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Trunk release


wwebb

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There is a relay and you are probably hearing that pick.

You need to get the trunk open and check the solenoid.....you may need to run power directly to it.

If it is not obvious, you can open the access door under the back window and you can reach the trunk release...

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Guest TheNewDamage

I have been having some issues with my trunk release too and Ill share what I think is going on. Turning the key or using the clicker or the push button in the glove compartment usually makes the trunk lock solenoid release. Sometimes it doesnt and I found that wiggling the 2 wire connector right at the solenoid often makes it work so chances are its a bad or just loose connection there. Now even when the solenoid fires unless I am there lifting the trunk lid up the trunk stays locked because the solenoid only fires and release fairly quick and doesnt hold. That tells me most likely the trunk lid struts are supposed to be lifting the lid up as soon as the lock solenoid fires. I lubed all the hinge pivot points for the trunk lid and the struts themselves and it didnt help any large amount. I think the struts themselves are weak from age. I am going to replace them (if I can find the correct size) and see if that fixes it. I think it will.

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Guest Reattaray

I believe that the trunk struts do not push the lid up. If you have a poor connection, Autozone has a connector p/n 85844 (alternator socket) that is a replacement for the one that plugs into the solenoid. This corrected my problem.

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Guest DTerry

The rod from the solenoid has a disk on the end of it that operates the lock. It's not uncommon for the disk to break off and then the solenoid will operate, but the lock will not release. There is a spring on the lock that forces the trunk lid up slightly when released; the trunk lid supports aren't involved.

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There is another possibility. There is an interlock built into some (I noticed it on a 1990 convertible) solenoid assemblies that is prevent the solenoid from working unless the trunk is latched. This may be a convertible only thing and I am working on more information.

However if your car has this interlock and it is broken, the 12V line to the solenoid can be open.

UPDATE..I checked my '91 coupe yesterday and it also has the interlock, there is a small plastic arm that extends over the latch mechanism. When the trunk is shut, the lower part of the latch pushes this arm up, making a set of contacts.

Also, this interlock does not appear in the service manual. So, I am not sure why GM felt it was necessary, it could be bypassed.

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Guest alex_houston

I had a similar problem with my Convertable project. I finally had to install a ground wire from the latch switch to the trunk hinge bolt to the body. Now that I have ground I no longer have any issues.

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Does your trunk light work? If not, you may have a ground problem. Just fixed this item today. When I touched a temporary ground wire from a bare spot on the solenoid to the ground, the trunk light came on and them when I used the trunk key switch (with the temporary ground still in place), the solenid would work.

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My release works, but when I use the remote it "clicks" (releases) about 4 or 5 times. When I use the button in the glove box, it works and there is only one click. It's not a big deal, but everyone in the parking lot looks when I pop the trunk. Any ideas?

Thanks,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Watch out for the dreded Wal-Mart bag syndrome. I went to Wal-mart and put my purchases in the trunk. When I got home, all I heard was the little click. I opened it by reaching the manual release through the access door (before the ice cream melted!) The handle on one of the Wal-mart bags was tangled in the latch and somehow this kept the solenoid from working. This has happended to me twice, so now I'm careful to keep the bags away from the latch.

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The "button" on the end of the solneoid had broken on mine, and since there is no way to just change the solenoid, I got a used one from Jim Finn that has served me well. I spent a month or two using an old 2 iron shaft to trip the manual release from through the back hatch.

When installing the replacement, just snug up the bolts and ease the deck down while peeking into the gap between deck and rear panel to see how the latch aligns with the striker bar. Once you get the side to side alignment, mark that and then gently push the deck closed. Now release it with the key switch. The up and down location can be adjusted to give a better "pop up" and tightly closed location.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just heard from another Reatta owner that was having solenoid problems. After checking several things, he run a temp ground and the problems went away.

So as others have reported, if you trunk solenoid is acting up...try a ground (easily done with a jumper cable).

This owner also reported that his solenoid would cycle several times when it did work, the ground solved that also.

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Thanks Barney!

The tip on adding a ground will help me. When I open the trunk my solenoid cycles several times as you say. I thought the problem was some kind of timer causing it of something.

How should the ground be installed? Does the trunk lid need to be grounded to the body or the solenoid need to be grounded to the trunk lid or both?

Thanks again!

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Guest EDBSO

I lived with this problem on my 89 for a very long time ... tried all the above ... and it was only fixed when bowdown.gifbowdown.gif the great bowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gif JIM FINN bowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gif sold and shipped me a replacement one and fast and at a very reasonable price.

Like Nike says JUST DO IT! EDBSO

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Thanks Robert for the endorsement.

I have to agree though that the ground is a big factor. The solenoid grounds through the two bolts that hold it to the trunk lid and if they are not tight you might have a bad ground. I recently sent one to a person and he said it was intermittent so I sent him another one but I always test my parts before I send them out so I suspect it was simply a bad ground and the first one was OK. The solenoid and the bolt and trunk lid are all painted in this area so it is easy to have a bad ground.

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The deck lid ground is dependent on the bolts in the hinge, the hinge joints themselves and then where the hinge is bolted to the body. Counting all the places you can have bad continuity in the ground is numerous.

To ground the trunk, take a piece of wire at least 18" long and plan on putting in inside the harness of wires that go to the trunk light and solenoid so it is not obvious. Then carefully drill a small hole in the deck lid reinforcement. I would put a ring terminal on each end of the wire, then a small sheet metal screw through the ring terminal into the hole you drilled. Then do the same inside the trunk. You might even find an existing screw to mount it under.

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