Slawnski Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Rough night in the shed. Tried percussive therapy on the rear spring swivel. Backed the bolt of 5-6 threads and the shackle started to move a bit, backed out the bolt another few threads with not such a great result. I’ll need to replace this bolt. - bent the head over a few degrees or so I tried hitting the grease fittings and found my grease gun in its case with melted grease all over the bottom of the case. I had a tube of Lucas oil tacky grease in it and the grease liquified. (?) Cleaned that up and loaded a fresh tube of red grease. Greased all the fittings in the brake assembly and arms. I then tried to load the two frozen shackles but they weren’t having it. More soaking tonight. kingpin keeper/retaining bolts not budging either. Calling it a night… 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 (edited) I managed to get one rear spring pivot freed tonight. A little heat and percussive therapy. The second one is very much stuck. I’ve pulled out the old standby in an attempt to get some relief. The old crockpot of antifreeze. Soaking carburetor bodies in here does wonders for stuck butterflies / bushings. We’ll see if it works after cooking in there overnight. Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it…. Edited July 3 by Slawnski (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 (edited) Cleaned up the shaft as best I could and polished off as much of the marred bits as I could I cleaned these up and prepped for paint. Edited July 3 by Slawnski Spelling errors (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 Epoxy primed one rear shackle pivot, fuel tank straps, u-bolts for rear springs, steering arms and the fuel tank Not a bad night 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 4 Author Share Posted July 4 Soooo the ol’ crock pot of antifreeze may have helped a smidgeon but I ended up with a hammer, impact socket drift and the vice to persuade the shaft out…. These things must have not been greased for a very long time. I must always remember to keep the chassis points lubricated. So important. I put these pieces back in the hot antifreeze. I’ll clean them up tomorrow. I cleaned up the rear spring mounts that clamp to the rear axle- very greasy - I’ll sandblast these tomorrow along with the pieces in the crock pot, rear springs, and front axle. Tomorrow will be a big day for sandblasting- In the cabinet and outside. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 4 Author Share Posted July 4 Quite a bit done today so far- All spring perch mounts sandblasted and ready for paint. Rear springs sandblasted and front beam ready for primer. Epoxy primer today and if there’s time final paint before bed. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 4 Author Share Posted July 4 Epoxy primer done. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 That’s a wrap for today. A couple coats of finish on tank, springs, and front beam. One coat on brackets. I ran out of paint before I could 2nd coat the brackets- I kinda thought it was going to be close. tomorrow a lot of grass to cut, then I’ll start hanging brackets and pieces- at least hang them to get them out of the way. After that front hubs. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 Front and rear springs hung today- front beam as well. It’s starting to look like something. Front hubs/ brakes next. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 One big disappointment: the replacement fuel tank I bought is the wrong one. Could be for a master series? It’s a little wider and the gauge neck is further away from the filler neck. Super rookie move to not have even compared the two prior to having it boiled/ cleaned/sealed. Replacement tank on top- old tank on the bottom- for reference. I can patch the old one but I’ll need to replace the neck for the gauge as well- the old one crumbled at the threads. if anybody has a line on a tank I’m looking again… I can sell this one if anybody needs one. It’s a little lumpy but it’s been sealed recently never had fuel in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 Front backing plates/ brake assemblies. I’ll start on these tomorrow 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 19 hours ago, Slawnski said: One big disappointment: the replacement fuel tank I bought is the wrong one. Could be for a master series? It’s a little wider and the gauge neck is further away from the filler neck. Super rookie move to not have even compared the two prior to having it boiled/ cleaned/sealed. Replacement tank on top- old tank on the bottom- for reference. I can patch the old one but I’ll need to replace the neck for the gauge as well- the old one crumbled at the threads. if anybody has a line on a tank I’m looking again… I can sell this one if anybody needs one. It’s a little lumpy but it’s been sealed recently never had fuel in it. I know the pain of these tanks. My 1925 standard tank was leaking along where the straps held it in place. The gage tower has a broken bezel and a piece of plastic glued into place. No gage. It was also mangled and missshapen probably by using a pipe wrench trying to remove the bezel. I purchased a 1927 Standard tank and spent days trying to finess the bezel and gage off the tower. Very trying work but I was able to get things out. I only broke the glass. When I sent the tank out to get cleaned the top looked like a swiss cheese! He had a lot of soldering to do befor the coating process. At least I was able to salvage the gage. Comparison of size between the standard and Master gage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 2 hours ago, dibarlaw said: I know the pain of these tanks. My 1925 standard tank was leaking along where the straps held it in place. The gage tower has a broken bezel and a piece of plastic glued into place. No gage. It was also mangled and missshapen probably by using a pipe wrench trying to remove the bezel. I purchased a 1927 Standard tank and spent days trying to finess the bezel and gage off the tower. Very trying work but I was able to get things out. I only broke the glass. When I sent the tank out to get cleaned the top looked like a swiss cheese! He had a lot of soldering to do befor the coating process. At least I was able to salvage the gage. Comparison of size between the standard and Master gage. I’m thinking about removing the gauge bezel from the good tank and patching the original one but that will be a last resort- as always- you do fantastic work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 One backing plate assembly disassemvled, cleaned and epoxy primed. I was very tempted to pull both apart- but thought better of it left one intact so I have one to reference. