamped serial number on the block indicates it is from a 1930 Buick. Post some pictures of the engine, especially the top driver side and we can tell you what series (standard or master) you have. Thanks,

The gas tank on my 1930 Buick had been repaired with POR-15 by a previous owner. That repair had failed leaving a horrible mess inside the tank. I sent it out to Renu in an effort to save it. They did an excellent job although they were rather expensive at around $600.

Am in need of a lower tail light lens for a 1930-31 Buick. This is a clear lens that is curved and sits in the bottom side of the tail light (not the face). Willing to purchase entire tail light as well. Thanks,

Nice to know the correct quantity as I have purchased 2 containers myself. I recently opened my steering box to discover it was bone dry. I have no idea how long the previous owner(s) have been running it that way, but not good in any case.

Termites had a field day in my car although it was never a field car. I had to replace about 40-50 percent of the wood due to bug damage which was challenging

Not sure about the 36 but in the 30 bodies by Fisher they used mostly ash for the structural and poplar for pieces that did not require as much strength in the interior. Poplar is a lot easier to drive an upholstery tack into. There is probably less poplar pieces in the car by 1936 as I believe that is the last or nearly the last year in which GM used wood as structural members in their cars. Thanks,

Brass looks quite nice when polished, but will oxidize rapidly. I see people in the antique furniture world ready to devalue a piece based on the fact that someone has polished the brass and removed all the patina. In point of fact it only takes a couple of years for the brass to regain any oxidation (patina) naturally that previously existed. For those who want the look of patina, there are chemicals that cause that to appear instantly on polished brass. I say polish away and enjoy the shiny brass look while it lasts.

No, that one is for dyslexic drivers...

Looks like a good restoration candidate Dwight. I see best of show at Pebble Beach in your future...

Yes, it is definitely a 1930 chassis. Thanks,

There is a wealth of information available on the forum with respect to questions that have been answered in the past. Use the search feature to access this. For your specific question take a look at the following thread: http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1931-ignition-lock-barrel-286875.html Hope this helps. Just out of curiosity, did you try a locksmith? This is a pretty simple lock to have a replacement key made for.

Do the two wire wheels include the locking rings that hold the tire in place? Thanks,

I always adjust photo size with Photoshop to around 500K or a bit less and they load just fine. Use whatever photo editing software you have available and you should be in good shape.

Beautiful car and I am a big fan of pre-war Buick Victoria Coupes.

I have a pair of front fenders from a 1930 - 60 series car. These are welled fenders for sidemounted spares. The passenger side fender is in excellent condition, in primer and ready for paint. The driver side fender is very straight but the fender well has been removed for another car. A new owner would need to construct or locate another well for that side. Would like $400 for the pair. These fenders will fit: 30 - 50 series 30 - 60 series They MAY fit: 31 - 80 series 31 - 90 series Fenders are located in Wake Forest , NC and the buyer will be responsible for shipping or they may be picked up at my home. Note: Will add photos later. Thanks,

I was born and raised in Alaska. Woke up one morning to find a young black bear sleeping on the hood of my car. I assume he was initially attracted to the heat from the warm engine. Had to leave for work so I went in the house and got a gun and then chased him away with a couple of random shots.

The problem I have is with squirrels storing their acorns in the smallest cavity of every vehicle I own that may be parked outside. Since I have a yard full of oak trees and an overabundance of squirrels, it is an ongoing issue.

Not sure what it is for however it definitely would not be for a Buick before 1932.