BlueDevil Posted November 20, 2023 Share Posted November 20, 2023 For those not familiar, a Sneaky Pete is a tool that allows you to remove and install a rope type rear main without removing the crankshaft. Also says neoprene on the packaging. I just ordered one for my project and was really disappointed, so I went to ebate and found an original one that looked like is was stored in the basement about 60 years ago. The new version has kind of jaws while the old one had a basket similar to Chinese Finger cuffs for those that remember. All the wires were thicker and the handle was an aluminum bar vs the plastic one, that broke, on the new one. I went to the mail box, got the new old one and had the seal in in less than 15 minutes. Worked like a charm with the basket one, the other one not so much. Old was much more robust with the pulling wire being the strand type vs the solid thin one of the new type. So if you need one look around for the one with the wire basket end. In the first picture the old style is on the right with the packaging. Second pic is the grasping end. Big difference. The basket one has the seal in it. 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 20, 2023 Share Posted November 20, 2023 There are two things I think of when it comes to Sneaky Pete.............. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pete_Robinson_(drag_racer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted November 20, 2023 Author Share Posted November 20, 2023 The good one is a KD 2033, the new one is a Lisle 27000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcapra Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 I thought you were talking about this kind of Sneaky Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WPVT Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 I used one (chinese fingers) on my 1952 Chevy pickup, a 216 babbitt bearing 6 cylinder. I got the seal up and over ok, but it still ended up leaking. I tore the engine down determined to fix it once and for all. One issue was how much of the seal should protrude beyond the groove to give the seal some compressive "crush" when the two halves were bolted up and torqued. Suffice to say, I got it too tight. Once the engine was back in the truck, nothing would turn it over, neither the starter, nor towing with a chain. Dropped the pan and trimmed the seal ends with a razor blade. Then the engine turned over and ran, but it always leaked a little at the rear. Some said those rope seals always leaked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 I was at the Fall NHRA Nationals in 1963 when Pete won top Gas eliminator. I knew he used a small block but always thought it was a Chevy engine I read the article Ed posted and it said it was a small block Ford. Does anyone know if this is correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 I know a member of his pit crew. When I speak to him I will ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmhowe Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Thanks for an informative post. The old one looks like a tool that could also be helpful in installing water pump seals. Have you used it that way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 I have replaced many of those seals on 4 cylinder Red seal Continental engines without removing the engines from the frame. Remove the lower cap and push the upper cap punching it with a screw driver until it comes off the top grove. Fit the new seals in the groves and cut the excess about 010 thou ,at 4 ends . After about 2000 hours of use tighten the cap bolts a turn and a half. These seals always leak. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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