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 I’m going to bolt the perimeter backing plate bits onto the plate before final paint. Hard to tell what was originally painted separately on the assembly at this point. I should have thought far enough ahead to buy the leather sleeves for the front end but I’ll have to install these a little further down the line. I contemplated removing the drum from the wheel and sandblasting/ painting that as well but I’ll tackle that when I get to the wheels. That process is not too far down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 Ok- bolting the perimeter pieces on isn’t a great idea- looks like there is some play in these pieces. I’ll need to wait until the brake band is in place and then install these pieces- waiting a couple more hours until I put the finish paint on tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 Finish paint on the brake parts and crossover tube. I ordered brake arm boots and dust seals from Bobs. It looks like the brake lining is relatively new. I have a line on a parts chassis in northern Illinois- I’ll go look at it tomorrow morning and see if at very least the fuel tank can be salvaged. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 Passenger side backing plate hub assembly installed. I’ll need to wait for the boots to complete each side. Next stripping, sandbasting priming and painting drivers side. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 Drivers side hub in epoxy primer. Finish paint in a couple hours- assembly tomorrow. Them onto the rear end. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 The new hardware really looks good holding the restored components together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 Just now, EmTee said: The new hardware really looks good holding the restored components together. Thanks EmTee! It’s really coming together nicely! Still a long way to go but I’m happy with the way it’s come together so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 Final coat of finish paint on front brake pieces. Used up one gallon of finish paint and a little less than that in epoxy primer so far. I’ll grab another gallon of paint tomorrow. Hub assembly then I’ll start to take the rear end down. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 6 minutes ago, EmTee said: The new hardware really looks good holding the restored components together. After you get all the components on I would make sure all of your hardware is tight. Since you're going full throttle on this you may miss something that you told yourself you would get back to later. Looking good. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 10 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said: After you get all the components on I would make sure all of your hardware is tight. Since you're going full throttle on this you may miss something that you told yourself you would get back to later. Looking good. Great advice. I keep telling myself that! I know I have a couple of the brake clamps loose at the moment waiting for the rear end brake linkages to go in and get adjusted/ into the place the’ll be living. I know there are also some cotter pins that need to be installed. Once the rear end goes back in and I have a rolling chassis again I’ll go over all components and double check fasteners. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 Drivers side assembled tonight. As soon as I get the boots we’ll final grease and tighten everything down. On to the rear end… 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 So, fun night! Man - the front brake assemblies are pretty simple compared to the rear. I removed the passenger side wheel, outer brake band, parking brake band, and the rods that actuate them on the passenger side. I’m pretty sure it’s not supposed to be that greasy…. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 Drivers side tomorrow- passenger wheel came off pretty easy- no so much for drivers side. Might need a puller. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 10 Author Share Posted July 10 PS rear brake bits. Rear spring bolt ( not sure of technical name) is bent. Not sure if heat or just pressure in the vice is the best shot at straightening. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 10 Author Share Posted July 10 Looks like the parking brake band pass side is pretty oily. I hit it with some brake cleaner but I’m pretty sure I’m going to need to replace the lining. I’ve got new seals coming - I’ll need to find parking brake lining and I’ll try to re-rivet I ordered a puller I will be modifying to pull the drivers side wheel. we’ll see if that works 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 Try McMasterCarr, I'm sure they have brake lining material. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Dort Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 11 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said: Try McMasterCarr, I'm sure they have brake lining material. They do, I just did all of the brake liners on my car. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/brake-lining/high-strength-brake-and-clutch-lining~~/ They have the hollow-end rivets too. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivets/hollow-rivet-type~hollow-end/ 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 I had to sand down the thickness as provided by my supplier for the internal band so it would fit. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 12 Author Share Posted July 12 Quick night in the shed- cut out the center section of the puller I received today ojust used a cut off disc and flap wheel 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 Can you bring back the set telling the store that there is an issue with the larger puller? 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 12 Author Share Posted July 12 22 hours ago, dibarlaw said: I had to sand down the thickness as provided by my supplier for the internal band so it would fit. What size rivets did you end up using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 Boots and clamps arrived today from Bob’s. Installed passenger side and final greased all fitting in this corner. I’ll get these on clean up front bearings and get wheels on. I need to move the chassis outside Sunday- I have another car in need of the lift for a handful of hours. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 Both sides done 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 Looks great! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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