• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

About herm111

  • Rank
    Kohnke Rebabbitting

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Clare, Iowa
  • Interests:
    cars, tractors.

Recent Profile Visitors

578 profile views
  1. This is an A.M.C.O. Rod Alignment Machine. Every Connecting Rod should be checked for Alignment before being installed in an engine. This Machine will go to 1.500, to 2.625, and with the other set of blades from 2.625, to 3.125. It is all complete, but the bending tool did not get in the pile, when I took the pictures, but it is there, along with the twisting tooling. I want 300.00 for the A.M.C.O. Thanks, 515-303-0363 Herm.
  2. Wheel Balancer

    This is a cast Iron Wheel balancer. It is in excellent condition. I think it will do Model T wire wheels, but I don't have one here to try. But the top shaft size is 2-1/2 inches. The largest diameter you see, is made for 1937 to 1940 large center wheels. There is no name on it, but it did have part of a name sticker when I got it about 40 years ago, but I could not make it out for the name. I want 300.00 for it, and that is cheap for what it does. Buy'em when you find them. Thanks, 515-303-0363 Herm.
  3. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Well, I think it is like my typing, I look at one Key, and hit another!!!!!!!!!! LOL, Herm.
  4. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Your Babbitt is called Diesel Marine, although, it should work all right, it is made for Salt Water applications, where it is hard to lubricate. Herm.
  5. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    The only bearings you would have gotten from Olds, would have been Tin base, and that would have been Babbitt Grade No. 11. They had to have been replaced at one time. Federal-Mogul, built bearings using Tin Base, but when pouring used bearings they used Lead, trade name Stonewall Babbitt, by United American Metals. I like hearing those old stories, always has been interesting, to me. First Pictures are of Tin Base Babbitt, for a Peerles 6 Cylinder Continental, K-4. You can see the difference in the Babbitt color. The next bearings are old Babbitt, which had been poured with lead, and a very poor job, at that, by a shop that has been pouring Babbitt for years. These are the kind of shops that give Babbitt a bad name. These bearings had less then a hundred miles on them. The last is from a 1928 Chevy, showing Tin Base Babbitt Mains, after Align Boring. Babbitt was used on thousands, of race cars, for 60 years, and they never had bearing trouble. Thanks, Herm.
  6. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    There are many different Babbitt formulas, the same as it always has been. But, there are essentially two different kinds ,of Babbitt, Lead, and Tin Babbitt. During the war, the government had most of the tin, so bearing builders used lead. Now, in Lead Babbitt, there is less then 5, 10% of tin, and does nothing for the Babbitt. In Tin base Babbitt,, say Fords Grade of 86-7-7. The tin is what makes the bearing strong, Antimony that does its best to hold everything together, and Copper that gives it wearing qualities. Lead will last a long if you keep the R.P.M's down, But Tin is better by far, and a square inch of Tin, compressed to 14,000 pounds will be pressed less then 2%. Yes, Automatic Temperature controls, that is a good point, Mr. Chistech. A very large percent today of auto babbitters do not have temperature controlled melting pots. You can't pour good bearings with out them. Pouring good bearings is all about, Temperature, Temperature, Temperature! This carries over in heating your Jig, and what you use to heat it with, and the rate of cool. Ok, Material in your mains, if you have a very dark color Babbitt in a bearing, it is probably lead, if shiny, or brighter, would be Tin. Just about 90% of the time, bad bearings come from the Babbitt not sticking to the Tinning. it also could be oil, or lack of it, Flat crank, to much engine, missed shifts, ect. Mains will last a long time, if every thing is right, as the mains just turn in a Merry circle, while the Rods start and stop, top and bottom, and then you also have the Power stroke, which is a lot of pressure, on bearing, and crank. The last thing, don't let anybody tell you that Babbitt is no good, as we have poured thousandths of bearings in 54 years, and still have never had a bad bearing. The bearings that come apart in a short time, is nothing but bad workmanship! Thanks, Herm.

    Go to a place that has Auto paint and tools. Ask for Swirl Remover. It is a liquid. It is used after some buffing. Herm.
  8. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    I would think if the rods had shims, the mains would also. You can tell by taking the inserts out, and bolting the cap on, and measure in the inside, up and down, and side ways. What ever the difference is, if any, is what the mains had for a shim pack thickness. From 1929, on up, and through the 1940's, Buick rods, and mains had .006 thousandths for, Rods, and Mains. The longevity all depends on how well the work was done, and the owners care of the engine. Herm.
  9. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Babbitt today is the same, as it was when new. No better, no worse. Herm.
  10. 1926 Dodge Brothers Coolant Leak

    Nothing to it Mr. Spinney, you can put in a circle groove in each end of the bearing, about 5/8's inside, and then put your straight line oil groove in top and bottom of the bearing, connecting the two circle grooves, and drill a oil in to bearing hole, where ever the oil enters, and line it up, and have the hole intersect the length way groove.
  11. 1926 Dodge Brothers Coolant Leak

    In some cases, the groove has to run out both ends, as in a bearing not being fed oil as in some splash systems.
  12. 1926 Dodge Brothers Coolant Leak

    The Grooves are called oil wells.
  13. 28 studebaker dictator finally came home

    Looking Good, Terry. 1927 Studebaker Babbitt pictures. 1939 Nash Rods. 1923 Aluminum Air Cooled Franklin Rods, and Mains. 1928 Chevy Mains.
  14. 1924 Buick top laches

    Mr. Fred, I haven't seen what the shaft size is here, but as far as bearing clearance. I am going to use a Shaft size of 2" inches. The bearing clearance should be a minimum of .002-00 thousandths, and a Maximum of .000-50 , 1/2 thousandths more. That even goes for a 12" shaft, clearance being .012, to .012-50. The reason for this is heat expansion. A 2" crank, when hot will have swollen, almost, .002 thousandths, where will the oil be? With a thousand miles on the bearings, or the more top end speed that is used, the bearing will probably be around .003-50 thousandths for clearance, when cold. So when the crank is up to Temp., you should have around .001-50, to .002-00 thousandths clearance, when the crank is hot. Side clearance on rods can be from .003 at the smallest, to .012 at the extreme, but .004 to .006 being Ideal. End clearance on crank thrust, we set from .003-50 to .004-00 thousandths. any thing over .006, or .007 thousandths should be fixed as with clutch pressure, it will beat it to death. Thanks, Mr. Fred Herm. KohnkeRebabbittingService.com