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A 1932 Oldsmobile DCR in Belgium


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Hello, I’ve started this thread to help out a new friend, Conrad, who took ownership ship on a very nice F32 wire wheeled deluxe roadster. It is one of 333 ever produced and it recently got delivered to Conrad in Belgium. Conrad is undertaking a restoration/refurbishment back to 100% OEM and I have been helping him as much as I can. It’s great that he’s got this car and he’s going to be doing it right. Let’s welcome him aboard!

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Thanks for the help, Ted.

I appreciate it a lot.

I was following the car for more than one year and a few months back I had the opportunity to purchase this rare car.

Unfortunate  there is a lot wrong and need repairs, not so easy when not living in the USA because there are no parts to be found for these cars in Europe.

Mechanical repairs are sometimes difficult and solutions need to be found.

Ted, Chistech said that the big double row bearing in the free wheel unit is for owners a big problem because its not available anymore.

So for anyone in need for a solution for this problem I can share how I did it.

The bearing is OEM 80mm outside diameter and 30 mm inside, and is no longer in production.

FAG bearing is 80 outside and 35mm inside but there is a extra bushing 35mm outside and 30mm inside that solve this problem.

( The maximum in 30mm inside diameter is 72mm)

I hope this information can help.

If not available in the USA I can help .

 

An other problem is that the bronze bushings inside the transmission cluster assembly are worn out.

Is anyone know there I could buy these?

 

 

  

 

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Does anyone know where a radiator stone guard is for sale?

I also need an original oil filter for my Oldsmobile.

A photo from the Harrison  heather under the dashboard could be helpful to install mine in correct position.

The on / of swish is also something i have no idea wat the exact location is and how it look like.

I like to have everything correct as possible.

Does anyone know the paint code for the green color on the engine?

Is green the original color?

 

 

 

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I will offer as much information as I can.

1. The stone guards are virtually non existent and my own is only one of about three I know of, all on cars. Possibly someone reading this knows who might make custom ones. I was told there is someone out there who does.

2. An original type throw away Delco canister oil filter should be out there somewhere. Possibly putting the a want add request in parts might help. When I go to Hershey this year I’ll look around.

3. Will send in an email. My iPad won’t let me attach a pdf.

4. There are no pictures of the heater switch location that I know of. The instructions say there is a hole in the bottom of the dash edge but my dash doesn’t have any holes other than the  one for the instrument lights. I mounted mine on the passenger side so my wife has easy access because she’s the one who gets cold.

5. The engine and trans are definitely “Oldsmobile green” and Bill Hirsch sells the correct color.

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Hello, Ted.

My e-mail ; verco66@telenet.be.

1- if i could have a few good photo's like one from the grill ,so i know the kind of wire has been used, an other from the side to see the shape of the metal/chrome frame, i could make this stone guard.

Some measurements would be great and very helpful.

I have a Pullmax machine so i just have to make some dies in correct shape. 

2- its not the  throw away canister i need but the housing for it , as far i can see on photo's it is like a 2 part metal housing for the filter .

It looks like you can open the underside part to be able to renew the inside filter.

I would like to go to Hershey but have no idea how to find a hotel to stay.

3- my e-mail is on top.

4- ok, so if there is no 100% correct location for a switch  i can install it just next the other switches.

Have to find a correct switch too.

5- shipping a can of paint would be a problem i believe, paint is a hazardous product for shipping rules.

A paint formula or something small with the paint on would be a better way.

We can read the paint for exact formula if there is no way to get the formula.

Do you have the contact details for Bill Hirsch?

6- If you go to Hershey would you look out for the metal part 'injector refill' on top of the glass jar?

The leaf spring are being away for restoration / repair and should take about 3 weeks to have them ready.

I hope one day to meet you  in person one day so i can thank you for your help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The original oil filters on the 32’s did not have a replaceable element. They were a single use, sealed canister made much like a coffee can. They were good for 10,000 miles then were supposed to be replaced. At on time a company called Bobs Buick or Bobs Automobilia offered a two part canister that looks exactly the same as the originals but contained a modern screw on filter inside it. I don’t believe they sell them anymore.

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Ok, now I understand how it is with the oil filter.

I can make one If I have the dimension and good photo's too.

I also need to know where the oil tubes go, there are 2 tubes on the engine block.  one for exit the engine and go to the oil filter and the other one will be the return tube to the engine. Depends on direction  the oil flow.

But ( question ) is the upper tube the exit on engine side and go to the middle of the filter so oil go trough the filter form the middle to the outside 

The photo ( I think from your engine)  shows  me like an oval embossing on top of filter and look like 3 fittings (when enlarge the photo but I get a blurry view )

To me it look like the filter could be opened because I see an edge about one inch below to top of the filter.

