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Drill bit size to remove OIL pressure relief valve ?


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Does anyone know the drill bit size, to remove the OIL pressure relief valve on the 6 cylinder, 1936 - 1950 car, and trucks up to 1960. Commonly called Big Six, or Commander 6. The one that is 218, 226, 245 cu in?

I can't seem to find the reference.

Thanks!

Edited by George Rohrbach (see edit history)
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  • George Rohrbach changed the title to Drill bit size to remove OIL pressure relief valve ?

And how do you accomplish removal?

My understanding has always been that you place the small drill bit into the small relief valve hole so that it just catches. Then remove both the drill bit and the valve body. Of course, done by hand, not with a drill. 

Perhaps you can share a better way. IMG_8416.jpg.8f1d965cbe58e2c8c8bf9b7e79b7e385.jpg

 

Edited by George Rohrbach (see edit history)
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Hi George,

 

I have accomplished a similar task using a small (but powerful) magnet on a rod or stick.  Snap-on / Mac Tools used to make a strong magnet attached to an aluminum rod and would work well to retrieve ferrous objects.   I have never done the task you are asking about, but this might work? 

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5 hours ago, George Rohrbach said:

And how do you accomplish removal?

My understanding has always been that you place the small drill bit into the small relief valve hole so that it just catches. Then remove both the drill bit and the valve body. Of course, done by hand, not with a drill. 

Perhaps you can share a better way. IMG_8416.jpg.8f1d965cbe58e2c8c8bf9b7e79b7e385.jpg

 

That hole is so small any drill bit that would catch would break.

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If the valve is similar to a Studebaker V8 and Champion 6, it is drilled most of the way thru with a 1/4" or slightly larger hole, then the tiny hole is in the very end. The valve is inserted into the block with the tiny hole going in first. To remove the valve, you choose the largest drill bit that will fit into the larger drilled hole. I always insert it shank first, then just cock the drill bit so it sort of binds in the hole, and work the valve in and out until you can pull it all the way out. It may take a few tries until you clear the slight amount of sludge that may be in the hole.

 

So, they really don't need a specific size drill, just the largest that will fit into the larger drilled hole in the valve. For example, the V8 shop manual specifies a (I think) a 17/64" drill bit but I always use the slightly smaller 1/4" bit. And, I guess you could insert the bit drilling end first for maybe a little extra bite......but I never have had to.

 

Do not.....repeat DO NOT, try to put a tiny drill bit thru the tiny hole and try to pull the valve out!!

Edited by r1lark (see edit history)
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Tom,

You have me wondering if a 25mm long nickel-titanium root canal file would work. I unfortunately I didn't save any, as I did not anticipate doing any endodontics in retirement.

I am however using my dental lab motor (slow speed hand piece) today, with a Heatless Mizzy, and 1 1/2" separating disk, to modify the chrome window trim from a Monte Carlo, to fit my Avanti Convertible! Under 2 1/2 times magnification.

Edited by George Rohrbach (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, George Rohrbach said:

Paul the guy, who needs to take the old valve out, has ordered a new one. I will get a better idea when I see it. I like your idea. Thanks.

He should not need a new plunger.  It is hardened and in a casting.  Just has to clean out the bore and wedge something into the plunger to pull it out.  Never seen a worn one.  Sorry for the crappy photo.  Look in shop manual.

004.jpg

Edited by studerex (see edit history)
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22 hours ago, George Rohrbach said:

Rex,

  Thanks for your input.

They did get it out. I will pass along how.

Eagerly anticipating the procedure your guy used, George.  I have an engine where the plunger is really stuck and haven't had any luck removing it.

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