BuickNut

I need a good pair of '73 Regal or Gran Sport Tail lights (...these are different from the base Century tail lights..)...anybody ? Thanks.

I had a '78 Skyhawk with the Buick V-6 and 4 speed....I am sorry now I got rid of it back in '88...though it WAS rusting quite a bit. I put a lot of worry free miles on it...but engineering on it was terrible. You had to unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine to replace the starter...plus as was usual for that era and STILL - getting anything under the dash was a huge chore. But the car was very reliable - though terrible in the snow even with 300lbs worth of sandbags over the rear wheels - with good snow tires to boot !...but I do miss it..

Hi...I am going to start painting my chassis, and will be driving the car quite a bit...its almost an everyday driver once I'm done - has anybody had any experience with Corroless (now Eastwood calls it Rust Encapsulator and instead of a single step - its part of a 3 step process where you need a rust converter, and a final top coatover the Rust Encapsulator...) or with Zero Rust ? I've found POR-15 may be good for garage queens - but not for anything seeing any type of regular use without even exposing it to winter even... Thanks. Ray

Thanks for the tips...I'm going to give them a try....though the bad thing is that out of the blue, after just reinstalling the battery (same one...), it started like nothing was wrong..... I have previously cleaned all the connections (including battery, to and from ground, and the starter...)....so I think maybe it was a dead spot on the starter.....

My dad has a '67 skylark with a V-8. It ran fine, then out of the blue the starter won't do anything. No clicking, no slow turning - nothing but the idioit light coming on the dash. We checked the battery with a hydrometer - was fully charged and all the cells were good. We also changed the solenoid (we had a new extra on for emergencies...), and no change. Might it be either the starter, ignition switch, or the neutral safety switch ? Thanks. Ray

While I wouldn't recommend the paint for panel rust, I did use POR-15 engine paint system on my "everyday through Michigan winters" Ranger when I rebuilt the engine - and the paint stayed without burning off for about 3-4 years....I think they make it in Buick red too.

Hi..I'm looking for a grill, mustache bar for grill, taillights & chrome, hood bombsight, chrome for hood emblem, and gas tank. Do you have these, and what shape/price ? Thanks. Ray Seigle

Bump...anybody have these ?

Bump....anybody know where I can get a good pair of taillights ? thanks...

I'm looking for a pair of tail lights for a 1973 Buick Regal or GS....note they're different from the Century tail lights. Thanks.

Bump......still looking for these tail lights in better than driver condition if possible.......

..bump again.....

......can't help with the value estimation, but as to finding parts, either get online to Hemmings Motor News, or I would strongly suggest you get a subscription to the magazine. Hemmings has ALWAYS been the "Bible" to old car restorers. Its pretty good at having vendors listed that sell parts you can't find on Ebay, or online through other vendors. It always is my fall back for finding parts. Good luck.

Bump.....anybody have these willing to part with them ?

HI...I need the tail light lenses from a 1973 Buick Century GS. This is different from the normal Century, as the GS has 4 horizontal plastic chomr bars across the lenses. These may also be the same as are on the Regal. Thanks.

HI, Was wondering of those with full size 60's/70's cars who switched to urethane suspension bushings have experienced rides that were considered harsh. I realize the ride will be firmer, but is the ride too harsh beyond just adding to the tighter suspension ? Any recommendations to a shock absorber to use ? Thanks. Ray

HOw many of these shocks do you have, and what is the asking price for the lot of them ? Shipping to Canton Michigan 48188 ? Thanks.

Thanks for the input everybody.......

The filter was changed both times with the oil change. The second oil/filter change improved the pressure some, but it still is very low upon acceleration and highway speeds. I'm going to try and put in a new oil pressure sending unit and see if that migh not be the problem.......guess I just can't beieve the oil pump could be fine one day, and kaput the next......

I got my '73 out of mothballs for a few weeks, then put it back in. Engine ran fine for the first few weeks, changed the oil and filter before starting, and pressure was fine for the first few weeks. Just before I put it back in storage, the oil pressure would drop terribly low when I was doing highway speeds (65 mph), or when I jumped on it, and then return to normal pressure when doing 40 mph.......might it sound like an oil pump problem ? Oil level was fine, and the oil and filter was changed twice the first few weeks it was on the road......... Thanks.

Anybody know of the filtering capabilities of the K&N Filterchargers ? I have them in some of my vehicles, and noticed an increase in "seat of the pants" acceleration, but now that I think about it, I'm not sure of the actual filtering capatilities of the unit.........

If you can get your hands on some 'PB BLASTER" instead of WD-40, this might help. PB BLASTER is a much better penetrate. I would suggest over a 2-3 day span, spray soak the spindle to drum interface, the wheel lug to drum interface. I would also use the hammer as well. I have had some success using this, but have had other times where I had to rent or borrow a drum puller, or a huge wheel puller capable of fitting over the drum OD (outside diameter...). However, even when using a big wheel puller/gear puller, I have also found I had to use the hammer and PB Blaster as well. Hope this helps.

As long as we're on the subject, what makes a good tow vehicle if you're only towing once in a great while (when the darn thing breaks down far from home..) ? Could you get by with a small truck ('V6 Ranger 4x4), or would it make more sense to just go to U-Haul, rent a truck and one of those car "dollies" that only carry either front or rear tires off the ground ? Just curious.......... I always wondered given that I have only hauled with my Ranger once and only 5 miles to store the car, if it wouldn't make sense to just rent.......

My Dads '52 Buick Super 4 door has the dynaslush going down and in need of a rebuild. Given that he drives is fairly often, at highway speeds, and in town stop and go, I was wondering what overdrive we could put in there, and what mods would have to be made to the rest of the drive train...(replace torque tube, change rear end ?). I guess I just don't trust the old dynaflow that much to just go ahead and rebuild it... the car has less than 45k miles on it, and is just a nice driver, and he does drive it regular whether permitting with no snow, in the Ohio winters.........any suggestions ? (.....just drrrrriven that Buick as it was meant to ! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> )

How much would a "properly built" 200 R4 cost, and does anybody know of a reputable tranny place around the Detroit area that might do it ? I'm thinking that if I might add a 200 R4, plus a Pertonic unit in the distributor to replace the points, it might add up to a pretty hefty fuel savings, plus wear and tear on the engine. I have problems as my cars can keep up with the traffic, but the RPMs are so high, about 3500-3800, or so, I would prefer not cruising at that for very long. It might not immediately make up for the cost, but I keep my cars for decades, so over the long haul, it MIGHT make sense if its reliable. Any ideas on cost of reputable Detroit place to have it done ? Thanks.