1937 Chrysler Royal

[GAER]

I am restoring a 1937 Chrysler Royal with an inline 6.

Looking for anyone that may have worked on one in the past. Its been apart for a few years and I seem to have lost track of a few things.

- how to mount the chrome to the door exterior, the body has clips but the doors only have small holes so the clips don't work

- is there a good way to flush the block so there isn't much for contamination when you start it up

Any help would be appreciated

[24Chry48]

The door trim is held on by wire clips. Google "Restoration Specialties." Click on "shop by categories." Scroll down to  wire clips, it's at the bottom of the page. Click on that. The very first wire clip shown is the style you want. You'll have to call them to see which size slides into your trim piece, but that is the style clip you need. 

[neil morse]

Try contacting your fellow countryman @keithb7.  He has a '38 Royal and is very knowledgeable on MoPar flatheads.

[keithb7]

 

Thanks Neil. @GAER I recommend you watch some of my YouTube Instructional videos. Some feature my ‘53 Chrysler Windsor, my ‘38!Plymouth, or my ‘38 Chrysler Royal.  They are all very similar. Most all of the knowledge you pick up is shared between all cars. 
 

I don’t know enough detail about your engine to make specific suggestions. In general there can be tons of sediment in the block. Open your block drain spout. Does coolant flow out? Consider removing your rad and sending it to a rad shop for a good internal cleaning.  Some videos here:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GAER]

Thanks,

I did find your videos and the one on removing the water distribution tube very helpful. 
I'm just concerned that there is a bunch of debris in the engine that will only come out with running it. 

Edited April 1 by GAER (see edit history)

[keithb7]

A good way to get rid of anything in the block to remove the lower block plugs near the distributor and rinse everything out. Install new plugs. 

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Looks great. Keep it up. Mike

[Gunsmoke]

When I had the head off my 1931 CD8 engine (which appeared to have never been serviced internally), and before refitting it (just the valve train), I removed all the frost plugs and gave the cooling passages a thorough cleaning. Used several methods to remove sediment of all sorts, some of which was packed solid and preventing circulation of any kind in some areas, particularly at back end of engine furthest from rad (7th and 8th cylinders). These engines were known to have cooling issues at back end of engine. I had access to most areas via frost plug holes, coolant holes at top of block, water pump opening etc, I used various stiff rods, a flexible magnetic rod, flexible home made small dia vacuum attachment, and compressed air. Took 2-3 hours and about 2 cups of rust and other water impurity deposits came out and eventually flushed thoroughly. Did same exercise on head, although that was much easier as it can be turned over and placed on end, and even knocked gently on end to dislodge stuff. Also had rad flushed and checked at same time. When I eventually put everything back together and fired up engine for a few minutes, coolant ran clean and engine came up to correct operating temp and stayed there.