Broken sparkplugs

[Matt Harwood]

I know this isn't exactly antique automobile discussion, but some of the smartest car guys around live here, so I thought I'd give it a try. I'm well and truly in trouble. My '98 Ram pickup has been running roughly when it's cold. Once it's warmed up, everything's fine. So I figure I'd replace plugs, wires, cap and rotor, the basics.

And here's where the problems start. First, the distuributor cap is bolted to the distributor body, and both bolts sheared off as I was struggling to loosen them. It actually felt like they were coming loose and it took very little force. It wasn't until later that I even noticed.

But that's not the end of it. Since I hadn't noticed the problems with the distributor cap yet, I started changing the plugs. The very first one, way in back on the driver's side, <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">broke off</span></span> at the threads. Yep, the threads are still in the hole, the bolt part of the plug is in my hand. No, not just the porcelain, but the part the wrench grabs. So I'm boned: I can't get the plug out, probably not without pulling the head, and I can't drive it to the shop on 7 cylinders because the distibutor cap can't be installed (yeah, I could do it myself, but I <span style="font-style: italic">really</span> don't want to).

And to top it off, all 6000 pounds of truck is sitting at the end of my driveway. The rest of my cars? Trapped behind it. Any guesses how many people I'll need to push it up the hill? And will this 22-foot long monster even fit on a flatbed?

Thanks for letting me vent. I'm pretty sure I'll have to pull the head, but any other suggestions would be great. Thanks, guys!

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> ...but any other suggestions would be great. </div></div>

I don't know about you, but tomorrow I'm pulling the plugs out of my Prius and coating the threads with anti-seize. You just reminded me that I forgot to do that with this car. As long as plugs last these days they should all be coated with anti-seize to prevent this (broken plug) from happening.

It mught have been the problem with the cap bolts. Steel bolts in an aluminum body forms a battery that corrodes the metals together. The anti-seize insulates the battery action as much as it lubes the threads for later removal.

Check your other cars. I'd recommend doing the same to any newer car, especially one with 100,000 mile plugs in aluminum heads.

[Guest Albert]

if you have oxy/act torch you can heat the threaded portion red hot, them let it cool completly, then use an easy out and it will inscrew , you may have to put a screwdriver in the hole abd bend the electroid out of the way to get the easy out in far enough, i broke 3 off in a Packard engine and the came out easy after. the heat will make the threaded part expaned it and then collasp on to itself once its cool without damaging the threads in the head.

[R W Burgess]

Yep, the easy-out will work. Had that happen to a "small" plugged Chevy some years ago. Didn't have or even think about the "heating system". <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Wayne

[critterpainter]

try using zipties to hold the dist cap on long enough to move the pick-up

Bill

[DizzyDale]

Dear Matt,I had the broken plug issue on a Astro van,a REAL EASY access situation....WRONG.....Yes the easyout WORKS.Good luck...Head removal is the LAST resort.Take care.diz

[RocketDude]

It doesn't sound like your weekend is going real well, so far. I'm sorry to hear about your dilemma.

There is a specialty shop in my area, called Jerry's broken tap. They specialize in removing broken bolts, drills, even taps, that people break off in the course of doing repair. They use a lazer to follow the threads, and can remove anything, with no damage to the hole, or threads.

All the dealerships, imdependent garages, and do-it-your-selfers keep them very busy, as you can imagine.

Depending on whether or not they can get their equipment close enough to do the job, you may or may not have to remove the head. In some cases, I have had vehicles towed to them, or sometimes have had to remove the head, or whatever, and take to them. Your plug is in the rear, so it looks like it's time to "off the head!"

I live in so Calif, so I'm not suggesting you tow your truck here from Ohio, but I'm telling you the technology exists, and there may very well be such a place in your area. You might inquire with some local mechanic to see about it. There isn't a mechanic anywhere that hasn't encounterd the problem, if they are doing any quanity of work.

If you don't have any luck asking around, I'll dig up Jerry's number. Perhaps you could call him and inquire if he has an idea on locating a like business in your area. If you live near a big city, I would guess there is a place. If not, it sounds like we just found you a new career..!

Good luck....

[RocketDude]

"I don't know about you, but tomorrow I'm pulling the plugs out of my Prius and coating the threads with anti-seize. You just reminded me that I forgot to do that with this car. As long as plugs last these days they should all be coated with anti-seize to prevent this (broken plug) from happening."

anti-seize is great stuff, but be very careful when using in in late model computer cars. Use just the tinest of amounts on plug threads. The o2 sensor can pick it up and cause problems.

Just like RTV silicone, they make special kinds for computer cars. Check the tube. If you use the wrong sealant, the o2 sensor is so sensitive, it can pick up the fumes long after it had dried, and make your computer go nuts. Same goes for anti-seize. Just use a tiny spot on one side of the threads, it will work it's way aroung and save you later.

[Matt Harwood]

Thanks for the great replies guys. I'm going to shoot some PB Blaster down the holes for a few days and hope that it works its magic. Then I'll try the easy-out extractor route. It certainly can't hurt and perhaps it'll save me a trip to the dealer.

Now the distributor is another problem altogether. Hopefully I can extract the broken screws and get the new cap on. Of course, the brilliant minds at ChryCo decided to copy the small-block Chevy and stuck the distributor in the back. I wonder if I can latch on a set of Vise-Grips by feel...

Thanks again, everyone. It is much appreciated. Will let you know how it turns out.

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I wonder if I can latch on a set of Vise-Grips by feel... </div></div>

I don't know about that, but I think it'd be a d@mn sight easier to pull the distributor and then try and extract the screws.

Good luck! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Matt Harwood]

Well, it's over.

I dug in my heels, bought two screw extractors and had at it. Nothing. The first problem was actually grabbing the screw extractor--you'd think it was the same as a 3/8" drive, but it's not. But a 3/8" extension fit closely enough that it wouldn't turn inside. So I tried a 3/8" wrench on the box end of an extension, but it didn't have enough leverage.

Then I took a 12-point socket that fit over the 3/8" extension, and tried cranking on it with a ratchet.

Then a bigger ratchet.

Then a breaker bar.

Then the socket broke and the corners of the extension rounded off.

So I got the welder out, welded the socket to the extension and tried again. Now the extension spun on the EZ Out, so I pulled it all out and welded it all together. The tool below is basically what I built (though it's important to note that it was NOT bent when I made it--that came later. It's also twisted slightly).

So the threads didn't budge a micron. That's it, I'm out. I'm going to call the dealer and ask them the book time for R&R on a set of heads. They should be able to give me a rough estimate based on hours (but I bet they won't).

If anyone knows a good mechanic in Cleveland who can help me out (or if any of you wants the job), I'm sending it out first thing next week. I absolutely don't have time to do it myself with 2 houses for sale and purchasing a third.