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Broken bolt heads help


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So I was attempting to remove the bolts for the choke stove I snapped one and one was already snapped off previously I broke an extractor bit off in one of them any tips one getting this out without taking off the manifold and risking snapping more bolts to take to a shop 

20240725_131217.jpg

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If your car is drivable I suggest bringing it to a garage (auto repair shop). Looks as though the intake can remain in place.

The bolt it's broken. The easyout is broken. The only thing left is to break a drill bit in the easy out.

Let a seasoned set of hands take it from here. 

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1 hour ago, gungeey said:

If your car is drivable I suggest bringing it to a garage (auto repair shop). Looks as though the intake can remain in place.

The bolt it's broken. The easyout is broken. The only thing left is to break a drill bit in the easy out.

Let a seasoned set of hands take it from here. 

The shops I called said said they can't do it they referred me to a tap extraction shop that will Lazer it out for 45 bucks per hole but I would need to take off the manifold I just got a tungsten carbide dremel bit I'm going to try it 

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Removing broken bolts like this is an art that doesn't always exist in places you would expect. The method of removal is dependent on variables. I can't see the broken bit. Hopefully it was not drilled into the edge catching the threads. 

 

So $45 a hole to remove broken bit, or the whole bolt? If the latter for that and a new set of intake gaskets seems pretty reasonable. Bolts retaining the intake manifold should be extremely low risk to break.

 

Or another option....being just a choke stove, seal it down with "The Right Stuff" gasket sealer and with the one good bolt it will stay put and move on to other things!

 

Using conventional drill twist extractor method on rusted bolts like this is not usually my preferred way. I build up the end of the broken stud with weld, then put a nut over the build up and weld the nut to it, let it cool, then heat the area around stud super hot with oxy/acetylene torch and remove.

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8 hours ago, mcvalencia said:

Anyone know where I can find this gasket

DSC00970_480x480.jpg

Probably only available as part of an intake manifold gasket set...

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So I was able to get it out with a dremel last night I'm going to just drill em out and helicoil the holes today I found some gasket material that withstand up to 1200 f that I'm going to use I can't find that gasket in any set

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4 hours ago, mcvalencia said:

That's where I got the Pic but it's out of stock I'm looking all over and that's the only place I can even find a picture

Sounds like you’ll be making your own 🤨

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See why I said I hate fooling with choke stoves in the other thread?🙂

 

Glad you got the bolts out.

 

Is that choke well open to the crossover passage? Most I've seen have a recess cast into the manifold that the divorced choke's thermostatic spring sits in, using the hot cast iron to actuate it. Looks like this one has a sheetmetal well that the bottom is exposed to exhaust gas.

 

Did any of these engines use a hot air choke? Maybe Buick used the same manifold for both hot air and thermowell chokes? 

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On 7/26/2024 at 3:42 PM, rocketraider said:

See why I said I hate fooling with choke stoves in the other thread?🙂

 

Glad you got the bolts out.

 

Is that choke well open to the crossover passage? Most I've seen have a recess cast into the manifold that the divorced choke's thermostatic spring sits in, using the hot cast iron to actuate it. Looks like this one has a sheetmetal well that the bottom is exposed to exhaust gas.

 

Did any of these engines use a hot air choke? Maybe Buick used the same manifold for both hot air and thermowell chokes? 

This one's open it has a cup that go's in before it

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