Changing Spark Plugs

After finally solving the mystery of the stuck at 0 speedometer, I can finally move on to other issues on my 88 Reatta. The first thing I want to tackle are new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Does anyone have a link to a resource thatcould help me get these changed? The front Ines seem easy enough but the back ones look like they require a bit of creativity so any tips would be nice.

Also, what brand of wires and plugs should I get and from where? I appreciate the help!

They aren't too bad to get to. All you need area small assortment of extensions and an elbow. If you wear mechanic gloves you won't leave small pieces of your hands on the firewall. Remember to reuse the heat shields that are on the original plug wires. I have found these discarded on some of my Reattas over the years. Make sure you get the wires well seated on the plug. As for plugs and wires, I like AC Delco which are available at the Reatta Store.

I change the rear plugs from under the car. I loosen the cradle bolts and lower the engine a half inch or so. Plenty of room to work with normal tools!!!

I change the rear plugs from under the car. I loosen the cradle bolts and lower the engine a half inch or so. Plenty of room to work with normal [ATTACH=CONFIG]266132[/ATTACH]tools!!!

Yep, when I first acquired my '89 a little over a year ago I took it to my trusted corner mechanic for some new plugs and wires.

His discovered my need for new cradle bushings when he began that procedure to change out the rears.

Luckily I was able to buy a complete set of bushings off a 12K wreck and was back in business real quick.

Hmm I think there is an ac delco store down the street from where I live. I definitely think I will invest in some gloves because I can afford to scar my knuckles anymore haha.

Do you really think its worth the extra effort of lowering the engine?

A ratchet like the one shown below works well.

Also, be aware that when removing the #6 plug, the wrench/socket will contact or be close to the top of the O2 sensor.

Take care when in that area or remove the O2 sensor for ease of access to the plug. There's the possibility of opening up another can of worms when removing the sensor. Trying to remove it brings it's own set of problems. Might be a good time to change it out since you'll be working that area anyway.

John F.

Do you really think its worth the extra effort of lowering the engine?

NO!

i did the "rears" similar to how "ol yeller" did it - with socket extensions and at least one universal "elbow". due to my back problems, i found it easier to "crawl" into the (cold) engine bay to get good angles to attack the job.

i used AC Delco #14 platinum plugs - gap at .045... re: the wires - i believe wires are different part #'s for the different model years.

unless you need the plugs/wires "now", i'd pick them up at "The Reatta Store" for a better price...

EDIT: http://thereattastore.com/ignition-system-parts-for-your-buick-reatta/

If a couple of old codgers like Kerry, John, and me can do it, it can't be that difficult. I have a nice set of fender covers so I didn't mind crawling atop the engine to get a good angle. John brings up a good point about the O2 sensor. It is very cheap and very easy to replace if you have the right socket. The correct socket is around $10. I'd replace that as a good maintenance item, in fact, I did.

Mich-55 !?1 How much "effort" does it take to loosen six bolts?? When you have room to work----removing plugs is very easy. Do you have a rust issue?

How is the effort turning 5 lug bolts a whole lot different than turning 6 cradle bolts?

Mich-55 !?1 How much "effort" does it take to loosen six bolts?? When you have room to work----removing plugs is very easy. Do y[ATTACH=CONFIG]266156[/ATTACH]ou have a rust issue?

I feel the same about lowering the engine just to replace spark plugs. If I make a mistake I could be looking at a hell of a lot more work.

I have an elbow and extension that came with my ratchet. Would that be enough or should I get another specific one? Also, what is the size of socket that I need to remove the O2 sensor? I know what they look like but I want to make sure I get the correct size.

Are there any other maintenance items I should look at replacing while I'm at it?

If I had a lift like the one shown in the photo I might consider lowering the cradle. Since I don't have a lift, and I would have to try to lower the cradle while laying on my back on the garage floor, lowering the cradle would be a last ditch effort if I couldn't get a spark plug out from the top.

