Fred44676

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Everything posted by Fred44676

  1. That is a tractor headlight commonly installed by dealers on Ford 9n and 2n style tractors and similar Furguson tractors of the 40's and early 50's. I have bought several at swap meets and auctions. It would probably sell best on Ebay.
  2. 75-78 Ford Granada. Google has pictures. I owned a Granada and it did look familiar.
  3. Thank you Rusty and John for the additional information. When swapping in a used motor, I usually do lay out all the parts that I have two of, and use the better of the two. I will watch for the distributor length. You have a good point about the rings. Years ago and I mean MANY years ago I used to always put new rings in my Austin Healey motors on the standard original pistons in a honed only block. Cost me about $14 plus gaskets. Rings, bearings, and an overhaul gasket set was less than $50.00 from J.C. Whitney. (spring of 1967} Fred
  4. Thank you, this is what I needed to know. I thought that this swap may have been popular at one time to get the additional power. I have both starters so I will compare them. I expected to have to use the '41 flywheel and clutch. Actually, the hood and front clip were unbolted back in 1973 when I pulled the original motor. I intended to do the motor, clean up a few dents and paint the fenders back then but the car has been in the same dry storage for 45 years. I am going to need to move the car soon so I may move it into my shop as a winter project. You are absolutely right about inspecting the motor. At the very least, I will pull the head, grind the valves and check the bearings etc. before I detail the motor for installation. It has been a lot of years but I still remember the Plymouth even with the small motor, being a delight to drive. Fred
  5. Thank you for the offer. I should have mentioned I am in north central Ohio near Mansfield. At this time I doubt it would be cost effective to use your motor though if I were closer it would be tempting. My '41 Plymouth motor is definitely rebuildable as the crank is not badly hurt but if I cannot use my Desoto motor I would probably be able to chase down another running Plymouth or Dodge motor here in Ohio.
  6. Thanks for the reply. It sounds like the Dodge Army Truck was designed to use either motor. I doubt if the '41 Plymouth frame has the extra motor mount holes already there but it might be simple to add new holes. The radiator/fan/water pump clearance could be a bigger problem if the front sheetmetal would make moving the radiator forward difficult. That is why I am curious if anyone has already made or tried to make a similar swap. I may watch for a similar stock Plymouth at Hershey and make some measurements of the radiator/fan area.
  7. I have the opposite problem to the earlier Engine Swaps post about the dodge motor. I have a decent original '41 Plymouth 4-door with a spun bearing. The motor has been apart for 40 years and is quite rusty. A couple of years ago, I bought the entire driveline out of what I remember was a running, low mileage '48 Desoto 4-door that was being streetrodded. After reading the above post, I measured both motors and indeed the Desoto motor is longer than the Plymouth motor. My question is how difficult is it to put the longer '48 Desoto motor into my '41 Plymouth? The Desoto drivetrain is also fluid drive if that makes a difference. I have everything and I mean everything for the '48 motor including the radiator. transmission and driveshaft. Has anyone done this or a similar swap and has pointers? I want to swap just the motors, not the transmissions. The '41 Plymouth 4-doors are just not valuable enough to justify a complete rebuild of the original motor. I would be doing the work myself and this is not my first engine swap but I have little experience with forties Chrysler products.
  8. Back in the late 50's and early 60's, dad would save a few dollars by buying new cars with blackwall tires. My job was to install the portawalls. Definitely use the rubber hammer technique or they will not lay flat. Never use tire lubricant when installing them or they won't stay where you put them. Count on doing a couple of them multiple times before they look right when you air up the tire. They look better on bias ply tires with less bulge at the bottom. Some tire sidewalls are more "friendly" to them than others. I remember also putting the narrow wall versions over older factory wide whites to look more modern in about 1961. There were even red line versions for the "performance look" on your 1955 Ford four door that you drove to high school.
  9. Studebaker Lark. Google for images.
  10. Just to be clear, I am also in Ohio. Last week when I registered my '55 Ford, I asked for "antique vehicle" plates. The person behind the counter said, " You mean 'historical vehicle' plates?". A vehicle needs to be 25 years old to be considered " historical" in Ohio and receive special plates etc. "Antique" is still open to interpretation.
  11. Those are 1963 Ford Galaxie and Fairlane. I always liked them better than the '64 small caps.
  12. Google "Willys Surrey" for pictures of your wheel cover on the car.
  13. I have a '57 Sweptside I would consider selling. I have had it for nearly 40 years but cannot seem to get it to the top of my project list. It is very stock and mostly original. It has the large rear window, 315 V8 with three speed stick. Last started and driven about three years ago. In dry storage. Good Ohio title. It needs complete restoration including much rust repair but all the difficult, often impossible to find Sweptside parts are there including a factory radio and heater. I would consider selling it, as is, for $8,500. The truck is located in Ohio, zip code 44676. The picture makes it look better than it is but it is one of the few collector trucks that you can get most of your restoration costs back at resale. Please PM me if you want more information and or pictures. Thanks, Fred44676
  14. This is called a "police" rally cap. They were used on police cars in the late '60s. There are many pictures on Google.
