Guest sintid58 Posted November 10, 2001 Share Posted November 10, 2001 I SAW THE PICTURE OF SOMEONE CHECKING THERE BRAKE FLUID IN THE BUGLE A COUPLE MONTHS BACK AND WHEN I WAS AT THE BDE I HEARD SOME TALK ABOUT SILICONE BRAKE FLUID. I HAVE NEVER HEARD BUT DOES BRAKE FLUID BREAK DOWN OVER TIME AND DO YOU NEED TO CHANGE IT REGULARLY. I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS AND AS I DRIVE MY OLD BUICKS QUITE A BIT AND AM TAKING MY 58 TO TORONTO THIS COMING SUMMER WOULD LIKE AS MUCH INFO AS CAN BE PROVIDED. <BR>THANKS VERY MUCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted November 10, 2001 Share Posted November 10, 2001 Check the discussion tread at:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002430" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002430</A> <P>JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted November 10, 2001 Share Posted November 10, 2001 If you switch any cars with hydraulic stop light switches to silicone fluid, you should carry an extra switch with you as they only work so long with the silicone fliud. I have never found an answer to why they fail, but they do . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 I had to replace my stop light swith in Galena this year, that was where I heard John Koutro (parden the spelling John)talking about silicone brake fluid. In fact I followed him for a couple days because he liked the way I didn't tailgate him because his brakelights werent working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 Buy the way Joe, was that thing they showed in the bugle a tool to see how much moisture is in your brake fluid? If so can you buy them anywhere and how expensive are they, like most car nuts I have to many cars around to pay someone else to work on them. Thanks Sid----(white GSX in Deadwood tan 58 in GAlena) Still love to hear you sing on the CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 Brake fluid can suck the moisture right out of the air. If it gets too much water in it, it can boil and you will loose your brakes. Generally you should replace all fluids every three years. You should replace brake fluid sooner if you have left the cap off the reservoir for a long period of time. Also when you store opened bottles of brake fluid make sure the caps are on as tight as possible to keep the air out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 Bill Schoening is the person with the Brake fluid tester. I do not know anything about it. You can contact him at:shoen@noao.edu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest COMPACTBC Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 Wagner Brake Products makes some test strips that they call "Wet Test" which will tell you the moisture content of your brake fluid. Brake fluid that has too much moisture in will also cause your master and wheel cylinders to rust internally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 THANKS TO ALL FOR ANSWERS. FROM THE LOOKS OF THINGS I WILL CHANGE MY FLUID TO MAKE SURE AND THEN TRY TO KEEP AN EYE ON CONTAMINATION. LOOKS LIKE I HAVE A WINTER PROJECT AHEAD OF ME. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasBorchers Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 sintid58: Manufacturers of brake fluid recommend to change brake fluid all 2 or 3 years. It is important to do this. Otherwise you could get problems with rust in wheel and master cylinder. <P>Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 I like to open up a bleeder and pump out the old fluid until the M/cyl is about empty,fill it with new fluid,then open each bleeder until fresh fluid comes out.When you replace an old master cylinder, whenever possible ,replace an old,air-vented unit with one having a diaphragm. Brake fluid (Conventional) takes in water like a sponge,causing deterioration and problems,The diaphragm units keep the same small amount of air next to the fluid as opposed to having air drawn in constantly,as is the case with the old units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Old Guy ~ RE: your question as to why hydraulic brake light switches fail when using silicone fluid. It is my understanding that the fluid eventually seeps into the electrical part of the switch and then acts as an insulator effectively preventing the contact from being made.<P>The life span of these switches is apparently quite variable. I put silicone fluid and a new switch in a car in 1987 and never had a problem. Then this spring I had no stop lights, so I bought a new switch. When I went to install it I found one of the wires had come loose, I connected the wire and presto, stop lights. That's 14 years on one switch which ain't too bad. ~hvs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickNut Posted November 16, 2001 Share Posted November 16, 2001 Looks like I'm in trouble when I pull some of my cars out of storage for restoring. I did the brakes and lines completely in my '49 Super and '73 Century GS, and used silicone brake fluid in both. They've spent extended periods in storage without being run or moved ....looks like I'm going to have to redo the brakes all over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 18, 2001 Share Posted November 18, 2001 Dumb question! Whats wrong with the standard brake fluid that has stopped millions of cars just fine over all these decades.