michaelod

Hi George, I am the person that bought your original motor about 5 years ago. Still have it although I have cannibalized some of the parts from it and used them on my engine as they were in better shape than the ones that I had. That engine has been extremely helpful to my restoration on more than one occasion. Just want you to know that I am very grateful you were willing to sell it as they are rare as hen's teeth anymore. Thanks again,

Don't believe that is the case. Best guess would be the restorer added sidemounts. On my 1930 60 series car with factory sidemounts (these were optional), a trunk and different bumper replace the rear mounted spare.

In this case I don't think it is a buyers premium, but rather a "good faith" deposit against the purchase price to help insure that the bidder is serious about the intended purchase. The amount is applied to the final purchase price of the car, and the balance due is debited by that amount.

Rare earth magnets are extremely strong and have a multitude of applications in auto restoration. I have used a series of them attached to my firewall behind the dash to hold wiring loom. Work great and do not require one to drill any additional non-stock holes for attachment points. If anything one needs to be careful they are not too strong for the application.

Here is a source with additional sizes including those needed for the oil filter lines (5/16?"). Can be purchased individually online without having to purchase more than needed: http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Threaded_Sleeve_Tube_Nut_p/36100.htm

As I understand it the problem originates when oil that is too thin a viscosity is used in the differential, thus working its way past the seals. In the Ford Model A crowd, 600W oil is the recommended solution: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/600-w-oil

Might be easier to have a mobile locksmith come out and make a key. You would need to get a new key blank for the Buick in advance as a locksmith will probably not carry that in the truck. Just another option as you will eventually need to take that ignition switch to a locksmith anyway.

Was there an air cleaner decal on the 1930 Buick? I have had several of these in what appeared to be original condition, but have never come across a decal on any of them. Not to say that it doesn't exist, just that I am unaware of one if it does.

This turned out to be a fraudulent listing as I suspected. it has been removed from eBay. Was a great price on a nice car but to good to be true.

Actually as I gave this ad a second look, I think there is a very good chance this is a bogus listing. Seller has zero feedback, along with contradictory information in the listing. Buick did not build a "1930 Series 40 Country Club Coupe" and a legitimate owner would generally know what they are selling. Not certain this is fraudulent yet, but it is suspicious at this point. I would recommend further investigation before placing a bid.

It is a bit hard to determine just what he is selling here. In the title of the listing it is described as a 40 series, whereas later he refers to the car as a 60 series model. Did the 40 series coupe come with a golf door as did the 60 series?

Looks like a Standard rather than the Master as it does not have the cooling pipe normally present on the head at the drivers side.

My personal experience has shown me that if one is attempting to put much effort into cleaning/painting the chassis, that the additional work of removing the body will save many hours of crawling around underneath the car and result in a much better job overall. Body removal is quite easy to do with only about 10 bolts or so to remove and the disconnection of a few cables and a little wiring. Painting the car is much easier as well, especially if you are planning on replacing the interior anyway. I never had much problem with scratching the new paint, just took my time and applied temporary padding and tape as needed. Although it sounds a bit counter-intuitive, disassembly can often be less work and will result in a better level of restoration.

For 1930 the plates are identical physically for 40, 50, and 60 series. This finish is different for the 50 and 60 series which are woodgrained. If the 1929 plate will work on the 1930, it will therefore fit any of the 1930 series other than the Marquette. Thanks,

I am posting a number of parts for a 1930 Buick today on eBay. Many of these will fit 1929 and 1931 models as well. If you need something for one of these cars take a look to see if the part is listed. Can be found under a search for "1930 Buick -fits". The "-fits" will get rid of most of the superfluous parts that you are probably not interested in. Thanks,

Dave, Sure, I will get some pictures of them for you. Thanks,

Yes, they are still available.

Michael, This one from Bob's uses a spin on filter inside but looks like the stock original on the outside: http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/oiling-system/oil-filter-canister-1929-30-of-290.html And if you are missing the original bracket that holds it on the firewall: http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/oiling-system/1929-30-oil-filter-bracket-.-ofb-290.html Thanks,

Michael, I think replacements for these would be non-existent due to the fact there are very few of these cars still around and thus not much demand to reproduce. Do you still have the originals for patterns? I can send photos if you don't. You may be able to substitute something in their place just for functionality.

Yes, I do have one. I have installed it and it seems to fit very well and looks 100% stock as all the differences are internal. Have not yet fired my engine as my car is still under restoration so I can't comment on performance just yet. Seems to totally eliminate the lubrication issue though. Thanks,

Here is a sure fire solution to any oil leakage problems but you will need to check to see if this will fit a 31'. The principle is the same in any case: http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/cooling-system/1929-30-all-ser.-ball-bearing-fan-hub-replacement.-.-fh-290.html

The 50 series has a longer wheelbase than the 40 series. The easiest way to distinguish the 50 and 60 series cars from the 40 series is the addition of a water coolant pipe on the upper driver side of the engine where it is attached to the head. The 40 series does not have a pipe present in that location. Thanks

I always find it interesting when the seller claims they will crush a car if they don't get their asking price, especially when the crush value is considerably less than what is being offered by potential buyers.

I am in need of a brake light switch for a 1930 Buick. I believe that a 1929 switch will work as well. Thanks,

If the '33 fuel pump is anything like the '30 which I have personally rebuilt (and I suspect they are very similar) there is no adjustment for the fuel pressure when rebuilding. It will pump exactly what it was designed to pump from the factory. Nothing more and nothing less. Thanks,