Blasted Easy Out

[Guest imported_Thriller]

So any thoughts on removing this broken piece of hard junk? I was out there wrestling with it for a while today and all that would happen was the vise grips would slip.

Alternatively, anyone want a Wildcat? Every time I touch it, something goes wrong. I tried installing the battery today and a nut for the hold down fell into some place that I couldn't see it...maybe later I'll head out with a magnet. So far, I haven't located another nut here the same size. One beer down...time to switch to the Gibson's.

Sigh.

After that, I almost didn't put the air cleaner lid on for fear that I'd manage to mess that up too...I definitely stopped thinking about trying to do anything on the boat.

[old-tank]

Heat is always a good thing, lots of it in this case to un-temper the ez-out. If enough is exposed choose a nut that will just slip over it and weld it to the ez-out. After you get it out drill the bolt and install a thread repair like helicoil.

[Guest imported_Thriller]

Thanks for the advice...since the carpet and such is in the car, I'll have to be careful with heat. Alas, I have no welder, so the nut won't work unless I can bribe someone to come by - there's probably a good inch or so sticking out, so that concept would work.

[Smartin]

Can you drill the bolt from under the car? ...effectively pushing the easy out "out" of the dead bolt.

[Guest ZondaC12]

someone told me EZ-outs were good for getting a stripped out bolt out. why do i now hear of them always breaking? are they just poorly built? youd think they would have improved the production a little by now!!!

[Smartin]

They're extremely brittle, and the smaller easy-out bits break very easily.

[Guest imported_Thriller]

Good idea Adam...that might work.

Zondac12...I hope someone can answer this better for you as I've used them twice now and my success rate is at 50%...of course, if you American would adopt Robertson screw heads instead of Phillips, the one time it worked for me it wouldn't have been necessary. I think it may just have something to do with how stubborn these things can be when a bolt gets rusted in for 40 or more years. Things get really stuck and then we hope for the magic bullet.

[Bhigdog]

Easy outs are dicey at best. To have any chance of working, the broken bolt should be drilled through all the way. That gives the threads some place to collapse to. A good soaking with a penetrant and some hammer tapping helps. Tap the easy out in only as tight as necessary since that is wedging the broked bolt tighter in the hole. Good luck.

[Guest ZondaC12]

re: Robertson heads--i googled it and went "ohhhhhh those!" box screws i call em, had no idea there was a name! yup looks like a good idea to me.

[Guest brh]

I have also found that the softer the bolt the more likely you are to bust the damn thing. Specifically in exhaust manifolds, and lifter covers. I won't use them anymore. Take a center punch, dent the broken stud in the MIDDLE use a small drill bit for the first pass. Once you are through, drill as much out as poss. Quite often the threads can be bent with a hardened thin piece of steel, sometimes a small punch. I know this is monday morning quarterback but maybe it will help in the future.

[old-tank]

As Adam mentioned working from the bottom may help. There may be a nut plate or caged nut that can be chiseled from the bottom and then replaced with a regular nut.

Dang EZ outs have never come with good directions or indications for proper use. The ONLY times I have had success is when I break a clean lubricated bolt during installation! And even that will not work if the bolt is bottomed out in the hole. Think about it: If the existing head of a rusted bolt will not move it, how can a 1/2 size tool do any better? And when (not if) it breaks you have the additional problem with the hard steel stuck in the hole.

It is best if you leave the EZout on the shelf and drill the bolt. I use reverse drill bits in increasingly larger sizes which will sometimes grab the bolt and back it out as a shell. Usually I have to drill oversize and use a tread repair like Helicoil. I witnessed a neat trick to extract a 5/16 bolt from an installed cylinder head that could not be drilled: the mechanic placed a washer over the remnant of the bolt that was flush with the cast head and welded the bolt to the center of the washer; he then welded a nut to the washer. Apparently the welding process will not 'stick' to the cast iron as readily as the steel bolt.

Willie

[RocketDude]

When dealing with a broken E-Z out or tap, there is no easy answer since they are hardened and can't be drilled. There is a place in my area by the name of "Jerry's Broken Tap". They specialize in removing broken taps and E-Z outs, or bolts with rolled threads. They use a laser to follow the threads and they can clean it to perfection. I have had times when I was able to drive the car to them, sometimes had to tow the car to them. They need room to do the job, so some situations may require removing the part, i.e. the head or whatever.

I'm not suggesting you tow your car to So Calif, but I would call the local auto machine shops to see if such a service is available in your area. I'm sure there are specialists in most areas, because as you see from this thread, there is a need for them. If there is no such service in your area, I just gave you a million dollar business idea. Quit your job and go for it.

If you have no luck finding anyone locally, let me know, I'll give you Jerry's number, maybe he knows of someone in your area, or how to find someone....

Last time I used them, I think it was about $80 for the first bolt, lots less for additional ones. Add that to your towing bill and it's still a lot cheaper than your health. It will make your wife's life easier, too

Good luck

[Guest Faust]

There is a process for "burning" them out. It is called "EDS", or something similar (Electrical Discharge something or other). A number of machine shops have it. un fortunately, there are none local to me. If there is enough head left, I pefer to use the nut/bolt/stud extractors. Craftsman and a number of other suppliers have them. They are sockets with counter clockwise teeth that cut into and grip the piece. My machine shop recommends drilling out as much as possible, then using a reverse bit.

[Guest windjamer]

Dont know where your broken tap is, but if there is enough room to use a torch safely,heat it red and imeadtly pour cold water on it. do this 3--4 times and you stand a good chance of geting it out with vise grips. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[imported_buick5563]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">. My machine shop recommends drilling out as much as possible, then using a reverse bit. </div></div>

No matter what, you should try drilling out as much as possible (with a cobalt bit, not cheap but always worth it). Obviously, the less bolt/ez out you have. the better.

Mike

[JohnD1956]

I was able to successfully drill one out using an industrial dremmel with a carbide bit. These dremmels spin at 10K RPM and the carbide bit went through that easy out so fast it wasn't even funny. In my case this was a broken stud for the water pump on the GS. I put the old water pump in place to use as a guide for the size of the bit and the direction to drill. Then I practiced with the dremmel outside the car to get used to it's torque. Light pressure on the drill and two hands to go steady and serious goggles. That RPM and carbide bit had metal flying all over.

JD

[Guest imported_Thriller]

Thanks for all the advice gang...I've got my work cut out for me.

This is a seat bolt, so it is in the floor of the car, but the carpet / insulation is there too - I'd be a bit leery of using too much heat, even though the plan is to replace the carpeting.

Hindsight being 20/20, I probably could have gone up a size or two on the drilling before trying the Easy out...sigh...of course, if you guys knew my prescription, you'd understand that even my hindsight may not be that good <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

[The Old Guy]

Derek

Some seat bolts go all the way through the floor. Check and see if you can see it under the car. You may be able to drill from the bottom up and than use a punch and knock it out.

[Guest imported_Thriller]

That's exactly what I was thinking of earlier today...seeing as the other bolts all came out, I know that they go through (holes in the floor of the Wildcat are threaded). Without having it up too high, I was debating setting up a punch on a lever with my 210 lbs on the other end providing the force. Unless I lift the car somewhat, there won't be much room to swing a hammer onto a punch.

I'm heading out of town a bit this weekend, but I'll report on my progress once I get a chance to work on it...at this rate, I definitely won't have the new carpet in for the Spring Extravaganza in St. Paul in two weeks.