67 Riviera master cylinder

[tim63riv]

Hello everyone!

I have a 67 Riviera master cylinder in my 63 Riviera to provide me with a dual system. When I got the car running this spring, I noticed the rear resevior(?) of the master by the booster was empty. Filled it up again and had good pedal but there must be a leaky seal in the back of the master cylinder as the chamber is low again! My question is, I have a master with a bolt on cover, not a bale. It that a Delco or Bendix master cylinder? It has performed flawlessly for over a decade and I would like to make sure that I replace it with the correct one! (I guess as correct as a 67 master on a 63 can be!)

Thanks,

Tim McCluskey

[Seafoam65]

             If the rear of the master cylinder is leaking you will be able to see it has been leaking if you unbolt it from the booster and look behind it.

If it is not wet back there you probably have leaking rear wheel cylinders. If you use silicone brake fluid instead of DOT 3, you will find that your

brake hydraulics will last much much longer on a car that isn't driven every day. silicone fluid is the DOT 5 fluid.

[PWB]

1 hour ago, tim63riv said:

 It that a Delco or Bendix master cylinder? It has performed flawlessly for over a decade and I would like to make sure that I replace it with the correct one! (I guess as correct as a 67 master on a 63 can be!)

Thanks,

Tim McCluskey

Either Bendix or Morraine systems would/could be utilized for '67. The curtains should match the drapes. (Master/Booster)

The small expense for a new master and thorough inspection for downstream leaks would be the most safe approach.

Good to see the superior tech. of second gen. helping the first.

Wink

[steelman]

35 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:

             If you use silicone brake fluid instead of DOT 3, you will find that your

brake hydraulics will last much much longer on a car that isn't driven every day. silicone fluid is the DOT 5 fluid.

A quick add to Winston's post. DOT 3 and DOT 5 brake fluids do not mix. You will need to completely remove the old DOT 3 fluid from your lines and replace with the new DOT 5. You can't just add DOT 5 to the DOT 3 in there, you have to start fresh when using DOT 5.

[tim63riv]

Guys,

Thanks for your input. I am using the stock OEM 63 booster.

Tim

 

 

[PWB]

2 hours ago, tim63riv said:

Guys,

Thanks for your input. I am using the stock OEM 63 booster.

Tim

 

 

Tim

Perhaps coincidence - my prior was a bolt on and it left evidence of years leakage. A bale version should work. I would not get a overhauled one.

 

[1965rivgs]

7 hours ago, tim63riv said:

Hello everyone!

I have a 67 Riviera master cylinder in my 63 Riviera to provide me with a dual system. When I got the car running this spring, I noticed the rear resevior(?) of the master by the booster was empty. Filled it up again and had good pedal but there must be a leaky seal in the back of the master cylinder as the chamber is low again! My question is, I have a master with a bolt on cover, not a bale. It that a Delco or Bendix master cylinder? It has performed flawlessly for over a decade and I would like to make sure that I replace it with the correct one! (I guess as correct as a 67 master on a 63 can be!)

Thanks,

Tim McCluskey

Hi Tim,

  In spite of the comprehensive nature of the `67 shop manual all master cylinder illustrations show a bail type cover. However, it is obvious the Delco/Morraine has the shallow hole in the piston bore and the Bendix has the deep hole. Also, on the original `67  BENDIX casting, there is a "piston stop" which looks like a hex head  bolt on the bottom of the master casting. Hope this helps,

  Tom

[tim63riv]

Tom,

Thank you very much! Seems either master cylinder is readily available, just wanted to make sure of what I have before I order one up. Hope all is well with you and your family!

Take care,

Tim

[JZRIV]

Tim,

I would suggest buying a new (not rebuilt) master as quality of reman's has been spotty both out of the box and a couple years down the road. Pay up for the best as long as it means quality is higher.

IMO the longest lasting option is to send out an original to Apple Hydraulics or White Post and have it sleeved with stainless or brass. This is all I install on any old car I plan to keep or drive. I've never seen a bolted cover on a 67.

[1965rivgs]

8 hours ago, JZRIV said:

Tim,

I would suggest buying a new (not rebuilt) master as quality of reman's has been spotty both out of the box and a couple years down the road. Pay up for the best as long as it means quality is higher.

IMO the longest lasting option is to send out an original to Apple Hydraulics or White Post and have it sleeved with stainless or brass. This is all I install on any old car I plan to keep or drive. I've never seen a bolted cover on a 67.

The last time I did a dual master conversion on a first gen I ordered a `67 master and the master came with a bolt on cover. First I had ever seen but I assumed it was original and the bail came later...maybe not? But I have seen one.

  Tom

[KongaMan]

IIRC, the Bendix booster has a screw-on top and the Moraine has a bale.  It's also the Moraine with the shallow hole. And (I think) all the disc jobs used Moraine masters.  It's also important not to get the master for a disc system.  FWIW, I found two new Moraine drum/drum masters: Raybestos MC36234 ($81.79 from RockAuto, also at Amazon and elswhere) and Duralast NM1489 ($63.99 from AutoZone).  There are several remans out there, but you don't save much.

[rocky5517]

Tim

Hope this pix help. I sent MC to White Post for rebuild, sent Vac booster to Booster Dewey for same. Dewey is good- I told him I wanted vac booster done in same (gold) finish as original. He said "Don't forget the hood latch- that was gold too". I also sent him the MC cover so that they all matched. Am very happy with how they came out. I hate those re=plated MC covers- they look wrong to me. The process of how he re-coated them can best be explained by Dewey of Dewey Boosters - see his ad in the Review.