Sometimes on front wheel drive cars it helps to disconnect the dogbone and pull the engine forward with a bar to get some extra clearance in the rear. I can't remember if I did that on my Reatta when I changed the spark plugs or not. It's been about 4-5 years since I changed the spark plugs in it.

Rules,

I get that you are showing us your hanger-style garage and hydraulic lift installed with a rust free Reatta sitting on it but, I think that you need to stop sampling your crop if you are really suggesting that the average Reatta owner lower the engine just to change out the rear plugs when it's not that big a deal to begin with.

To answer your question about my having a "rust issue". Check out this link.

Do you seriously think someone should go though all this to change the spark plugs?

It is not unusual for cars from the Great Lakes area through the New England states to have issues such as this.

It's called the "Rust Belt" for a reason.

John F.

Marcel,

Just to be clear. It is not necessary to remove the O2 sensor. I will make it easier to remove #6 plug but it can be done without removing the sensor.

My mention of it was just cautionary in nature. If you're not careful, it can be damaged while trying to remove plug #6.

If you choose to remove the O2. "hose" the threaded area with PB Blaster Liquid Wrench or some other rust breaker/dissolver fluid.

Some say warming the engine a bit helps with removal of the O2 but you don't want to go to operating temp and have to work on a hot engine either.

The size of the O2 socket is 7/8". (See photo below) The socket has a cut-out for the pigtail (wire). That's the only thing that separates it from another deep-well socket. I've found that a long extension, attached to the socket, that allows a breaker bar clearance over the top of the engine works well.

You'll need the leverage this provides to break the sensor free. Anything less and you'll be frustrated.

New O2 sensors usually come with anti-seize applied to the threads already. If for some reason it doesn't or you choose to reuse the O2 sensor you removed, you need to apply anti-seize to the threads before installation. Try not to get Anti-seize on the element that goes into the exhaust pipe. I recommend a torque wrench to install, well, everything. The torque value for the O2 sensor is 31 Foot pounds.

20 ft/lbs for the spark plugs.

John F.

I will decide whether or not to replace it based on the price I find. I don't mind getting the special socket because it seems to work for other O2 sensors. It seems like a good idea to replace it so that I don't accidentally damage it and just to be safe. Thank you for providing the torque values, I'm always looking for an excuse to use the torque wrench haha.

the pic shows the ratchet, extensions and "elbow" (along with a socket) that i used. the only other thing i could think of was a little dab of dielectric grease in the wires where they attach to the plugs/coil pack...

i had just replaced my O2 sensor a couple of months prior to the new wires/plugs, so i didn't pull the sensor. i ass-u-me you don't know when (or if) it has been replaced, so i'd go ahead and replace it "while you are there". i didn't warm up the engine, but i did use a liberal amount of PB Blaster, waited around an hour then used the tools John mentioned to remove it.

hope this helps!

looks like we were typing at the same time...

the O2 sensor should be less than $20 at a flaps if you need it "now". $13.66 thru "The Reatta Store". i had to do mine "now" and picked up the Bosch #12014 at a flaps...

... Sometimes on front wheel drive cars it helps to disconnect the dogbone and pull the engine forward with a bar to get some extra clearance in the rear. I can't remember if I did that on my Reatta when I changed the spark plugs or not. It's been about 4-5 years since I changed the spark plugs in it.

My old '90 Regal had the rotatable engine. There was even a special bolt hole in one of the dogbones to lock it in the rotated state. It only rotated an inch or two, but made it really easy to get at the alternator, rear plugs, and O2 sensor. Would be nice if it were possible with the Reatta, but I've not seen anyone document it here.

I too call shenanigans on RulesReattas recommendation to lower the cradle. Guess not only is the air thinner in CO but the gravitational pull is less too?

If you don't know the history of the O2 sensor definitely change it too. Different brands are different sizes. Some can make getting at plug 6 almost impossible, so I also recommend either the Delco or Bosch ones.