kgreen

Thom, that is what Anderson’s book says and appear to match what I have. 1/8 between the stripes and a 1/8-in center stripe. My outer stripes are 1/16th inch wide.

I hired a pinstriper that I met at a custom car show using this detail which credit is found in the image below. My wheels at 15-inch and the drawing specifically says not to use it for this size wheel. I verified the dimensions on an existing 15-in wheel that I had that was in good shape. The dimension that varied was the approximate distance from the seam as noted.

You have a couple areas on the body with wood as well as the front seat. A wood buck is located on the convertible top frame in the area behind the door glass. The weather strip retainer is mounted to this buck and seals the rear portion of the glass when the top is in the up position. Here's my first several attempts to make one: I used yellow pine and made the draft block like this: The buck is curved (angled) side to side on the narrow edge so the door can be closed to meet the weather strip without binding the glass. It is also curved as is obvious in the photo at the top edge as the door glass is curved. I found that the band saw was the most productive tool, followed by a belt sander (that I wish I had upgraded). I initially tried using templates, but found that fitting and sculpting my draft block was the best method. There a couple easy pieces to make that fit on each side of the rear seat to hold the curved panel used to cover the top actuators. The seat back on the rear seat is attached to a wood panel and of course the trunk shelf is wood.

Tires ordered today, expect them in next week. Thinking I'd mount them and let a tire shop balance them. The wheels and tires currently on my car are 1941 16-inch "paired" with 20-50 year old Montgomery Ward retreads. I go them from Universal tire which is a sister company to Coker Tire. Contrary to drivability reviews but consistent with judging rules, I got bias ply. Now let's hope the story's told on this forum about lousy tubes and faulty tires aren't heading my way.

But then, why are they allowed on pre-1946 cars?

Curious, why are fuel pumps point deductible item on post 1946 cars? Language from judging manual: "Added on fuel pumps (electric or mechanical) which replace or supplement the original type pump or fuel supply device on 1946 and later vehicles are considered non-authentic and will receive the maximum deduction. Added on fuel pumps on pre-1946 vehicles should be located out of view and installed in a workmanlike manner."

Frank, thanks for your help rekeying all my locks. I had one more lock to change and tried calling around where I live. Still trying to see if anyone local can help before I bug you again.

The Green's will be there, sans Buick as it will be in for upholstery. I'm bringing sharp eyes though, to find the one part that I'm missing.

I’ve recently been struggling with a vacuum leak on a pneumatic convertible top mechanism. The vacuum cylinder is about 4 in dia by 18-20 in in length. That’s a good amount of vacuum loss when operating the top. It is not a closed system. The vacuum is applied to one or the other side of the cylinders position. Air from the opposite side of the piston is relieved through the valve.

Yes, but Pete is still around and better late than never was my view.

I found the bead breaker part of the Take-Off Tool, the large C-shaped device, in a flea market years ago. That would be parts T-129, 113, 114 and 130. It did not have the handle so I put a steel pipe in the threads. I've used it many times to break beads, then use the old hand techniques to get the old tire off a rim and a new tire installed. That effort can raise a sweat. Would be nice to have the rest of the machine, but then garage space?

Yup, and finally though I have a long way to go to wrap up details and get an interior. I might have overposted this topic, but I'm super excited by the progress.

No, looks like a dirty spot on the shaft. The shaft and the guide are not a close fit suggesting that a seal would or should go there. The valve has to perform two functions when either lifting or lowering the top. Pull vacuum on one side of the cylinder piston and relieve air from the opposite side of the piston. I'm beginning to wonder if the whole system is closed loop?

It took me an afternoon to clean up the seat frame and track. Seems that the the seat pivot point in the center of the seat commonly breaks. I have a list of things to start correcting including the brakes as the junction block is leaking. Still not keen on the engine operation, idling high and it has not smoothed out. Need to clean up and paint the air cleaner. Windshield wipers work great, I didn't realize that they are a single speed wiper. Oil spatter on the windshield got spread out nicely. Still have the trunk wood to finish as well. One of the parts cars had the wood for a pattern, but physical damage from drywood termites while the car was in South Florida converted much of the interior of the wood into dust. I finished the heater, but the defroster still needs cleaning and painting. Other than the junction block for the brakes, I don't see any other leaks worth fussing over. I have body color wheels with the pin stripes already painted. The wheel shields are safely tucked away for later. I'll get white wall tires as they were standard issue on this model car. Here's the dirty mechanics wave and the wife who has yet to learn how much she spent on this car.