Electra63 Posted October 2, 2023 Share Posted October 2, 2023 Hello folks My front steering on my 63 Electra 225 is very sloppy and I've been told the idler arm and centerlink need attention/replacement/rebuild. I have the Saginaw setup by the way. From what I can tell there are a couple of places that will rebuild or provide refurb parts but the cost is very high - $300+ for each item. New seems to be non-existent I did see a centerlink on ebay for a 64 vehicle (link below) but the seller tells me it wont fit the 63 https://www.ebay.com/itm/194453279490 Is the seller correct? Was there a design change between 63 and 64 on the steering system? Any ideas how I can get this done (or changed out) without spending $600-700 just for the idler arm and centerlink? thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 2, 2023 Share Posted October 2, 2023 Rare Parts will rebuild the one from your car, however, the price is twice that of the one you found new... https://www.rareparts.com/RP25737A-25737-CENTER-LINK-MUST-HAVE-CORE-TO-REMAN?quantity=1&custcol_rp_part_location=FRONT%20UPPER&custcol_rp_part_application=411069&custcol_rp_vehicle=1963-Buick-Electra 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted October 3, 2023 Share Posted October 3, 2023 Unfortunately, each of the GM carlines did their own things as to how they engineered the cars, even for parts like steering components. Which means high prices for NOS items or to get the part rebuilt by a good company. IF you might find a salvage yard which still has an old Hollander Interchange Manual, which goes back that far, it would list the other vehicles for which steering parts on your car might interchange with and what it might take to get some others to work on your car. This might be a terrible "long shot", though. Even though, the parts for those interchanges might be unobtainium, too. When you do get the replacement items, seek out some Valvoline synthetic chassis lube with Moly in it, to meet the Ford spec for such. The synthetic grease lasts longer and the moly makes for a better frictional decrease, too. A win-win situation, to me. Available in grease gun tubes, too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Electra63 Posted October 3, 2023 Author Share Posted October 3, 2023 Thanks for the advice....its a shame there is so little commonality on those major components 🤔. I'll look into the rebuild option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanZverina Posted October 9, 2023 Share Posted October 9, 2023 Hi Electra 63, Another suggestion to solve the sloppy steering syndrome would be to go with a more responsive steering box, which made a huge difference in my '63 Riv, and may very well fit your Electra. Go the the Riviera site on this forum and look for Tom Telesco. He will rebuild your steering box with a quick ratio (QR) gearing. This mod really transformed my 63 Riv, essentially converting your box to an 808 QR. Tighter steering feel, better tracking, MUCH more responsive overall. He's very knowledgeable on Rivs and I imagine other big Buicks of the era. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Electra63 Posted October 9, 2023 Author Share Posted October 9, 2023 Thanks Jan. Great suggestion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 I have mentioned that I have disassembled and repaired a Buick center link in the past. That instance was a 1962 Electra that was our daily driver in the 1980s. If someone is rebuilding them anyone can with reasonable tools. I never looked into it but it should be easy to see if the same swivel ball joints are used in the center link and tie rod ends. Just compare the thread, ball size, taper, and length. The swivels on the center link are held in place by the round cap opposite the stud. Mine had small tack welds on the perimeter. A die grinder will take those welds off. I have a spare in my cellar with no spot welds. It should press out. With the swivels disassembled check for wear. I got lucky, there was a deteriorated plastic, maybe Teflon, sleeve over the stub that caused the play. I bought some Teflon tube lengths at a plastics supply house and made new ones. The balls and wear surfaces were fine so I cleaned it thoroughly and reassembled it, putting a small low temp Heliarch spot on the cap. Fresh grease and it was tight again. Had there been too much wear and the tie rod ends had the same swivel I would have bought a pair and used the internals. That may be what the rebuilder does. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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