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'40 Century Clutch Kit Source


Rod Frazier

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Finally decided I couldn't stand the chatter anymore, so willing to try a new clutch kit.  Problem is I can't find one from any of the normal suppliers.  They have them for the smaller series, and I understand a Jeep clutch can be used for them, also, but nothing is available for the 10 1/2 units.

I tried Bob's, Carid, Kanter, Ebay, etc.  Any more sources I should try?

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17 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Hi Rod,

   You might try Pete Phillips.  He has some neat stuff.

  Part # is 1393486      1938 through 1948.

 

  Good luck.

 

  Ben

Thanks, Ben.  Do you have a contact number for him?

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58 minutes ago, Rod Frazier said:

Thanks, Ben.  Do you have a contact number for him?

 

 Pete Phillips

 903 436 2851

 

  Pete is the editor of the  Bugle,  the Buick Club of America monthly magazine.

 He runs a small restoration shop in east TX,.

 

   You probably do not need a pressure plate.  Also,  chattering is a symptom of bad motor mounts.  I bet there is a Driveline, clutch, brake shop in a large town near you [  yeah, I know, you are a thousand miles from anywhere ]  that can reline the clutch plate.

 

  Ben

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Here is a link from this forum that may help you.   see @Justinlb

 

Also as @Ben Bruce aka First Born stated, I would also add to see if oil leaking onto clutch disc and flywheel, flywheel may need to be resurfaced.

 

Look for clutch bearing support clip missing, in bell housing.

 

forums.aaca.org/topic/371854-enclosed-driveshaft-transmission-and-clutch-removal-1940-buick-super/#comment-2304172

 

Bob

 

 

Edited by NailheadBob
update (see edit history)
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15 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 Pete Phillips

 903 436 2851

 

  Pete is the editor of the  Bugle,  the Buick Club of America monthly magazine.

 He runs a small restoration shop in east TX,.

 

   You probably do not need a pressure plate.  Also,  chattering is a symptom of bad motor mounts.  I bet there is a Driveline, clutch, brake shop in a large town near you [  yeah, I know, you are a thousand miles from anywhere ]  that can reline the clutch plate.

 

  Ben

Of course....I should have recognized the name.  Didn't know he had a shop, though.  As to the mounts, I thought maybe the transmission mount was bad, so we put the car on the rack and engaged the clutch quickly ( risky, I know), and there was no excess movement.  The motor mounts look fine....could they be bad anyway?  Revving the engine doesn't cause movement.

By the way, I'm only 200 miles away from the city!  But that's a good idea, relining the plate.

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14 hours ago, NailheadBob said:

Here is a link from this forum that may help you.   see @Justinlb

 

Also as @Ben Bruce aka First Born stated, I would also add to see if oil leaking onto clutch disc and flywheel, flywheel may need to be resurfaced.

 

Look for clutch bearing support clip missing, in bell housing.

 

forums.aaca.org/topic/371854-enclosed-driveshaft-transmission-and-clutch-removal-1940-buick-super/#comment-2304172

 

Bob

 

 

Yeah, at this point I'm pretty sure that oil contamination is at least the main culprit, so will try to solve that problem when we've got everything apart, before installing the new or relined clutch plate.  May even tackle the rear main!  Good tip on the support clip...didn't even know there was one.

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16 hours ago, Rod Frazier said:

Finally decided I couldn't stand the chatter anymore, so willing to try a new clutch kit.  Problem is I can't find one from any of the normal suppliers.  They have them for the smaller series, and I understand a Jeep clutch can be used for them, also, but nothing is available for the 10 1/2 units.

I tried Bob's, Carid, Kanter, Ebay, etc.  Any more sources I should try?

Suggest you take your clutch with you and ask one of the 'fast food' auto parts stores

 tell them you want a clutch kit for an early to mid-70s V8 car clutch and just lay your pressure plate on top of new one to see if bolt pattern matches and then one up and one down, sight across to see if it's right height. Or, call The Clutch Doctor in North Branch to confirm it will work. Jeep for 248-263" was approx 125.00 new!

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18 minutes ago, Rod Frazier said:

Yeah, at this point I'm pretty sure that oil contamination is at least the main culprit, so will try to solve that problem when we've got everything apart, before installing the new or relined clutch plate.  May even tackle the rear main!  Good tip on the support clip...didn't even know there was one.

If clip missing or broken for clutch bearing support there will be no tension on support against front of transmission and fluid from transmission will leak and get all over clutch assembly 

 

Bob

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9 hours ago, Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel said:

When dad needed a clutch for his '38 Cadillac we sent it to https://fortwayneclutch.com/.

They shipped it back "done" the next day IIRC.  Fantastic service.  I've since had them do my 

Wildcat clutch/pressure plate/flywheel assemblies with excellent results.

Thanks.....I think I've found a rebuilder a couple hundred miles from here, but I'll keep your suggestion as a backup!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/3/2023 at 6:22 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 Pete Phillips

 903 436 2851

 

  Pete is the editor of the  Bugle,  the Buick Club of America monthly magazine.

 He runs a small restoration shop in east TX,.

 

   You probably do not need a pressure plate.  Also,  chattering is a symptom of bad motor mounts.  I bet there is a Driveline, clutch, brake shop in a large town near you [  yeah, I know, you are a thousand miles from anywhere ]  that can reline the clutch plate.

 

  Ben

Found a NORS clutch disk on EBay.  And you think probably I won't need to rebuild or replace the pressure plate?

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Rod, if it is a diaphragm one like the smaller engine,  not much.   I have  only seen one face on pressure plates and flywheels scored from rivets on worn clutch discs.  The diaphragm is probably ok if it is not cracked.  I have heard of cracked ones, never seen one.    If nothing is obviously wrong, I would not worry.

 

  Ben

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