Zimm63

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About Zimm63

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  1. Did mine about 2000 with lines from Classic I think. Running the new line through the frame is easy. Cut the end off the existing one, tape the new one to it and use the old one to pull it through. I think it fed from the front and having a second person to control the new line would probably help. I did have to send the front cross over line back, but the replacement they made using my original as a pattern was fine. I did my 93 F150 some years later when it started blowing lines. No issues since and its probably been 10-12 years. Over all, a recommended upgrade.
  2. Zimm63

    Model T mechanic needed in Central PA

    I thought anyone with a pair of slipjoint pliers and a hammer was a Model T mechanic.
  3. I wanna be like Ernest T when I grow up. Had a lady pushing a petition once, just wouldn't leave me alone. I signed it Ernest T Bass. She didn't get it and thanked me for supporting her cause.
  4. Flip by owner? Didn't even take it off the trailer. Good car to learn on, simple to fix. By the time you get it done you will have learned welding, mechanics, electrics, body work, and interior refurbishment. Or, you will spend a fortune on a car thats not worth much and it will be a long time before you enjoy it if ever.
  5. Zimm63

    Biggest new car per peaves

    Ditto not liking touch screens. They do a lot of cool stuff, but I like to be able to deal with the heat etc without taking my eyes off the road. Second gripe- what happened to the dip switch on the floor? Worked great. Still does in my 63 Riv and 61 TR3.
  6. PM sent. Yes, its an AFB.
  7. Following up on this topic. Tax season being over and the sun shining, I dug into this today. Pulled the top off the carb and had a look see. I tried the blow through test and a valve was leaking. Hot water test on the floats showed both were good. SOB!! There was dirt in the valve. I am guessing that I did a poor job of cleaning out the passages when I put the kit in it a few months back. I pulled the valves out, found more dirt, sprayed a bunch of cleaner through it, then blew it out. You will recall that I installed a new filter and line when the carb went back on the engine. I doubt any dirt got through that. All back together now and it seems to run like before. Now I can start tracking down that bit of a miss I feel at speed. Anybody got suggestions as how best to clean the internal passages? I still want to rebuild the original carb and put it back on. I have a new kit from the Carb Shop ready to go.
  8. Had a few minutes today to conduct some experiments. Fuel pressure gauge reads 4-5 psi pumping against a plugged line, disconnected from the carb using the starter. Hooked it up to the carb and it read 4-5 with the engine running. Ran less than a minute before leaking started out of the top of the accelerator pump. So, dirt or floats set too high? If floats too high, why didn't it leak immediately after the rebuild? If dirt, how is it getting through the brand new filter and line between the pump and carb. The floats looked good when I rebuilt the carb last fall. Are there any good shops out there who can rebuild this thing to eliminate any question of it being done properly? Back to tax work for me. 10 days to go.
  9. As stated previously, it will be a couple days before I can get back to this. More info: Fuel filter is new, line from filter to carb is new. I opened the old filter and there was no significant dirt in it. Tank was out of the car and cleaned a few years back and new rubber lines installed at that time. Gas is coming out othe main jets when looking down the carb. It also is leaking out of the top of the accelerator pump. Car blubbers due to excessive fuel. Fortunately, it hasn't backfired and set the thing on fire. I will keep an extinguisher handy. I have a couple that are the replacement for Halon. Really wouldn't want to use a dry powder one unless I had to. Immediate plan is to T in a fuel pressure gauge betweeen the filter and the carb. Excess pressure makes sense, but I have never seen a fuel pump fail that way. My normal is they fail to no pressure. The fact that it has done it with two carbs and after a rebuild appears to be a clue. I may be dense, but I do get there after a while. More as information developed.
  10. Engine not hot, plate in place, proper gaskets on the intake manifold. Floats were good and I am confident they are properly set. The pump was replaced in 2001 or so. Could be the issue. I have a new one on order. Need to see how I can rig my pressure gauge up to measure. The one I have is set up for an old Volvo fuel injection system. Might be a few days before I can get to it.
  11. Stock pump. Not new. How/why would it jump up the pressure?
  12. After years of fooling with old cars, I am having an idiot attack. I just cannot seem to get the AFB in my Riv working properly. Symptom is gas leaking out of the carb when running. Gas is pouring out the jets at idle as well as every other point that the thing can leak. Sunk float, stuck float, bad valve? Dunno. Fixed all that with a kit from the Carb Shop. Best out there. Original carb had this problem. Spare carb did the same thing. Rebuilt the spare with the good kit and things were fine for a while. Car ran great Saturday a week ago. Today, gas all over the place. Filter is new, gas line is new from filter to carb. Obviously, I am the problem. Can anyone refer me to a car shop that knows what they are doing?
  13. Zimm63

    1937 Graham for sale

    "rolled easily when parked" What a step down from the classic "ran when parked"
  14. Zimm63

    cleaning out warehouse

    Found the post I mentioned in the British Car section. October 2014 same name and phone #. At that time it was stated that the cars were near St. Louis. Apparently he hasn't sold anything in the interim.