<P>I have replaced a handfull of wheel cylinders,fewer calipers,one clutch slave and one clutch master never a brake master. All this and I rarely have owned a vehical that was under 100,000 miles at least for long, and usually put from 70,000 to 100,000 on them. All with standard brake fluid and never a brake failure or visible signs of "water?". <P>Its good to flush out your system but I rarely do. Only when I've replaced wheel cylinders or brake lines (that rusted from the outside).<P>Products is products, just my opinion. I dont believe in miracles. (like the 80 miles per gallon carb?)yea right.<P>The 86 Riviera I just bought has been off the road since 96 the rotors were rusty but the brakes still worked just fine. Then once I knew all was working I cleaned the rust off the rotors, syphened of the master and cleaned the black sediment out then bled the lines and cylinders. Brakes are great, and all my vehicals still have the same kind of fluid in them. Therefore I only need one kind of brake fluid in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 2dr.ltd Posted November 18, 2001 Share Posted November 18, 2001 logging in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 18, 2001 Share Posted November 18, 2001 86 2dr ~ one of the reasons you have not had problems is that you put miles on your car. Silicone is especially good for cars that often sit for long periodsof time.<P>Buick nut ~ Unless you have some leakage problem now, I do not see where you have a problem. Your cars seem to be perfect candidates for silicone brake fluid. If the brake lite switch happens to be the problem, replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted December 7, 2001 Share Posted December 7, 2001 I had to replace the brake light switch on my 50 Roadmaster. I found the switch at the local antique Ford parts supplier. The switch is the same and that was the only place I could find one without ordering from out of the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 At the Buffalo meet, I had Leica bring their moisture checking device in for a tech session.<BR>You put a drop of brake fluid on the unit and it measures the moisture content. After the indoor video, we went out to the area where the Blackhawk trailer was parked and sampled brake fluid from several Reattas and a couple of other Buicks. <P>I intend to write an article for the Bugle but it always gets pushed back into the pile...... bottom line...... Dot 3 brake fluid will absorb about 1-2% moisture per year. Not only does this cause a problem with rust and corrosion, but 3% moisture will lower the boiling point 100 degrees (F) This could be a major problem if you live in the mountains, tow, or race. It becomes fairly easy to boil the fluid.<P>My concern was on the Reatta with factory ABS. There are more (expensive) components in the brake system that can be affected by moisture. The corrosion particles can float in the fluid and damage seal and other sliding components.<P>Humidity varies across the US so the possibility of moisture contamination is greater in Miami than in Flagstaff. <P>The Leica unit shown is about $100, they have a new digital device but I do not know the cost.<P>Barney Eaton BCA technical advisor for Reattas and keeper of the database Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 Do the 1950 to 1958 Buicks use the Bendix TredleVac power brake units?????? If so, then where do Buick owners get rebuild kits for the Master Cylinder??? I need one for my 56 Packard. Probably need one for for the power unit too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 URU PackardV8....<P>You may find this set of links of interest:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.1956packardpanther.com/index-page46.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.1956packardpanther.com/index-page46.html</A> <BR> <A HREF="http://www.1956packardpanther.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.1956packardpanther.com/</A> <P>JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AWBE Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 URU PACKARD----try calling Ed Strain@1-800-266-1623. He advertises 48 hour turnaround and cost to rebuild Master cylinder and Power Booster is around $200. He got my 1955-76R Booster today. I hope the 2 day turnaround is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted August 17, 2002 Share Posted August 17, 2002 I'm going thru a spasm right now because of contaminated brake fluid from car being rarely driven the last ten years. Add to it that all the brake fittings are frozen and no amount of heat or PB Blaster has broke them loose. They have to be broken because all the wheel cylinders must be replaced- beyond rebuilding. Once the new Inline Tube repop lines are on and all new hydraulic parts in place, this one will go on the same biennial brake fluid flush schedule the others are on. A buddy and I take a day every year to do this on our combined fleet of seven old cars.<P>I'm using Valvoline SynPower DOT 3/4 fluid. Compatible with other DOT 3/4 fluids and has outrageously high wet and dry boiling points. It works especially well in my Toronado, which, with all that weight on the front, taxes a drum brake system hard. It never had the best brakes to start, but they're not near as scary with the SynPower fluid in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now