rageracing

Yes

I am assuming there is a correct direction when reinstalling the king pin locks but I have seen them installed all over the place. What's right?

Some more pictures. It has a really nice cluster. The temp gauge works but was frozen in head. I was going to try and fix it like ply33 documents bit been busy putting my 34 back together. The temperary temp gauge I have to give back to my friend that lent it to me.

Thanks for the comparison. It's so hard to tell because the range is all over the place.

Thanks Keiser.

Just realized I put this in the wrong area. Should be in Plymouth not Dodge.

Thinking about selling the 33 PD because another project has come up I would like to allocate these funds for. Wondering what other people might value it at. It seems to be in original condition. I do not see anything missing either. No rust or body damage. Worst part is the motor is tired but still runs fairly well yet. It smokes especially going down hill. Othetwise great oil pressure and no overheating since cleaning up the radiator and water passages. Only thing not factory is the hidden voltage regulator in the generator. Interior is in tack but is starting to dry rot from age. Wiring is similar shape. My kids and I still drive it regularly but sometimes in this hobby we have to open up a parking space. Any thoughts/opinions would be appreciated.

Last thing for my motor is the seal that goes around the engine damper in the timing chain cover. Can't seem to find a replacement. Any ideas?

I forgot about Vintage Powerwagons. Real nice guy and I have bought 201 ci parts off him before. Worth a call. Also George Asche out of Pittsburgh. I have gotten both engine and trans parts from him before.

Parts can be tough. I am rebuilding my 34 PE motor as we speak. I bought complete piston and connecting rod assembly from Egge. I had a few rods that had cracks in them. In my experience proper bearings were the hardest to find since Egge only offers standard sizes. Also my original crank had many small cracks that showed up after the machine shop tried to straighten it. Good luck.

Hey Keiser. I am interested if still available. My one pickups grill looks like it got runover at some point.

From the picture the front axle looks "thin"...weren't the 33 tube axles bugger then the 34 I beam style making this a 34 or am I seeing something different there

That's some horsepower!

After running the car alittle last night, the clutch pedal does pull in alittle when I get off the gas and push out when on the throttle. I have the cable pulled all the way out of the dash. The cable is very tight so I might have to take it out and maybe soak it to loosen it up. I might do as ply33 said and block off the vacuum lines because the car does run like it has a vacuum leak. The free wheeling part of the trans is noisey when engaged but does work. Throwout bearing seems to be a little noisey when idling with the clutch out, how does do I grease that properly?

Here is a picture of it. I have not tried the auto clutch because I am not 100 percent sure how it all works yet. I noticed the oil marks on the motor when I put the voltage regulator on the generator that I read about on your website. Being fairly new to these flathead wasn't sure what to make of it

You are 100 percent correct. The 34 pe in my picture ran into some engine problems from the motor builder not doing some things correctly. The crank is being welded, straighten and reground. The picture is of my unrestored 33 pd I am putting into service so we can enjoy that till I have time to get the 34 back on the road.

This is what I saw when I put the voltage regulator on which seems to work great. Head gasket?

I will stop by a napa on my way home to get some 50 wt oil. I am installing the james peterson regulator on a 33 plymouth I just picked up that I saw your write up on and noticed the plug wires and side of the engine block was wet with oil. Its an unrestored car with 66,000 miles on the odometer. WIth it sitting there idling it was misting oily air and the filler cap was really wet. Probably hasn't been cleaned in a long time or do you think there may be an underlying problem?

Oil filler cap is fully oil saturated. Is the standard practice still was in gasoline and put a couple drops of motor oil in it. What oil is recommended. Thanks

I too have a 35 kcl but it is a second series.

Very neat

Good idea...I added some spring wrap to my order

Thats great. Thanks for all the help. I have a coil on order now to start. What kind of protection should I use on the line that runs through those formed holes on the frame?

Thanks. I ran them before but didn't do it correctly figuring one day I would. I have the multi year maintenance manual that is alright but not as descriptive as the 34 manual. I haven't seen one of those for sale yet.

Looking to redo the brake and fuel lines correctly. Was wondering what the correct routing and diameter to use. Any info would be appreciated.