Can't keep the engine gasses from running me out of the cab

[Skidplate]

So as usual it seems to have been a number of things. The oil leaking in around the spark plugs were probably one thing. The seal under the door, which I finally installed, seemed to have also helped a lot. I'm slowly getting the engine sealed to where there isn't much oil left to burn off. Tighten things. Spray it all off with brake cleaner. Drive it awhile. Check to see if tightening helped. Rinse. Repeat.
Still getting oil seeping out from the driver side engine vent. Not sure WHAT can be done for that. Maybe just live with it.
Thanks so much to everyone for helping. I guess it truly does "Take A Village". Until next time. Cheers 

 

Oh, and MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone.

[EmTee]

7 hours ago, Skidplate said:

Still getting oil seeping out from the driver side engine vent.

How full is the crankcase?  Try running just a quart above the 'add' line.

[Skidplate]

So maybe just keep it washed off until it stops then note the oil level on the stick? I pulled it earlier during the refresh (didn't actually rebuild the bottom end) just pulled anything that could be unbolted from the block and cleaned (and washed out) and repainted. Since then I've been filtering and changing the oil VERY often. So everything that breaths or seals or holds oil is all clean. Just recently got the engine clean throughout enough to not dirty up the oil real fast. I'm pretty sure this is not one of my oil burning/smoking problem areas. I don't think the block gets hot enough down there to smoke. Just keeping an eye on it.

[EmTee]

The 320 in my '38 Century holds 8 quarts to the FULL mark.  The ADD line is at 5 quarts, so there's a 3-quart 'operating range'.  All I'm suggesting is try running the oil level closer to the ADD mark to reduce the amount of windage.  It could be that much of that oil is being thrown at the vent.  Even if the oil isn't being directly thrown at the vent, oil fog whipped-up by the crank will still get pushed out the vent if blow-by is excessive.  Anyway, try running a lower oil level and see if it helps...

[daniel boeve]

Its all very simple when you ask me .There must be a little overpressure in the cabin , so when you drive you don't suck in the wrong air from the engine but from someplace else .That vent or how do you call that opens on top in front of the windscreen open it , those little windows turn them open  so fresh air is forced in instead of out of the cabin .

[Skidplate]

Haven't been able to test it more but it seemed that the door seal replacement helped it a lot. It's pretty cold and ugly here so I'll have to check it further once the weather clears some. To be continued. 

[kar3516]

On 12/26/2023 at 5:44 PM, daniel boeve said:

Its all very simple when you ask me .There must be a little overpressure in the cabin , so when you drive you don't suck in the wrong air from the engine but from someplace else .That vent or how do you call that opens on top in front of the windscreen open it , those little windows turn them open  so fresh air is forced in instead of out of the cabin .

On this subject I just watched a fascinating episode of Air Disasters (Smithsonian Channel) that reviewed the case of a tourist seaplane where the pilot became impaired by carbon monoxide poisoning and crashed the plane killing everyone aboard.  It was determined that the CO came from an exhaust manifold crack and then through the firewall from three bolt holes on inspection cover plates where the bolts were left off by mechanics.  After initial testing revealed that the CO should not have achieved a concentration high enough to impair the pilot during the short flight, further testing and review of pre flight actions revealed that before taking off the pilot had moved the plane by taxiing on the water BUT WITH THE DOOR OPEN.  This reduced cabin internal pressure and drew an enormous amount of CO through the cabin.  Subsequent simulation with another identical plane having the same three bolts removed and the door open caused the CO level to increase to fatal levels very quickly.  Moral of the story is no holes in the firewall and especially don’t help draw engine compartment air through the cabin at low speed.

[EmTee]

Look at the area around the clutch & brake pedals.  It's hard to seal the area too tightly, as the pedal shafts have to move and don't follow a precise arc (especially the clutch).  I made a gasket of sorts using an aluminized foil/honeycomb material I had on the shelf.  My issue wasn't exhaust gasses, however, it was heat coming in from the engine, exhaust manifold and head pipe.  My fix helped quite a bit, but the cowl area still gets quire warm from engine heat.  FYI, I have the engine mud guards/pans installed on both sides between the engine & frame.

[Skidplate]

Oo Oo, I've got one better. Pick me. Pick me. The moral of the story is... wait for it... "Never trust a taxi driver with an Open Door Policy. Get it? Open Door? I don't care what you say. That was funny. 😂

[nat]

     I suppose a CO detector should be used for these hair brained ideas: 

1)     See if the fumes are less noticeable with all the windows rolled up.

2)    Drive with the trunk lid unlatched to see if that makes it worse or better.  Do so with the windows both open and closed.

3)    Since you are young, nimble and small,  get in the trunk with a flashlight, line the gasket with newspaper, have a, (trusted), assistant close you in.  Check that the gasket pinches the newspaper all around.