I have a lot of work on this Oldsmobile, but It's worth the effort.

Front axle repair

Leaf springs ( they are working on that now)

Oil filter problem.

Gearbox repair (almost done)

The release bearing repair (done)

The Harrison heather installation ( need to have the chrome part redone)

Find the Fisher tag (no one can make one)

Turn signals.

Gas tube need to be redone too.

Make a stone guard.

 

 

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I did but none are available now as both manufactures have died.

 

BOB'S AUTOMOBILIA

www.bobsautomobilia.com

3352 S EL POMAR

TEMPLETON , CA 93465

805-434-2963

 

Again unfortunate two manufactures and knowledge are gone.

 

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I can work with this, sir.

Your tubing is done very nice.

I have 2 bolts in the engine block and these will be for the mounting plate.

The photo shows me that the fuel /gas pump is about the same size as the oil filter. in diameter.

I suspect the filter will be 4.5 inch

I see that the numbers on your engine block are the same as mine except for small plate with the 2 screws, mine are different.  

New spacer I made for the transmission cluster assembly and bronze bushings.

No one has these original bronze bushings.

 

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Great job on the transmission repairs. A while back a guy had a few transmission repair kits that had the three flat synchronizer springs and other parts and I bought one. My friend Joe also bought one of those kits as the seller had a few. I’ll look for his name in my past eBay purchases and get you his info. Possible he still has a kit.
     Yes, there should be one on each side of the lower radiator shell. I might have some. I am going through my storage container and have to dig through my spare parts. I might even have an oil filter loop that mounts to the block. I’ll let you know.

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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O, yes a repair kit is something I would like to have.

The 3 springs have some damage but I hope they will do the job.

Because the roller bearing in front of drive shaft was complete destroyed and the metal parts enter the sliding shaft where 3 springs are located.

I straitened them as good as possible and it look like it will work. 

 

I thought there should be 2 locks, would be great if you have some.

With a good photo I eventual could make them but I think it would not be easy job.

About the oil filter; now i understand how it is with the view like there is a filter in 2 parts.

It's not a filter in 2 parts but a metal band / loop where the complete filter fits in.

With a loop I have the diameter dimension for the filter too.

I purchase  a spring for the starter pedal if you can spare one.

Mine is not broken but to have one in stock would be a reassurance against it should get broken one day.

 

Whish switch  did you use for Harrison Heather? 

 
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The transmission is ready to install after clean up the rear of the engine and line up the clutch.

I finally received the new neon sign for the shop.

Need to find out the correct type of oil for transmission.

I made a support to prevent the free wheel unit to jump out gear.

 

  

 

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Now, it is for sale in the Netherlands.

I believe it is made in Czech Republic.

It is very nice and big, 65 cm diameter, not for outside use.

It will be beautifully in the shop above the Oldsmobile and my collection of USA  number plates. 

 

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I ran the old school 500 weight oil in my trans but it’s too heavy. Once in a while my free wheel pawls will pop out after I’ve down shifted and I believe the oil is too thick to allow the springs to push the pawls back quickly enough. I would think , and I’m going to do it myself, a 75-90 weight gear oil will be fine. I looked in one place for the bonnet hooks for the radiator end of the bonnet but didn’t find them . I will look in my other area today to see if I have any.

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 ran the old school 500 weight oil in my trans but it’s too heavy. Once in a while my free wheel pawls will pop out after I’ve down shifted and I believe the oil is too thick to allow the springs to push the pawls back quickly enough. I would think , and I’m going to do it myself, a 75-90 weight gear oil will be fine. I looked in one place for the bonnet hooks for the radiator end of the bonnet but didn’t find them . I will look in my other area today to see if I have any.

 

It just came on now, didn't see it.

I made a  support to prevent the free wheel unit to jump out gear.

It has some damage and not going to use the free wheel.

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8 hours ago, demco32 said:

Could you find some parts for me, Ted?

What are you looking for? I couldn’t find the hood hooks that mount on the radiator shell bottom. Maybe I didn’t have them.  I did find a starter pedal spring you can have. My original free wheeling unit was welded together but I removed it because I wanted originality in my car. I’m starting to think i might put that welded unit back in. 

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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It would be of help If you could give me the dimensions for the oil filter.

I can make one with a disposable filter inside and look original.

I don't understand the use of the free wheel unit.

If you have the car in neutral the motor is also not in connection with the gears in the transmission and the rear wheels are free of drive.

Same is when free wheel unit is not connected ( lets say also in neutral) , drive shaft is free of drive too.

