My Studebaker Is back together thanks to Jerry Kurtz

Jerry fixed the trunk handle for me. That had me very upset. I know its a hard to find a another nice one. Now to get the overdrive in the car. I know a man that can make the overdrive wiring. He does overdrives and might not sell the wiring separate. Now to fix the heater. When I open the control valve it leaks at the heater under the seat. This Studebaker is a bit of a money pit so far. But in the long run its going to be a super car down the road.

Ken,

The harness for overdrive is simplicity itself. Save yourself $100 and make it yourself. Or...you know Jerry's specialty is the overdrive transmissions don't you? He's already done your trunk handle. Have you thought to ask him about the OD harness?

Call Rhode Island Wiring at 800 241 1955.

They have patterns for most.

Robert Kapteyn

Agree with Robert about RI Wiring. They have done two complete wiring harnesses for me and a number of smaller jobs. Always first class, always timely, reasonable cost.

Ken When I see you on the Glidden tour I will show you how to wire the overdrive. Jerry Kurtz

Today we went on a little tour 110 miles through the hills of West Virginia the roughest roads one could travel. The gas well trucks has got the roads in bad shape. The 39 tried to vapor lock a couple of times but she kept going. I need to install a electric fuel pump it looks like. I also heard a pecking noise when pulling the steep hills. We will see about that.

Retard the timing a little and see if the knock goes away.

If it does it is because of bad gas.

Robert Kapteyn

Great thought RBK. Another idea is try a higher octane gas. If I try to use 85 or 87 in my modern Chevy pickup- big "knock". Use 91- no problem!

Hmmm. Normally knocking or pinking means the octane is too HIGH. The Owner's Guide says your car "will perform satisfactorily with 70-octane fuel". Thus you should use the lowest octane available and retard the ignition until ithe pinking stops. If you allow it to continue knocking you can burn a hole in a piston.

Knocking is caused by pre-ignition. Ask the 'web about it! It can also be caused by low octane fuel in a high compression engine, as our friend above found.

Before modifying it by adding a modern fuel pump, try turning the fuel pump away from the exhaust manifold and routing the fuel lines further away from the manifold. Make sure the pump is working properly with correct pressure on the delivery side. If your fuel line goes down anywhere between the pump and carb, you can get an air lock in the high point, so make sure the line only goes up. Is the wee insulator block still under the carburettor? Is the fan the correct diameter, with uniform pitch and not slipping? If the engine bay has pans around the base between the engine and chassis, make sure they are there - they make sure the air goes past the engine and cools it.

If you use the lowest octane fuel you can get, the exhaust manifold should also be a bit cooler than with higher octane fuel.

Use a lower octane rated fuel to stop pinging????? That goes against everything I have ever read on the subject.

''Detonation can be prevented by any or all of the following techniques:

• the use of a fuel with high octane rating, which increases the combustion temperature of the fuel and reduces the proclivity to detonate;
  
• enriching the air–fuel ratio which alters the chemical reactions during combustion, reduces the combustion temperature and increases the margin above detonation;
  
• reducing peak cylinder pressure by decreasing the engine revolutions (e.g., shifting to a higher gear, there is also evidence that knock occurs more easily at high rpm than low regardless of other factors)
  
• decreasing the manifold pressure by reducing the throttle opening, boost pressure or
  
• reducing the load on the engine.''
  
• 
  
• I did ask the web about it ... and I believe that you were misinformed Spinneyhill.
  

Hmmm. That's interesting. My experience comes from a 1930-ish flat-head four with an updraft carb., mounted in a boat. The owner was using the highest octane fuel he could get and it was knocking all the time, really badly. After a change to the lowest octane fuel, it didn't knock any more. This was 15+ years ago in Vermont.

It would be interesting to see how the timing compares to the factory setting.

Pinging or detonation is caused by an abnormal flame front travel, basicly an uncontrolled explosion. It should not be confused with "pre-ignition" which can be caused by a hot spot in the combustion chamber igniting the fuel charge before the plug delivers the spark. This can be caused by a carbon build up or even localized overheating which maintains a heat source capable of igniting the fuel charge prematurely.

It not spark knock so far we know it in the rear of the motor or loose flywheel maybe throw out bearing. When I get back from the Glidden tour next week will pull the tranny and check the flywheel and throw-out bearing. Then put in the overdrive transmission. Then push the car in the car trailer to take to have a drive shaft made. No noise when start up cold and no knock at idle only on load when warmed up. Could be wristpin or main just not sure yet. I got all winter to find it. I want to thank all of you for the information you have gave me. I would be lost without you.