herm111

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About herm111

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    Kohnke Rebabbitting

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    KohnkeRebabbittingService.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Clare, Iowa
  • Interests:
    cars, tractors.

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  1. herm111

    Question about a re-babbitting process

    Mr. JV, I haven't had time to play on the computer for a while. Ok, lets start with cam bearings. We do build cam bearings, as in your old ones. We spin pour them, at 1200 RPM's, and machine them about .100-00 under the cam size, for them to be align bored in your block. Rods, the reason we don't Babbitt rod inserts, is because when done, and put in the Rods, they have to be , or should be a 100% fit to the I.D. of the rod. If not, they can move in and out, say if there was a small space between the insert, and the rod surface, of a .000-50 thousandths, and as the crank is pushing at the top, and bottom of each stroke, it can fracture the Babbitt in a short time, so the Babbitt gets a bad name. Inserts, when poured, will distort, and have to be brought back to uniformity, and some can't be trued, to a 100%. We can pour them, but we can't guarantee them. So the easy, and better fix is pouring them solid. As Mr. JV said, there is better Heat transfer, as oil that is between the insert, and rod, is not a good conductor of heat, and if with inserts, they didn't Shims, we normally put in .006 thousandths shims, on either side, and cut with the Babbitt, or if not wanted, we wouldn't. Now, for the mains. The mains hold a crank that just turns in a merry circle, with out the rod thrust, so main inserts work very well, of course if done right, as with anything. Bearings are all the same when it comes to Babbitting, just different size, material that the shell is made of, and oil grooves. If say your main thrust is wore, weather, a Bronze, Steel, or Babbitt shell, we leave about .050 on each side, so the Align Bore man can fit the thrust on the crank to spec's. On the part lines, we leave about .006 thousandths to fit the bearing, so as to make sure you get the bearing crush you desire. That's all I can think of, any more questions, let me know. I am always glad to tell you More then I know ! Thanks, Herm.
  2. herm111

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    " AGREE "
  3. herm111

    Rebuild of a 1926 DB 4 Cylinder

    If you have a +, or - of .001, the crank is already wore out. The center line MUST be kept! You can't grind a crank like that, as you would a 350 Chevy! Your +, of - should be Zero! Herm.
  4. herm111

    locomobile 38 bearings zinc or bronze?

    Mr., Cahartley, what are you referring to when you use the term White Metal versus Babbitt?
  5. herm111

    1926 Auburn Brougham Sedan

    Thanks George, It is a nice one. Herm.
  6. This is an A.M.C.O. Rod Alignment Machine. Every Connecting Rod should be checked for Alignment before being installed in an engine. This Machine will go to 1.500, to 2.625, and with the other set of blades from 2.625, to 3.125. It is all complete, but the bending tool did not get in the pile, when I took the pictures, but it is there, along with the twisting tooling. I want 300.00 for the A.M.C.O. Thanks, 515-303-0363 Herm.
  7. herm111

    Wheel Balancer

    This is a cast Iron Wheel balancer. It is in excellent condition. I think it will do Model T wire wheels, but I don't have one here to try. But the top shaft size is 2-1/2 inches. The largest diameter you see, is made for 1937 to 1940 large center wheels. There is no name on it, but it did have part of a name sticker when I got it about 40 years ago, but I could not make it out for the name. I want 300.00 for it, and that is cheap for what it does. Buy'em when you find them. Thanks, 515-303-0363 Herm.
  8. herm111

    Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Well, I think it is like my typing, I look at one Key, and hit another!!!!!!!!!! LOL, Herm.
  9. herm111

    Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Your Babbitt is called Diesel Marine, although, it should work all right, it is made for Salt Water applications, where it is hard to lubricate. Herm.
  10. herm111

    Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    The only bearings you would have gotten from Olds, would have been Tin base, and that would have been Babbitt Grade No. 11. They had to have been replaced at one time. Federal-Mogul, built bearings using Tin Base, but when pouring used bearings they used Lead, trade name Stonewall Babbitt, by United American Metals. I like hearing those old stories, always has been interesting, to me. First Pictures are of Tin Base Babbitt, for a Peerles 6 Cylinder Continental, K-4. You can see the difference in the Babbitt color. The next bearings are old Babbitt, which had been poured with lead, and a very poor job, at that, by a shop that has been pouring Babbitt for years. These are the kind of shops that give Babbitt a bad name. These bearings had less then a hundred miles on them. The last is from a 1928 Chevy, showing Tin Base Babbitt Mains, after Align Boring. Babbitt was used on thousands, of race cars, for 60 years, and they never had bearing trouble. Thanks, Herm.
  11. herm111

    Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    There are many different Babbitt formulas, the same as it always has been. But, there are essentially two different kinds ,of Babbitt, Lead, and Tin Babbitt. During the war, the government had most of the tin, so bearing builders used lead. Now, in Lead Babbitt, there is less then 5, 10% of tin, and does nothing for the Babbitt. In Tin base Babbitt,, say Fords Grade of 86-7-7. The tin is what makes the bearing strong, Antimony that does its best to hold everything together, and Copper that gives it wearing qualities. Lead will last a long if you keep the R.P.M's down, But Tin is better by far, and a square inch of Tin, compressed to 14,000 pounds will be pressed less then 2%. Yes, Automatic Temperature controls, that is a good point, Mr. Chistech. A very large percent today of auto babbitters do not have temperature controlled melting pots. You can't pour good bearings with out them. Pouring good bearings is all about, Temperature, Temperature, Temperature! This carries over in heating your Jig, and what you use to heat it with, and the rate of cool. Ok, Material in your mains, if you have a very dark color Babbitt in a bearing, it is probably lead, if shiny, or brighter, would be Tin. Just about 90% of the time, bad bearings come from the Babbitt not sticking to the Tinning. it also could be oil, or lack of it, Flat crank, to much engine, missed shifts, ect. Mains will last a long time, if every thing is right, as the mains just turn in a Merry circle, while the Rods start and stop, top and bottom, and then you also have the Power stroke, which is a lot of pressure, on bearing, and crank. The last thing, don't let anybody tell you that Babbitt is no good, as we have poured thousandths of bearings in 54 years, and still have never had a bad bearing. The bearings that come apart in a short time, is nothing but bad workmanship! Thanks, Herm.
  12. herm111

    SWIRLS IN PAINT

    Go to a place that has Auto paint and tools. Ask for Swirl Remover. It is a liquid. It is used after some buffing. Herm.
  13. herm111

    Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    I would think if the rods had shims, the mains would also. You can tell by taking the inserts out, and bolting the cap on, and measure in the inside, up and down, and side ways. What ever the difference is, if any, is what the mains had for a shim pack thickness. From 1929, on up, and through the 1940's, Buick rods, and mains had .006 thousandths for, Rods, and Mains. The longevity all depends on how well the work was done, and the owners care of the engine. Herm.
  14. herm111

    Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Babbitt today is the same, as it was when new. No better, no worse. Herm.