Why have 2 way's to have the rear wheels free of drive from the engine power?

Nobody can see it If your free wheel unit is welded, it is inside and the cable coming from the dashboard in connection with the lever on the free wheel unit are still original.

I didn't weld my unit but added a support on the transmission so the lever stay in gear position.

To have a car in 100% condition is nice to have but sometimes there is a safety issue and a small modification is needed.

About the Harrison heater; which switch  did you use, sir? 

Thanks for your help. 

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I appreciate it  If you would keep the starter spring for me , sir.

I'm going to need other parts too.

Mounting the clutch pedal parts give me an other problem.

There is hook-like part that had a metal rod welded , don't look original to me.

I don't think it will stay in position when operating the clutch pedal. 

Don't know how it is suppose to look, the hook - part. ( how should the correct part  look like that  connect the pedal with the clutch fork ?)

Perhaps it was broken and someone welded a rod but i don't believe this can work good.

I also found a lot slack in the part that go over the pedal.

There is like a tube part with screw thread inside ( i screw a bold in to show) but noting is connected with this part.

If original, which part should be in it?

When disassemble the transmission I saw an other part that was not connected to anything.

There is no photo in the shop manual for both issue of missing parts.

Do you know it Ted?

  

 

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I've been reading your restoration story , sir.

I found some answers for the problems I have in missing or damage parts on my 32 Olds.

Is it possible to purchase the rubber parts missing in my car around the pedals and gear shifter?

I saw a photo about the part on my pedal where I screw a bold in and see it should have a connection rod for the free wheel unit ( so this problem is solved )

When the clutch pedal is not in use this rod hook-plate is blocking the lever for the free wheel unit.

The hook -part on clutch pedal seems to be also the correct one but a bit lager hook and spring ( this problem solved too)

Onley the plate with the rod on the transmission side is  an open question.

It seem it is not on your car.

 

 

 

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Not sure what rod and plate on the transmission side you’re talking about. I might have the original technical documentation on the free wheeling clutch interlock. The interlock was added by dealers to early production cars and later production cars had it installed at the factory. 
 

looking at your last photo there is a linkage that was made up to keep the free wheeling lever in the disengage position. That is not original. (Rereading an earlier post, I assume this linkage is what you fabricated to lock the free wheeling lever) Normally the eye of the free wheeling cable is attached to the bottom eye of the lever. The casing of the cable is held with a clamp and bolt to the bottom of the front of the brake cross shaft support. In your last photo, the front of the cross shaft support is bolted to the transmission and is visible right behind the eye of that linkage rod to lock the free wheeling lever from moving. Below the eye is the area on the cross shaft support where the casing of the free wheeling cable gets clamped. It has a groove in it for the casing to fit in.

 

Free wheeling was a mainly 1932 option on many cars installed as a fuel saving option. When free wheeling is engaged, it works like a one way ratchet, allowing the motor to rotate the driveshaft with power but also allowing the drive shaft to rotate when coasting without any back pressure from the engine. The engine can be allowed to go to idle without affecting the speed of the coasting vehicle. Of course this meant any stopping of the vehicle was strictly on the brakes and there was no downshifting available to help slow the vehicle. It was quickly realized that free wheeling was a dangerous addition to a car and they were pulled from production for most brands by 1933.

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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My friend Joe Pirronne and I work together to mold the pedal and shift lever closeout panels. Joe is waiting for the urethane he uses to come back in stock. We have to make up at least two other sets for people so I assume we’ll probably make up 6 -7 sets. Once joe molds them, he ships them to me where I put the special bevel cuts in them using a special jig I made to do that. I’ll be talking with Joe soon and see if he’s any luck purchasing the urethane he needs.

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The idea came to me too, Ted.

The lever can slide over the linkage but the distance is not correct so I assume it could be for an other part that is missing.

I'll take it of the car as you say it is not an original part.

I noticed that all transmission bolts have same length and that is weird, If a plate with thickness should be added than that bolt should be longer.

But when previous restorer made a mistake and replace that bolt it could be an original part so I'm sure you understand my doubt.

 

You are correct, sir.

I made a support to hold the free wheel lever in place and prevent it to go out of gear.

I didn't know about that linkage going from the clutch pedal to the top of transmission.

Your photo is very helpful.

I found out that the free wheel cable should be on the free wheel lever and the cable fixed on the cross shaft support so when operating the cable from the dashboard the lever could go forward and back to have the free wheel  is connected or free position.

I'm will make a clamp to hold the cable in position and have it as original as possible.

I also didn't like the idea to have the car in free wheel position when driving, using just the brakes is to dangerous and I don't want this nice car to have  damage of worse in an accident.   

