Slawnski Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 3 hours ago, EmTee said: The head looks nice; I hope the hardened seats don't cause any trouble later... Oh boy….. what kind of trouble are we talking? Dropping out like a hardened bauble wrecking the head/ cylinder/ and piston? The machinist said the exhaust seat areas of all 6 were shot but I had him do the intakes too thinking with all new valves why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 I don't know that there will be any issue, though the seat coming loose would be the concern. All I can say is there are some on the Post War Buick forum who claim that nailhead engines should never have hardened seats installed. I just wondered why hardened seats would be necessary for a 100 year-old ultra low compression engine. Certainly seat erosion shouldn't be a concern even with unleaded fuel. If the inserts were installed because the original seats were too far gone to re-machine, then that's a different story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 EmTee- All the exhaust seats were toast. The machinist confirmed as much. There were a few intake that he said were salvageable but I had them do all intake and exhaust for the sake of uniformity. I thought I had pictures of the exhaust seats but I don’t think I do here are a few of the vale’s when I pulled them- looking for photos of the seats … Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 I think we are looking at intake on the right exhaust on the left. The exhaust valve has a weird step in it- indicative of all the exhaust valves- the intake on the right still has the 45ish degree taper. I can’t believe I didn’t take photos of the valve seats! In any case all the exhaust valves needed seats for certain. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 I don't like to use hard seats in antique engines unless they are absolutely necessary. I just do not trust them, never did. If I had a reasonable choice? I would never use them in any engine. Unfortunately, a few years ago we bought an older modern used very well cared for, very low mileage used car (just out of warranty). I think the Fates wanted to kick me in the @$$. Of course, the modern aluminum OHV had to have hardened seats in it. The "life expectancy" of the engine was generally said to be 200,000 plus miles, and it had just passed 100,000. Less than 2000 miles later it swallowed a valve and totaled the engine. On low rpm low compression engines, unless severe wear makes hardened seats absolutely necessary, they are really an unnecessary risk. Modern machinists are so busy thinking that they are so much smarter than the people that built these cars originally, that they automatically assume that ALL engines MUST have hardened seats and they set out to change them regardless of whether they need it or not! The valves being worn does not mean the seats need to be replaced. Only a critical examination of the seats can determine whether they can be reground slightly oversize or not. That is my opinion and some of my background for it. Probably offensive to some people. The odds are that your rebuilt head will be fine and give many many years of wonderful service! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stewart Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 Hi Jim Been following your exceptional work on restoring the Buick 6. I'm a novice as to regards to US built vehicles, ...what is a cotter pin on the valve stem? BTW i took delivery of my 1927 Master 6 (Brougham body) at Easter ...Held together by its upholstery..! On the subject of valve seat inserts...On cast iron heads after many rework sessions the valves get cut into the head. The rocker arms do not line up and consequently tappet settings are a nightmare. If the head cannot be replaced then the only solution is inserts. Good company in Germany will provide ceramics... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 The cotter pin through the hole in the valve stem (above the guide ) was a safeguard against a broken spring. If a valve spring broke the pin would prevent the valve from dropping and coming into contact with the piston. I like the safeguard myself. The cotter pin doesn’t interfere with the function of the valve at all- and the hole is already in the new valve stem. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 4 Author Share Posted May 4 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 A lot of cleaning and reorganizing today- I did manage to get the head painted. Hoping to install in the next few days. Sill on the fence about the pins in valve stems - with inner and outer springs a broken spring will not likely lead to catastrophe. