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101087

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Everything posted by 101087

  1. 101087

    ENGINE MOUNT

    Is the "dog bone" strut the same on a 1991 coupe and conv. The part is usually described as fitting a 1991 coupe, but it never states anything about a conv. Thanks,
  2. My release works, but when I use the remote it "clicks" (releases) about 4 or 5 times. When I use the button in the glove box, it works and there is only one click. It's not a big deal, but everyone in the parking lot looks when I pop the trunk. Any ideas? Thanks,
  3. Well I think I got rid of my rear brake "rattle" by following the "hints" in the forum, but now I have a new noise. When I turn right at slow speeds, I get a squeak (chirp) in the right rear wheel area. I do not know if it is the brakes or suspension. It happens real quick when I first start to turn. I used silicon spray and looked for anything loose, but have had no luck. Any ideas? Thanks,
  4. There is a red/tan 1991 Conv on Ebay. I asked the owner if it was really a 1990 and he said yes, but never changed the listing. It was also for sale on Ebay about 3 months ago. It did not sell then. I called the owner after the listing ended and he said the car was sold. Now its for sale again. Beware!
  5. Is my rear wheel hub bad? At slow speeds when I hit a bump or quickly turn the wheel to the right (only), I get a squeak on the rear right side. It sounds like the the break pads on the rotor. It is not the caliper or pads moving around (brake rattle). When I jack the car up, I can wiggle the wheel and it moves about 1/4 of an inch (from the top of the wheel to the bottom). If it is bad, any suggestions on a source with good prices? Thanks,
  6. Yes, I do have the CD compartment, but I want to keep it. I don't mind modifing the car, but I want to keep all the original parts. Thanks,
  7. Yes, I do have the CD compartment, but I want to keep it. I don't mind modifing the car, but I want to keep all the original parts. Thanks,
  8. I did not even plug the CD wires into the harness. I don't think there are any wires in the new harness anyway. I finished tonight and it all works. The ant. goes up when you turn on the unit. I did not play with it too much, but I'm not sure if you can get the ant. to only go up when the radio is on.
  9. Your in luck, I just did the same install yesterday. I bought the harness from cardomain.com. Scosche part number SCOGM02B AND SCHOMDA1B (for the ant.). The harness is about $10.00 and the ant converter about $5.00 (free shipping). The harness is not perfect. There are 4 plugs in the stock harness. One is for the the front speakers, one for the rear, one for the power and one for the CD. I did not use the CD plug on the Reatta harness. I believe the pink wire on the stock goes to the power ant. (blue on the deck). I put in a larger power wire, because the stock wire seemed way too small. It is a PITA to run wire in this car. Good Luck,
  10. 101087

    Dual Exhaust

    Looks great! How does it sound compared to stock? If you do not mind, what did it cost you? Does the muffler give any performance help? Some posts claim replacing the cat conv helps. Anyone done it recently and what were the results (sound and performance)? Thanks,
  11. I forgot to mention one more thing. Could it be the Mobil 1 oil filter? It is supposed to filter better. Thanks,
  12. Yes, the numbers given were at normal operating temp. When cold, the idle and 2000rpm both read about 1 o'clock. I've driven it about 100 miles since the change and have had no problems. As per the above mentioned criticism of Lucas, it seems that if the oil were foaming up, it would give a different reading after being driven (not the same as when the oil sat overnight and the air was out of the oil). I'm not defending Lucas, but it seems thatif it foamed up, enough people would have complained and it would be easy to see by dropping the oil pan. What do you think? I'd hate to throw away "good" expensive oil and end up with the same readings with "new" oil. Thanks,
  13. I just changed the oil for the first time on my new 91. Since I really do not know what the PO did, I also dropped the oil pan. All seemed great and I put it back togeather. I added about 3 1/2 quarts of Lucas 10/30 oil (it was on sale for the same price as Mobil 1) and 1 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. Before I added the new oil my oil pressure was about 10 o'clock on the gauge at idle and about 1-2 o'clock at 2000rpm. Now, after the change, the oil pressure is at 12:00 at idle and 1:00 at 2000rpm. Should I be concerned? Thanks,
  14. Hank, I really like the way that looks. I too want to do the same thing you did (get rid of the CD player and put a 1.5 din CD deck in dash). Where did you get the storage compartment? I've got a 91 conv. Did you cut the harness or get a plug? Thanks,
  15. I messed up when i took the first front strut off for replacement. I did not mark the position of the spring or bearing plate. When I put it back on, I was not sure which way it went (you can rotate the assembly) or even if it makes a difference. When I take it in for alignment, will they adjust it? If not, what should I do? Thanks,
  16. I'm replacing the struts in my "new" 91 conv. I had no problem getting the front struts out and figured it would be a good time to lube the ball joints and tie rod ends (per FSM). The ball joints have fittings, but there are none on the tie rods (only rubber boots that seem empty). How do you lube them? Also, I've read all the posts on flushing the brake fluid on the 88, 89, and 90's, but have not found much about the 91. Do you do it like any other car, or is it a pain like the other years? Thanks,
  17. What year car are these pictures from? Thanks
  18. I'm trying to go through my "new" 91 Conv and I have 2 questions. A few posts mention cleaning the throttle body. When I took off the hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body, there was a "mesh" screen there. I took out the retaining washer, but the mesh disk would not come out easily. I did not want to destroy it, so I checked with the GM parts dept. and several auto parts stores. Nobody knows what it is and if it can be replaced. Is there a part number and if so where can I get it? What is the best way to proceed? The other question has to do with the IAC. The picures posted do not look like my car. Is there a way to identify it. I do not want to remove something and possibly break it. The FSM is not much help either. The car idles ok, but I'm sure it nas not been checked for awhile. Thanks for the help,
  19. 101087

    rear brakes

    Thanks for the info. I have 2 questions (for now). Did you ever figure out the E-brake problem? Number two is not ment to offend you in any way (it's a great write up), but I like second opinions (especially when it come to stopping). Has anyone else done the upgrade and how do you like it? From the great post, it seems to be straight forward and not too expensive. I'll do anything to get rid of the rattle. Thanks,
  20. 101087

    rear brakes

    I've read all of the posts about the rear break rattle and not being able to fix it because the OEM brake pads are NLA. Will buying new or rem. calipers correct the problem? Are these calpers "different" than the OEM calipers and have pads that are meant to fit them. Or, are they just the same calipers with non-fitting brake pads? I will gladly buy new calpers to "fix" the problem. If so, what brand and where to buy? Thanks,
  21. 101087

    rear brakes

    In this post you say to buy 2 "kits". What kits are you refering to? I love my "new" car, but I need to try and get rid of the rear brake rattle. Thanks,
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