 

I see a large spring on top of transmission on your photo.

I don't have this spring on my car, where should it be used for?

The rubber part on top of transmission gear lever is missing too on my car.

More and more  found out that parts are  missing.

 

Maybe I'm to mush demanding about this car but I like to have things done in correct way  and original as possible too.

Keep in mind that the laws are there to to be able to have the car on the road and it's not always possible to keep everything as original.

I read about your friend too and he is also a punctual person in restoring his car.

 

We don't have access to some materials  to fabricate parts because of the environment laws.

I see on the photo an other car next to your car, could that be the car I have now?

  

 

 

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I don’t believe I ended up using that long spring but I have to crawl under the car and have a look. That small rubber boot on top of the shift lever comes up for sale from time to time on eBay. Not sure if Steele Rubber or Metro offers them. They can be black or brown. The car in the picture down from mine is a 32 chevy, not an Oldsmobile. If you look closely you will see cowl lights instead of fender lights. The hood only has enough length for 4 hood doors instead of the Oldsmobile 5. That picture was taken at Hershey when I got my first junior award. The guys who owned the chevy were joking about how one could cut up an Oldsmobile roadster if they need parts for a Chevrolet cabriolet because many parts are the same or could be worked to make fit. I said the opposite because of the rarity of the olds versus the chevy.

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When I enlarge the photo it becomes a bit blurry.

I can't see 5doors because of wheel in front.

It would be a shame to take parts of an Oldsmobile and cut them.

I like the Chevrolet too .

An other book arrived today.

 

The shop manual shows a spring that is connected with the brake pedal as return pedal spring.

It's not on my car.

The spring on the drawling looks shorter but if it would be the longer spring like the one on your photo , it could be correct.

On my car it is like the photo shows.

 

The '32 Cadillac V12 arrived for maintenance so the work on the Oldsmobile  is on hold for a few day's.

 

 

 

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The Cadillac is beautiful! I actually just found the paperwork for the transmission parts kit I bought off ebay. The seller was Old Car Parts NW, internet address is OCPNW.com. What is got is called is a transmission small parts kit, Buick/Oldsmobile/Pontiac 1932-1936. Dittmer PO609A. The kit was made by Dittmer and the number is the PO609A. It contains those perforated bronze washers you recreated along with three synchronizer springs and other small parts including lock rings. You can try their site and possibly they have more. I will be getting the car out sometime this weekend and will climb under it to look at the layout of the springs. I don't believe I used that spring thats on top of the transmission but I could have. My car had the majority of it's original springs. It was missing the linkage for the free wheeling interlock but I duplicated it all from the factory bulletins. I have those and should be able to scan them if you need them. 

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Everything that could be of help to get the car as original a possible would be appreciated, sir.

Thank you if you would mail me the copy's of factory bulletins.

How did you get these bulletins, I would think they are long time ago lost because the age  and these cars are not any more in production by GM.

They would be a great help in reproduce car parts.

 

I wonder which could be the use of that spring  if you didn't use that spring and your car is restored to 100% original condition.

I suppose it is an original part because you have it on top of the transmission therefore I assume it should be on the car.

I would need to find out the type of wire, thickness and measurements ,before I could duplicate that spring.

Windings could be made on the lathe .

 

Yes, Ted the Cadillac is very beautiful and drive just like a modern car.

Idle at 420 rpm, 3 speed transmission.

Also brake with steel cable wire.

There is a double ignition system and a bit difficult to work on.  

An other Cadillac is this 1937 V8.

 

  

   

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That spring I believe I had and thought about using for the free wheeling interlock system. My interlock system was off the car so I had to duplicate those parts from the drawings on the factory bulletins and that included any spring. My car is extremely close to 100% OEM but that doesn’t mean all the parts are original parts as some of the parts are newly created as close to exact copies as possible and that includes small items like screws, bolts, and springs.

     My friend joe actually purchased collections of original factory bulletins from men who had saved them from the Oldsmobile plant. He has an extensive amount of original bulletins. I will be talking with him soon and see if he has the time to send you what he needs. He’s currently extremely busy so I’m not sure how much time he has right now. 
     They referred to the 32 chevy cabriolet as the baby Cadillac but I believe the 32 olds more closely resembles the Cadillac than the chevy. I’m pretty sure it was GM brass that coined the “baby Cadillac “ phrase so they would sell more Chevys. If you looked at Oldsmobile history throughout the years you would realize that the marquee was not very appreciated by the GM corporation. In fact, even in Lansing MI, home of the Oldsmobile and Ransom himself they didn’t appreciate him or the marquee.

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