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 12 hours ago, David Stewart said: Hi Jim Been following your exceptional work on restoring the Buick 6. I'm a novice as to regards to US built vehicles, ...what is a cotter pin on the valve stem? BTW i took delivery of my 1927 Master 6 (Brougham body) at Easter ...Held together by its upholstery..! On the subject of valve seat inserts...On cast iron heads after many rework sessions the valves get cut into the head. The rocker arms do not line up and consequently tappet settings are a nightmare. If the head cannot be replaced then the only solution is inserts. Good company in Germany will provide ceramics... Congratulations on acquiring the 27 Master 6 Brougham. Post photos when you can. How is the wood? I’m not looking forward to that part of this cars journey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 2nd coat of paint on the head and 2 coats black brushed on the generator / regulator and strap today. Brush marks should flatten out. I’ll need to find the distributor and make a gasket for the generator face where it mounts to the block. I’m also going to need to replace the wire from generator to regulator. T looks like regulator I have is too short- mounting hole to mounting hole if the right size is available I’ll source one 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 I didn’t realize the side cover does not cover the whole plug side of the head- added paint yesterday to correct. I cut out the generator gasket and cleaned the mounting bolts as well. The distributor still eludes me- 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Here’s the wire with damaged insulation I mentioned earlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Sunday at 03:44 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 03:44 AM The head and gasket were placed on the engine today. Found the distributor- it was in the last place I looked … 🙂 Distributor rebuild next and then we can install the generator. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted Sunday at 01:45 PM Share Posted Sunday at 01:45 PM 9 hours ago, Slawnski said: ...it was in the last place I looked … 🙂 That seems to happen a lot! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Sunday at 10:45 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 10:45 PM Installed the generator today. Realized I didn’t need the distributor - neccesarily. Generator in- figured I should hit the gears with assembly lube. Generator out- lubed the gears- generator back in. I have clamps and hoses coming from Bob’s along with manifold studs- moving right along. Distributor disassembly next 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmhowe Posted Monday at 12:47 AM Share Posted Monday at 12:47 AM That is a nice looking engine. I have been impressed by the fact that Buick engineers always seemed to come up with efficient designs without a lot of clutter. I enjoy watching your progress. Also appreciate the comments like, "Generator in- figured I should hit the gears with assembly lube. Generator out- lubed the gears- generator back in." I do that sort of thing all the time. A few years ago, I looked about, in hopes of buying a late 1920s Buick. At the time, I couldn't find one I could afford, and did find a 1928 Packard. I love the Packard, but I still have a soft spot for the Buicks. Thanks for posting. It's fun to follow your restoration. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Tuesday at 12:56 AM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 12:56 AM Disassembly of the distributor. I was getting spark waaaaay back when I first started in on this engine I replace points and condenser/ cap and rotor back then. I tried to remove the pin at the drive gear so I could clean everything but it wouldn’t budge so I didn’t press my luck. distributor body wire wheeled and painted. Clips and screws taking a dip in evaporust. I’ll put the guts back in tomorrow. Possibly get the clips painted. I’m grateful it’s not a pot metal distributor the body is a little rough but it will/should work just fine 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted Tuesday at 10:47 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 10:47 AM The mechanical advance and other internals look like they were in decent shape. The engine looks great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Wednesday at 02:06 AM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 02:06 AM (edited) Not much done in the shop. It’s been rainy the last couple of days and the paint on the distributor is still not dry. I hit the clips with the wire wheel- I have a couple other early distributors. I’m going to see if I have better clips I received a package from Bobs. Coolant hoses, clamps and a couple manifold bolts- the manifold bolts are a bit short and the unthreaded portion is much smaller compared to the others. we’ll see if they work. Edited Wednesday at 09:31 AM by Slawnski Spelling errors (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted Wednesday at 11:42 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 11:42 AM 9 hours ago, Slawnski said: I’m going to see if I have better clips The ones on my '38 were corroded and had lost their 'spring'. I bought a new set of clips from Bob's and they fit well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Wednesday at 11:44 AM Author Share Posted Wednesday at 11:44 AM 1 minute ago, EmTee said: The ones on my '38 were corroded and had lost their 'spring'. I bought a new set of clips from Bob's and they fit well. Ha! Better than scavenging a pair- adding clips to the list- thank you! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Thursday at 12:04 AM Author Share Posted Thursday at 12:04 AM quick night in the shop. Ran to NAPA and picked up longer manifold bolts- a little too long so they were cut down. I also ran a greased tap into the two missing stud threaded holes- both had some rusty bits where the old bolts had been parked. Put the new studs in and had to call it a night. I also wanted one more night for the pint to dry sufficiently to put the distributor together. