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Everything posted by rageracing

  1. Getting ready to install my trans back and the car never had the grease cup and tube for the throwout bearing. Any idea where to get one at and how it was run. Finally making some progress.
  2. If you pull the pistons check closely around the wrist pin. My 34 had small cracks around a couple of them. I had a tough time finding oversized crank bearings so I sent my crank to Mile high and had it welded and reground to stock. Egge had stock sizes. I also got new rods and pistons from them too.
  3. I made a collar with a thick base and used a threaded rod that fit down through the guide. I put a nut and jam nut on the bottom and used a hardened thrust washer and nut on top. As I tightened the top nut it pulled the guide up and out. Ply33 is correct in the way the service book tells you to remove them. They use the same guides but the exhaust is orientated reversed from the intake.
  4. You can pull the guides in the car just have to make a puller or find an old one for sale. The issue is grinding the hardened exhaust valve seats to make sure they are perfectly aligned with the guides. Not sure if that can be done in the car. Or rebuild that spare motor and swap them out in a couple hours.
  5. 20160615_135743_001.mp4 Finally some run time!
  6. The oil smoke is mostly from worn valve guides. That is why it's worse on de-acceleration because the pistons are pulling vacuum and sucking oil up past the valves. The knocking is prolly in the transmission input shaft bushing. When you hear that noise stay on the gas and push the clutch in and it goes away as yhr motor revs without noise. Also bearing knocks are usually pronounced with light to no load on the engine allowing things to move and knock. There is offset load placed in the crank during acceleration that helps keep the play out of the bearings. The oil misting is probably ring blow by. Sometimes you can hold your hand over the fill tube and feel the pulsing as the engine runs.
  7. Haha I was waiting for someone to point that out
  8. Yeah the front engine support arm is blocking that part..no pun intended ha
  9. rageracing

    201 rebuild

    Getting close to firing it!
  10. I am assuming there is a correct direction when reinstalling the king pin locks but I have seen them installed all over the place. What's right?
  11. Some more pictures. It has a really nice cluster. The temp gauge works but was frozen in head. I was going to try and fix it like ply33 documents bit been busy putting my 34 back together. The temperary temp gauge I have to give back to my friend that lent it to me.
  12. Thanks for the comparison. It's so hard to tell because the range is all over the place.
  13. Just realized I put this in the wrong area. Should be in Plymouth not Dodge.
  14. Thinking about selling the 33 PD because another project has come up I would like to allocate these funds for. Wondering what other people might value it at. It seems to be in original condition. I do not see anything missing either. No rust or body damage. Worst part is the motor is tired but still runs fairly well yet. It smokes especially going down hill. Othetwise great oil pressure and no overheating since cleaning up the radiator and water passages. Only thing not factory is the hidden voltage regulator in the generator. Interior is in tack but is starting to dry rot from age. Wiring is similar shape. My kids and I still drive it regularly but sometimes in this hobby we have to open up a parking space. Any thoughts/opinions would be appreciated.
  15. Last thing for my motor is the seal that goes around the engine damper in the timing chain cover. Can't seem to find a replacement. Any ideas?
  16. I forgot about Vintage Powerwagons. Real nice guy and I have bought 201 ci parts off him before. Worth a call. Also George Asche out of Pittsburgh. I have gotten both engine and trans parts from him before.
  17. Parts can be tough. I am rebuilding my 34 PE motor as we speak. I bought complete piston and connecting rod assembly from Egge. I had a few rods that had cracks in them. In my experience proper bearings were the hardest to find since Egge only offers standard sizes. Also my original crank had many small cracks that showed up after the machine shop tried to straighten it. Good luck.
  18. Hey Keiser. I am interested if still available. My one pickups grill looks like it got runover at some point.
  19. From the picture the front axle looks "thin"...weren't the 33 tube axles bugger then the 34 I beam style making this a 34 or am I seeing something different there
  20. After running the car alittle last night, the clutch pedal does pull in alittle when I get off the gas and push out when on the throttle. I have the cable pulled all the way out of the dash. The cable is very tight so I might have to take it out and maybe soak it to loosen it up. I might do as ply33 said and block off the vacuum lines because the car does run like it has a vacuum leak. The free wheeling part of the trans is noisey when engaged but does work. Throwout bearing seems to be a little noisey when idling with the clutch out, how does do I grease that properly?
  21. Here is a picture of it. I have not tried the auto clutch because I am not 100 percent sure how it all works yet. I noticed the oil marks on the motor when I put the voltage regulator on the generator that I read about on your website. Being fairly new to these flathead wasn't sure what to make of it