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A 1932 Oldsmobile DCR in Belgium


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1 hour ago, chistech said:

I’ll have to check the numbers. I believe it might be the same as chevy. Got back from Hershey and been on the road servicing my packaging customers. I haven’t had enough time to do any research or to go looking through my parts as I have to dig all my boxes out to look through them. I will try and get some answers to you by the end of the week. Sorry. 

No problem, sir.

I understand.

Thanks for your effort

I you find the latches that would be nice and helpfull.

It take a lot of work to have the DCR in good condition.

 

Question; have you given your delco-lovejoy shocks an overhaul?

 those on my car don't work correctly, I don't think they work stiff enough and there is a spot where there is no resistense

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<wordpress@patriotbearingsupply.com> wrote:

The assembly that you need is 909024. This is all 3 pieces. The BCA part number for this is B24.

The ball & retainer is 909724.

got a response from these people today, Ted.

But these are not the numbers on the parts, they are 909623 outer part & 909523 for the inner part.

Also the letters N.D on them and made in USA.

confusing al these different numbers.

 

 

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ND = New Departure ( or sometimes NDH with Hyatt added) which, if it wasn't by then , eventually became  GM's in house bearing supplier. Just think of it as a brand name like BCA or TImken.

ND numbering for the era was pretty consistent for their front wheel ball bearings :

Complete assembly 9090xx  Yours would be 909023

Cup 9096xx                             Yours would be  909623

Cone 9095xx                            Yours would be 909523

Ball and retainer  9097xx        Yours would be 909723

 

I'd be surprised if the BCA cross reference numbers didn't include some element of the ND numbers so I'm not liking the reply you got.  Instead of B24 I think you should be looking for a BCA B23 to match what you have. B24 is likely correct for the inner set but i think what you are showing is the smaller outer set.

Both the 909023 and 909024 series were also used on 1929 to 31 small series Buicks according to the Master parts manual . Pretty sure that there will be a size difference as the smaller number will be outer and the larger one  inner

 

Be glad you are not looking for the '003' we need for 1925 Buicks!

 

Brad

 

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6 hours ago, bradsan said:

ND = New Departure ( or sometimes NDH with Hyatt added) which, if it wasn't by then , eventually became  GM's in house bearing supplier. Just think of it as a brand name like BCA or TImken.

ND numbering for the era was pretty consistent for their front wheel ball bearings :

Complete assembly 9090xx  Yours would be 909023

Cup 9096xx                             Yours would be  909623

Cone 9095xx                            Yours would be 909523

Ball and retainer  9097xx        Yours would be 909723

 

I'd be surprised if the BCA cross reference numbers didn't include some element of the ND numbers so I'm not liking the reply you got.  Instead of B24 I think you should be looking for a BCA B23 to match what you have. B24 is likely correct for the inner set but i think what you are showing is the smaller outer set.

Both the 909023 and 909024 series were also used on 1929 to 31 small series Buicks according to the Master parts manual . Pretty sure that there will be a size difference as the smaller number will be outer and the larger one  inner

 

Be glad you are not looking for the '003' we need for 1925 Buicks!

 

Brad

 

Thanks for info.

indeed, as can be seen in the photos.

When futher inspection i saw the inner bearing has some damage too in the outer ring.

Edited by demco32 (see edit history)
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On 10/10/2023 at 11:17 AM, demco32 said:

No problem, sir.

I understand.

Thanks for your effort

I you find the latches that would be nice and helpfull.

It take a lot of work to have the DCR in good condition.

 

Question; have you given your delco-lovejoy shocks an overhaul?

 those on my car don't work correctly, I don't think they work stiff enough and there is a spot where there is no resistense

The shock valving is adjustable with the lever on the top. In one position there will be little to no resistance. This would be the "soft" position on the dash mounted handle. If you move the handle to  firm it changes the valving to get more resistance. The still isn't a lot of resistance in the old shocks.

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16 hours ago, chistech said:

The shock valving is adjustable with the lever on the top. In one position there will be little to no resistance. This would be the "soft" position on the dash mounted handle. If you move the handle to  firm it changes the valving to get more resistance. The still isn't a lot of resistance in the old shocks.

I understand how the shocks work, Ted

It is in the shop manual and how to adjust.

"The still isn't a lot of resistance in the old shocks." ; I would assume there should be good resistance otherwise the shock absorbers are of no use.

The up and down movement of the arm that is connected to the leaf spring pushes the piston for and backwards and pushes the oil.

I assume there is a seal inside to control he flow of the oil. It could be on the control valve this seal.

Or the control valve works with a spring inside with a steel ball  that give other tension in deferent position.

The flow of the oil will make the shock absorber work more or les stiffer.

If there is like a blind spot in the resistance when moving the shock absorber arm that give me the impression there is something not correct.

I need to see the internal parts to understand what could be wrong.

There is no explanation in the manual how to disassemble the shocks.

This needs more and closer investigation.

 

 

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On 10/11/2023 at 3:36 AM, bradsan said:

ND = New Departure ( or sometimes NDH with Hyatt added) which, if it wasn't by then , eventually became  GM's in house bearing supplier. Just think of it as a brand name like BCA or TImken.

ND numbering for the era was pretty consistent for their front wheel ball bearings :

Complete assembly 9090xx  Yours would be 909023

Cup 9096xx                             Yours would be  909623

Cone 9095xx                            Yours would be 909523

Ball and retainer  9097xx        Yours would be 909723

 

I'd be surprised if the BCA cross reference numbers didn't include some element of the ND numbers so I'm not liking the reply you got.  Instead of B24 I think you should be looking for a BCA B23 to match what you have. B24 is likely correct for the inner set but i think what you are showing is the smaller outer set.