  15. With regards to the floppy swivel on your rear view mirror, I have had good luck with first adjustingthe mirror to the desired position then applying a couple of drops of "Locktite" thread locker to the swivel. The negative is that if someone tries to readjust it or it gets bumped, it breaks free and more Locktite must be applied. The good is that nothing is permanent or damaged if a better solution comes along.
  16. I put the serial# (84301288) of my '57 Sweptside into the decoder and it gave me the following message: "Serial Number 84301288 has a sequence number of 01288 that is out of range or is a serial number not recognized by this decoder." Looking at the sheets on the website for 1957, 100 series, 8 cylinder implies that the number is logical but just not "recognized". Fred Long
  17. Those are excellent videos! I too have a '41 Plymouth, a 4 door, that I traded a '64 Pontiac Tempest convertible for back in 1971. It is still in dry storage waiting to be worked on after a rod bearing spun back in 1976. My car is extremely original with only the four fenders having been repainted at some time and the engine is out and apart. If you need any help with any specific detail as to how it was done originally, I would be glad to help if I can. Looking forward to seeing more of your progress. Got to love a deadline!
  18. This is the best picture I have found of this style of truck. This is the exact cab, grille, and fenders that are on my firetruck. I apologise to the owner of this truck as I have forgotten where I found this picture on the internet and cannot give proper credit.
  19. I will be selling a low mileage '34 Dodge based firetruck in similar condition but very complete. Same chassis but I am not sure about the wheelbase. Original fenders, splash aprons, running boards, headlights, doors, most trim pieces. Grille shell has been cut at bottom for front pump. No glass, no top insert, no upholstery. Last driven in about 1985. Good Ohio title. My truck would make a good parts truck for yours or yours would make a good parts truck for mine. I have too many projects ahead of this one and am afraid I will never get to it. It is stored inside in my barn but will have to be moved soon. I am asking $2500 for it with the American LaFrance body but would consider less for just the chassis. It is not the original firetruck body for this truck. My truck has always been a firetruck but I bought a different body for it (from a '34 Ford firetruck) back in the '80s. If you are at all interested in my truck please contact me. Location is everything as I do not own trailers big enough to transport it. I am in north central Ohio. You do not say in your ad where you are located. It is important for these larger items. Thank you Fred Long
  20. I have listed a rare 1948 Hudson dealer promo on Ebay. I had thought that someday I would own a full size stepdown but that is probably not going to happen. Too many cars is enough. The following is my Ebay description: My grandfather bought this at an auction in Wayne county, Ohio in the early 1970's. I do not know any of its previous history. I have had it on a shelf in my office for over 30 years. This is a rather rare dealer promo of the 1948 Hudson. From what I have been able to determine, these highly detailed models were created to help salespeople explain the new features of the postwar Hudson automobiles. This model is in overall good condition for its age. It is large, nearly 13" in length. The color is excellent with a few scratches in the plastic and some wear to the painted areas. There are two problems that are not readily evident in the photos. One, the dashboard assembly has come detached from the cowl and is loose inside the car. The second is the hood and fender assembly has come unglued on the passenger side where it meets the windshield and passenger door area. You can see the misalignment with the door if you look closely at the photographs. If you own a Hudson or are a collector of rare dealer promos, this would make a wonderful addition to your collection. If you would additional photos of a specific detail please email. To see this listing on Ebay, please search for listing number 110644597980 . If you would like me to send additional pictures directly to you, please email me at fred44676@aol.com .
  21. I don't know where they're made, but the last coil I bought for my front distributor "47 Ford 2N came from Rural King. I think Tractor Supply carries them too. I know the coil is over five years old now and the tractor starts and runs great on 6vt. The coils seem to last until I leave the key on overnight. That is usually after the tractor runs out of gas or I stall it when it is stuck in the snow. Tip: unbolt the entire distributor and clamp in a vise on the workbench when installing and adjusting new points and rotor. WAY easier than installing the points with a mirror.
  22. Yes, see the attached photo courtesy of Bill Hirsch website of a '37-'38 hubcap.
  23. It is a '38 Chevy (maybe '37 too) horn button for the deluxe "Banjo" style steering wheel. I have one like it on a steering wheel in my spare parts.
  24. Yep, Mercury. I have a similar hubcap hanging on my office wall above my computer with that logo and the Mercury script embossed directly above it.