rageracing

Just to do 1 axle. I am getting the axles spray welded now so I can bring them back to the proper size.

Any good sources for the inner and outer axle seals and carrier gasket. Thanks

What a great idea. I thought it was plastic since it was that hard haha. Appreciate the picture when you get a chance.

I get a lot of window vibration when driving and it's nicking up the top edges of my door and inner frame. Does the 34 use a window sweeper along the doors edge or just some rubber. Also the outer window roller guide is shot...is there a source for new ones. Maybe some pics of how they should be would be great. I just rarely come across one around here to even compare. thanks

Thanks for the reply. I had a feeling it was not correct and since I am going to replace the generator I figured might as well make it as correct as I could.

Current setup

My car has an auto lite 3 brush unit with separate firewall mounted regulator. The armature is shot and I would like to make it correct. I am looking for the delicious 937-p but was wondering if it should have the regulator mounted right on the generator or is the firewall correct. Thanks

Is it possible to pull the damper and timing cover without pulling the motor or the whole front end off. It is really leaking bad now. Ever since the weather finally broke around here I've been leaking oil every where it seems. Thanks

Pretty sweet rig there

Thanks carbking. I guess the best thing is to keep and eye on it and change the gasket from time to time or if it starts dripping. At least its a 2 minute job with only 4 screws.

I have a down draft carb. C6B1 or something like that. Odd thing is I mainly run 87 non ethanol fuel. I am lucky a small local store called Market at Boyers Junction doesnt support ethansl fuels. Would this still be normal?

Changed my bowl gasket twice and they all where wet from fuel. Set the float at 7/64 and still have it. Put a new needle and seat in and installed a new 5/16 fuel line in from pump to carb since old one had a slight kink in it. Checked both surfaces and they are nice and flat too. Is this normal for the BB1 carbs? Been battling this for a while now.

Awesome photo. All 3 are sharp looking vehicles.

I seem to have a failing memory here. I am putting my horn button back on and can't remember if the cup on the spring goes up or down. If I remember the cup went against the isolator plug that sits against the steering wheel nut and the spring against the button itself but when I do that the spring seems to bind before I can tighten the horn button all the way down.

Thanks guys. That is exactly how it ended up. The spoke that is pointing straight up from the hub has the insignia on the back side. Lares had a yellow center mark painted on the box indicating center of the box and that is also aligned. My dad came up today and thought it looked off till he sat in the seat and was like thats yep..that feels right. The rebuilt box feels great. Cant wait to put the carb back on and take it for a drive.

I just installed my rebuilt steering box from lares corp and when I align the center marks up my steering wheels center spoke is facing up. I thought they face down from from factory. Is this correct?

My drivers side door latch assembly is really getting sloppy. The square shaft on the handle is in good shape but the latch assembly is starting to really egg out. Is there a way to sleeve or bushing this or should I try and find a replacement. Thanks

Looks like a 620768 is what it needs. The 626513 is also for a 34 pe but not in my vin number range. Looks like some of the dodge kc/kcl's also use the 620768.

Anyone know of a source that might have the worm and tube and correct spring washers. I have a 626513 worm and tube but that seems to be 1 inch too long. Maybe I should find a donor box that wasnt messed with like this one was.

I would like to find a different service book too since most of what you wrote there is not in the one I bought either.

Picked up another worm setup and its 1" longer then the one i am replacing so I am not sure what I am going to do with that. Looking at how it was installed there was 2 shims installed between the one spring washer, lower end of worm and cover plate. The shims are the same ones used on the trunnion shaft. Between the upper bearing and top of worm there was another, smaller in diameter, thrust washer that fit inside the bearing cage and you can see where the rollers where rubbing it. That doesnt belong from what I can tell. I think I need new spring washer set and I wonder if the shims need to be removed since they are not between the cover and housing.

Thanks

You wanna put 2 extra on my tab and ship them with the truck then.

How many do you have Dave?

Thanks ply33. The book I got from faxon says to remove shims for worm play and the service standard section will have specs but none is listed. I will show you what it says when I get out for some pictures. I bought a new worm and steering tube because you can see mine is worn through the case hardening. On the worm, there is a thrust washer and thin shim on each side of the tapered bearings. I wonder if someone took the spring washer out at one time. It was modified because it is full of red wheel bearing grease. I would think more of a semi fluid type is needed to keep those parts properly lubricated. I will take some pictures then.