Both the 909023 and 909024 series were also used on 1929 to 31 small series Buicks according to the Master parts manual . Pretty sure that there will be a size difference as the smaller number will be outer and the larger one  inner

 

Be glad you are not looking for the '003' we need for 1925 Buicks!

 

Brad

 

I got luck that a member of the Cadillac club know somebody that had these bearings.

A person I helped with a fuel pump problem some years ago didn't forget it and help me out this time.

Again a step closer to have the Oldsmobile in perfect condition.

Thanks for the help.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well today I did a more thorough digging through my spare parts. Conrad’s roadster is missing both the drivers and passenger side hood latching brackets. I had told him I thought I had a pair but a couple of quick looks through my spares and nothing. Tonight I opened some boxes I had taped shut that had taillight housings, lenses, and associated parts. Lo and behold in that box were the parts Conrad needed. I also found an original oil filter bracket that needs a little work but not much. Not sure if Conrad will want it also.

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  • 3 weeks later...
5 minutes ago, demco32 said:

I've been in an other country for some time.

Thanks for the link.

Would you sell me the 2 parts as in the photo, Ted?

 

No, I will not sell you the parts, you can have them for what the postage costs me. If you want me to try and collect the fittings you need I can do that and send it all in one package. You will just have to pay for the fittings and any postage incurred for me to get them sent to me.

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I appreciate that you would like to give me both parts, Ted.

I'll be more than happy to pay for  shipment+ the parts for the oil filter lines.

There is a part on the engine bloc that go in an 90grd angle and where the tube is fitted in.

I just don't understand these insh sizes because we have metric and work with millimeters. 

Your help for that is more than welcome.

I could use the spring for the starter pedal too if possible.

Regards, Conrad.

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I know it's not original but the law requires that the type plate must be on the body and insurance require there has to be a battery switch.

the wiring for the indicators is also ready.

There will be no extra lights for the indicators so that the appearance of the car remains as original.

I will make a cover plate to cover the switch so that everything is neatly finished.

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Edited by demco32 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

It is legally required to have turn signals.

With these relay's on the circuit board it is possible to have  the stop tail lights also use for the turn signals to function.

No additional lights need to be placed on the car and the appearance of the car remains as original.

print pinker stop.jpg

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Because the wires could drag against the steering rod, I made a tube and enlarged the inside diameter on the lathe so that the steering rod has enough space to rotate.

To keep the tube in the middle, I made two center pieces to which the tube is welded .

The back one with a flat side on it to allow the wires to pass.

A small screw at the bottom of the steering column to secure the tube in the steering column in the right place.

The only thing visible is the switch for the turn signal.

A box from an old alarm system is perfect to house the electrical parts and can be attached to the two bolts that connect the steering column with the tension bracket on the support under the dashboard.

I have managed to make an adjustment to the car that is not only legally required, but also makes the car safer in traffic without affecting the appearance of the car except for the steering column switch.

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I have no problem with adding directional lights even where they are not required. The day is long passed when anyone recognized hand signals. Do they still teach hand signals in Driver's ed? I doubt it. As it is, there is always a danger in driving with lots of idiots trying to talk or text. I've had far more close calls from drivers who were fixated on their phone than with drunks...who I hardly ever see on the road in the daytime.

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the steering rod bushing was worn and I made a new one in bronze.

some of the throttle lever plungers were missing and I made new ones for them.

with a new spring in the middle it will work like new again.

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On 3/5/2024 at 1:43 AM, JV Puleo said:

I have no problem with adding directional lights even where they are not required. The day is long passed when anyone recognized hand signals. Do they still teach hand signals in Driver's ed? I doubt it. As it is, there is always a danger in driving with lots of idiots trying to talk or text. I've had far more close calls from drivers who were fixated on their phone than with drunks...who I hardly ever see on the road in the daytime.

Thanks, i agree safety comes first ,Even if it were not mandatory, I would still adjust this.

 

I don't know the law in the USA, but in Belgium you are not allowed to have a mobile phone in your hand behind the wheel.

When caught by the police you automatically lose your driver's license for at least 2 weeks + a big fine.

Too many serious accidents have occurred due to distraction with mobile phones

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3 hours ago, demco32 said:

 

 

I don't know the law in the USA, but in Belgium you are not allowed to have a mobile phone in your hand behind the wheel.

When caught by the police you automatically lose your driver's license for at least 2 weeks + a big fine.

Too many serious accidents have occurred due to distraction with mobile phones

I wish they did that in the US. I can’t go a day without someone driving and on the phone in some form or another. Mike

 

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the steering rack is leaking oil from the bottom.

the cork seal is not 100% tight and wears out quickly

a modern seal fits nicely around the throttle shaft.

made a bronze part into which the seal fits nicely and where the old sealing plate fits.

with this adjustment the thick oil will no longer leak.

 

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12 hours ago, demco32 said:

someone enlarged the holes in the starter pedal for unknown reasons.

made a reducing bush and everything now fits without any play.

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They actually are all like that and bushings need to be made. The holes that big is original. 

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31 minutes ago, chistech said:

They actually are all like that and bushings need to be made. The holes that big is original. 

ok, I thought this wrong, but I have already found so many wrong and bad repairs on the car that I thought the holes had been enlarged for unknown reasons during the previous restoration.

It is of course also possible that the bushing was lost during a previous restoration or repair.

The reason for the large holes in the pedal could also be that the rotating movement of the pedal during starting would wear out this hole if there were no reducing bushing.

When I notice how well the Oldsmobile is built and well thought out in all points, there must be a reason why the engineers made the holes so large during production of this part.

 

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