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stewart Posted Thursday at 05:17 AM Share Posted Thursday at 05:17 AM All your hard work is starting to come together. Respect. My journey is just beginning....Bought 10 cu ft of air dried ask, slabbed out at 31mm (inch and a quarter)..Woodwork underway, mechanics being assessed. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted Thursday at 12:58 PM Share Posted Thursday at 12:58 PM 7 hours ago, David Stewart said: My journey is just beginning.... I hope you like puzzles! Looks like you have a real project ahead of you, but at least the car looks very complete. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Thursday at 01:13 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 01:13 PM (edited) 7 hours ago, David Stewart said: All your hard work is starting to come together. Respect. My journey is just beginning.... Oh my! Please keep us posted as the Woodwork proceeds… you’ve got a real project on your hands! Are you doing the wood replacement woth the body bolted to the chassis? I have yet to think that part through on my 27 7 hours ago, David Stewart said: Edited Thursday at 01:14 PM by Slawnski (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stewart Posted Thursday at 05:16 PM Share Posted Thursday at 05:16 PM Bits are falling off as I speak...Decided to built new wood body off the chassis, then reassemble when the old body woodwork is clear and the running gear is clean and refreshed...As can be seen from the pix there is nothing to attach the A and B posts to. Also the LHS post turned to dust! The impossible I do tomorrow : Miracles take a little longer... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Thursday at 06:34 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 06:34 PM Wow! My wood frame, at least in this area, is more “present” than yours. Very interested in your process with the wood replacement. I have a chassis to restore before I tackle the wood. I’m rooting for you! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted Thursday at 06:36 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 06:36 PM I’m assuming there are areas of the standard series frames are the same from model to model? I have the frame/body book butt have yet to dig too far/deep. Has any other Buick restorer published templates they used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Stewart Posted Thursday at 06:42 PM Share Posted Thursday at 06:42 PM I got the books from Fischer but as there are no dimensions ; it's all a mystery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted yesterday at 01:50 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 01:50 AM Finally was able to get the distributor back together. Couple notes- The springs are not equally springy- I’ll look to replace those There are washers that go under the weight pivots. Found that out the 3rd time I put the guts in. Clips only go on one way- mine are going to need to be replaced. Not very springy My pivot- (the shouldered screw that keeps the clamp from traveling too far and keeps the distributor from coming out-) has 3 washers. I’m certain that there were not 3 washers originally as tightening this screw puts too much pressure on the plate and moving the distributor with the lever/ rods from the steering wheel could prove to be difficult Engine at TDC, distributor centered in the clamp, rotor is pointed to the center of #1 at distributor cap. Lots of room for adjustments when it comes time to run. My distributor cap is very dirty- should have at least cleaned it before photos. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted yesterday at 01:55 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 01:55 AM Next are head bolts and pushrods/rockerarm installation. Followed by intake exhaust manifolds. I’m only planning on hand tightening the head bolts. I’ll need to pull a lot of things off when it’s time to install this motor - the head included. ( for cherry picker / lift points) I’ll just be assembling to keep all the parts together and in one place while I work on the chassis. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted 23 hours ago Share Posted 23 hours ago Great project, well done. I’ve always appreciated the detail on antique engines. I read somewhere that rope seals should be cut at an angle so the ends of the two halves overlap. Does that apply to cork? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted 10 minutes ago Author Share Posted 10 minutes ago (edited) 23 hours ago, Model56s said: Great project, well done. I’ve always appreciated the detail on antique engines. I read somewhere that rope seals should be cut at an angle so the ends of the two halves overlap. Does that apply to cork? Here the cork seals were cut slightly long - pressed into place overnight then and butted with a dab of sealant before the cap was torqued down. Time will tell how well it seals Edited 9 minutes ago by Slawnski (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted 6 minutes ago Author Share Posted 6 minutes ago Tonight I was able to get the pushrod assemblies cleaned up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted 3 minutes ago Author Share Posted 3 minutes ago (edited) I also disassembled the rocker assembly, cleaned and then reassembled with assembly lube. Edited 2 minutes ago by Slawnski Resorted photos (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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