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removing tire from wheel?


WillBilly53

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Guest oldtimer

it kinda like a bicycle tire, a really big, strong, hard bicycle tire. first you have to break the bead, then use some tire spoons (or pry bars) and work the bead over the rim. then to put them on is the reverse of taking them off.

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I have an ancient MANUAL tire machine a buddy gave me when he moved out of his mom's house. I love it and it works great. I've demounted/ mounted 38s with it no problem.<P>Before that, I was crazy (& very young) enough to demount a tire with hand tools- I sawed thru the tire & wire-cored bead with a steak knife & a hacksaw and beat/pried the thing off- took about an hour of my life. Lucky I still have 10 fingers, I suppose.<P>You can buy manual bead breakers- check Northern Hydraulic's catalog.

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I assume this is a common post war stamped steel wheel and not some 1930's wire wheel or something. <BR>first remove all wheel weights. The bead will have to be broken both sides with a bead breaker. Some of the old 50's and 60's tires r VERY stubborn. brush some engine oil or grease around the bead and rim of wheel. use 2 tire irons and starting opposite the valve stem pry the tire up over the edge of the wheel moving the tire irons further and further apart with each bite. REMOVE THE TIRE FROM THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE WHEEL. Then remove the BACK side of the tire from OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE WHEEL. <P>REPEAT: oil, gtrease or soapy water the bead and wheel.<BR>REPEAT: REMOVE TIRE FROM OUTSIDE edge of wheel. There r some exceptions to removal from out side edge.

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THIS is for those who recommend a tire shop:<P><BR>u can break and mount and balance 2 wheels/tires (235/75 R15 and smaller) faster than u can load'em in a car haul'em to a shop and set around drinking their bad coffee waiting for them to do it. Those tire shops r for SISSY's!!! and most of the guy's working in those tire shops were flipping burgers last week. Its NOT rocket science. Just alot of sweat and grunt work.

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Just last week I was in a wrecking yard in San Antonio and found 5 original '56 Chev passenger car wheels. They quoted me 2 prices, one for bare wheels and for wheels and dryrotted tires. They would not assist in dismounting the tires. So I used a bumper jack to break down the bead of the tire (lay tire flat under a car bumper, place base of jack on the tire sidewall as you operate the jack wieght of the car will break the bead loose). Then I used 2 jack handles to pry tire over the edge of the rim. Took me about less than an hour to do all five. Would had been quicker if it wasn't 90 plus degrees in the sun that day. Henry.

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Guest Skyking

I used to change my tires by hand to the point where I'd be fighting with them. Then I found a nice Coates tire machine at a swap meet for $100.00. My son and I bought it, cleaned and painted it. It's all automatic and works perfectly. It saves alot of back pain. Stations around here get $10 to $12 to change one tire. We also picked up a bubble balancer.

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If this is just a one time deal, I'd just find a tire shop that won't charge you an arm and a leg. I had a local tire shop remove and dispose of 4 tires off a set of road wheels I had picked up and I think they charged be less than $20 total. Guy even came out and helped take the wheels out of the car. Took about 3 minutes.

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Last week I had to put a tire on the Sears tractor. I bought the tire at WalMart, got the old one off, and then messed with the new one for close to an hour trying to get it on the rim. Finally said the hell with this, went up the street to the lawn and garden, paid 'em 4 bux and was outta there in less than ten minutes.<P>Sissy that I am, I don't believe in doing things the hard way. My dad and uncle did everything the hard way their whole lives, and I work with several people who think if you're not doing it the hardest way you can find, you're not earning your money. I say, the hell with that! Work smarter, not harder.<P>I guess I forgot to mention that I have anytime access to a Corghi tire machine at my buddy's Amoco. Even if I didn't, I'd still pay the $25 or so to have tires mounted. Saying "I did it myself here at home" is not a priority- saving meself time and work is. tongue.gif" border="0

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priorities???????? Hmmmmmmmm. let me see. Over the years i have found wheel weight hammers, gloves, wheel weights, jewelery, rags, and many times water as much as a tea cup full, and a chicken bone among many other things MANY times. Some were premium grade tires mounted and 'balanced' (NOTE THE quotes around balanced) by 'reputable' tire stores in various areas of the country. (there is NO such thing as a reputable tire store). MY PRIORITES is to SAVE TIME and get the job done right the first time. Those of u that r having tire balance problems i recommend the much loathed BUBBLE balancer. The bubble balancer will indicate quickly foreign matter that mite be in the tire.

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Harbor freight also has a tool to break bead and hold tire while you remove it from the rim. It is manual but a lot smaller than the automatic type and a lot cheaper.

