Starting issue 1929 Chrysler 75

[BlueDevil]

I am having trouble getting my 75 to start. This is after rebuild with a lot of care on setting up the cam, crank, generator and distributor alignment. Valves have been clearanced.

 

It turns, has spark at the plugs, the points and condenser are new and are set right, timing is not 180 out, has fuel to the carb. Got one backfire thru the carb with either.

 

Things I found were one of the distributor cap pins that pierces the ignition wire, was located off center and didn't pierce the wire. Shaved one side and was able to get the pin to pierce the wire. Checked continuity on all distributor terminals to plugs and all are ok and are installed correctly.  No cracks in the cap, the rotor is good, plug and plug wires are new.

 

Point gap was too small and the slots in the screws that hold the points in were worn to the point you couldn't tighten them. They were replaced. Did the TDC checks and verified valve position.

 

PO fitted a electric fuel pump and it gets gas to the carb, which was rebuilt. Advancing/retarding the dizzy doesn't change anything.

 

Looking for some fresh eyes/brains. Tomorrow I plan on starting at ground 0 and checking everything again.

[alsancle]

Can the distributor go in backwards?

[BlueDevil]

I put in both ways, no difference.

[Oldtech]

Check the spark at the plug. Pull a wire off and situate it 1/4 inch from a headbolt and have someone spin the engine. You should get a good spark every 2 revolutions. 

Set the timing so that with the spark lever retarded,  the points open just at, or slightly after TDC. 

 

[BlueDevil]

I think I am on to something.

 

I have satisfied myself that the car is properly timed, points are adjusted and spark is getting to the plugs, that leaves fuel and air as the only issue.

 

Since is backfired once, I believe that it has compression, but I ordered a Model A Ford 14mm spark plug adapter to hook up my compression gauge to be sure.

 

I started to think about vacuum and this car has had the vacuum tank bypassed for the electric fuel pump.

 

I checked the intake and the vacuum port is open to the atmosphere and is located probably 4-6 inches up stream from the carb. since it has a 45 degree adapter to get the BB-1 to fit around the generator.

 

My thinking is it is pulling air directly from the atmosphere without going thru the carb.

 

I will plug it with a 1/8" NPT plug and see what that does.

 

 

 

 

[BlueDevil]

That was it. Put in the plug and for the first time in probably 40 years, it fired right up.

 

 

[marcapra]

Great to hear that.  Sometimes it's just the little things that don't conform to the big things like spark, timing, carburetor, etc.  And a little thing that most guys here would not even know about was the culprit.  

[BlueDevil]

Since it starts, I didn’t have to do a compression check. When I looked into how I would check it I found I didn’t have an adaptor that fit an 7/8” plug. I sourced a Model A Ford adapter that allows you to use 14 mm plugs. Problem solved,

[tcslr]

Good for you. Since you have the proper fixture, there is some wisdom in baseline compression test especially as the engine is newly rebuilt - cold and hot. 

[BlueDevil]

Tcsir,

 

Good point, particularly since I am about to get the rebuilt Red Head engine in my 72 installed. It will be interesting to see what the difference is between them

[tcslr]

Let me know. My 75 is a standard silver dome. I’m interested how much the red head increases things. 
my car runs well. Great tour car. Tom