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Yes, i have a manual lever type bead breaker. it works just fine but some of the old 50's and 60's tires can become very stiff and difficult. i also have an older Mays bronters tire changer. its alever type with power bead breaker on the side...VERY manual but WORKS. Circa 1940. The only tools realy needed for tire changing is 2 tire irons, a 2wo pound hammer, some oil or grease, and a GOOD QUALITY bubble balancer. I bought all of this stuff at garage sales over the years. i thinkl the bubble balancer was the most expensive for about 18ighteen dollars. Its a Coats. was used twice. Of course these kind of tools and equipment r not for the casual enthusiast who moves on to stamp collecting or conoeing or something after a couple of years... But what the HEY!!!! If u can buy them right then throw away after u loose interest. OR go set in some tire shops waiting room.

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PackardV8,<P>Do you find that the static balancing (via bubble balancer) is as good as a spin balance, which would provide both a dynamic and static balance?<P>Or maybe that's a myth designed to get us into the tire shop waiting line... wink.gif" border="0<P>I have always wondered at the prospect of being a DIY'er in this arena - now I am on ebay looking for bubble balancers and possibly tire changers (though you don't need a changer as long as you've got the tire irons, big enough hammer, patience, grease, and elbow grease, right?)<P>Mark

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PackardV8,<P>Do you find that the static balancing (via bubble balancer) is as good as a spin balance, which would provide both a dynamic and static balance?<P>Or maybe that's a myth designed to get us into the tire shop waiting line... wink.gif" border="0<P>I have always wondered at the prospect of being a DIY'er in this arena - now I am on ebay looking for bubble balancers and possibly tire changers (though you don't need a changer as long as you've got the tire irons, big enough hammer, patience, grease, and elbow grease, right?)<P>Mark

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Guest Skyking

PackardV8 & Mark, I have a Micro bubble balancer that I swear by. It does a great job on old wheels like the Buick road wheels or the Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels. I had alot of problems trying to get them balanced with a high-tech speed balancer. My brother owns a tire shop and even his newer high speed balancer can't get them as good as I can with the bubble balancer. With the bubble balancer I can hide the weights on the inside of the wheel.

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Finding water in a tire is easy to explain. Air heats as it's compressed and any humidity around the compressor intake vaporises, until it cools in the receiver tank. Then it condenses, turns into free moisture and can get in anything the saturated air goes in. Yes, it can throw things off balance.<P>Packard, I think I understand why you get some of the mess you've mentioned in your tires.<P>Maybe I've been lucky, but then I tend to take my tire bizness to people I know well and who don't have a problem with me being in the shop observing. Doesn't hurt that most of the tire changers in that shop know I'll slip 'em an extra ten bux or so if they do the job right- and they know I won't stand for more than a couple ounces weight per tire, and I like my lugnuts torqued with a wrench, not a torque stick. One of 'em went to great pains last year to weight the tire so the trim ring clips would mount properly and not hit the weights.<P>Or has the fine art of stroking died off completely? wink.gif" border="0

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Guest oldtimer

i used to work at a service station (texaco) about 2 yrs ago, i did most of the tire on older cars. it worked good, you just had to watch out for your fingers, use lots of lube and no chicken bones (that is the first time i heard of that, maybe they were using it for a lube and it fell in ?). i even balanced my friends '31 model a wire wheels on an older spin balancer (static). but it does help if you have been there awhile (i was there for 11 years, started in high school) or care about you work. I've as swapped rims at home, the hardest part for me was breaking the bead.

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Skyking,<P>Cool! What kind of bubble balancer do you have? I have some freshly painted red steelies with wide whites mounted, they are just waiting for a balance. I can't stand the thought of putting weights on the outside of these fresh wheels.<P>Mark

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Guest Skyking

Mark, it's a Mirco Precision model M76. It's an upright with the oil in the center. You sometimes see them at a car swap meets. People take them there to sell cheap, so they don't have to cart them home again. If you see any, make sure there is oil inside the housing and that the bubble is clear......

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bubble balancing requires weights on BOTH sides of the wheel. 2 outside AND 2 inside. using 2 ON EACH SIDE is what eliminates any additional dynamic unbalance. The dynamic balance (or inbalance) is really not an issue until somewhere about 120 -150 mph so it i doubt that it applies to most of our cars. IF the wheel requires very little weight to balance, say less than a 1/2 oz then sometimes i'll just hang 1 weight on it. Many years ago i used a Bean visuliner which did static AND dynamic balance independently but that is too time consuming for most retail shops and the machine is about the size of 2 large cloths washers.<P>IF your wheels are balanced with weights on ONLY ONE SIDE (regardless of method used) then it is doubtful that any Dynamic balance was considered in the process.

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Guest 53and61

Poor man's balancer: On a front knuckle, adjust the bearing load so that the play is barely taken up--no preload at all. Adjust the star so that the brake shoes do not touch the drum at all. Mount the wheel/tire to be balanced. The tire will rotate until the heavy point is down. Add appropriate weight to top to compensate. If there's no drag, this method will detect 1/2 ounce out-of-balance. Divide weights evenly between inside and outside of rim to minimize dynamic out-of-balance. Works fine.

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