1927 series 128/129 top/hood frame

[RichBad]

Hi all,

 

been a while as I’ve been busy enjoying my Dodge and haven’t done any work on it for a while.  Finally decided it’s time to finish it and cover up the wood work - interior trim is now done and am now on to the last job of the roof.

 

I’ve got a set of irons which aren’t perfect but I should be able to repair and adjust to suit but wanted to check for advice on setting the correct position for the irons and bows.  I assume the main run of the frame runs parallel to the top of the doors from the front bow rearwards but not sure about the rest.  Any tips and tricks?

 

 

 

I’ll sort the frame and bows but not brave enough to do the trim myself.  Still trying to decide if I go with black or light top but perhaps I’ll go something different :):)

Edited April 9, 2023 by RichBad (see edit history)

[RichBad]

Any tips on setting up the top bows?  I’ve got some old bows to play around with but not sure about the best positioning and order to get it all

setup so looks good when fabric is fitted.

 

cheers

 

[Mattml430]

You’ve probably seen these Rich but it gives some idea. I like the look of the first one where the 2nd bow from the front looks a bit higher. The 3rd definitely needs to be the highest. 
The top car is definitely a nicer looking roof. 

[RichBad]

Thanks:). Yea, see what you mean with the second bow being a little higher.  The rear is vertical in both, I was in sure about that too so that’s good.

 

side screens are nice in the first one too.

[1930 Kram66]

Lots of good information contained here. Not just for Buicks 😀https://forums.aaca.org/topic/343452-antique-car-convertible-top-replacement/?tab=comments#comment-2078427

 

[Mattml430]

That’s a great thread on top. Some beautiful work in there. 
thankyou I think I’ll go back to that when I re do my top again. 

[RichBad]

On 4/24/2023 at 6:33 AM, 1930 Kram66 said:

Lots of good information contained here. Not just for Buicks 😀https://forums.aaca.org/topic/343452-antique-car-convertible-top-replacement/?tab=comments#comment-2078427

 

That’s a great article, thanks.  
 

It doesn’t have a huge amount on the positioning of irons/bows other than the importance of correct positioning. With no pattern to work from this is what worries me most as it sets the overall look.

 

The bit on having the top edge just over the top frame and having parallel with the top of the doors is good, that should help get the position of the irons then just need to set the bow heights.

[1930 Kram66]

Here are some photos of my Holden bodied 1930 Chrysler, they may give you an idea on how to  set your irons and bows in position. In the first picture notice how the front iron is not attached to the windscreen at this point. The whole roof assembly is self supporting, the ratchet straps are providing the tension. 

I notice in your photos a clamp above the front door holding the centre up.

Until you get tension in the irons and bows it is difficult to see how the roof will  eventually sit.

So what I suggest is firstly establish the position of the rear most bow using a couple of sticks to hold it up where you think it looks best, you will also need to pull this bow down with a ratchet strap to hold its position.

Then using another ratchet strap pull the second to last bow carefully towards the rear one ( this is the most important bow to position correctly) this will cause it to lift upward and at the same time it should pull the third bow from the rear up and stop it sagging above the front door, you may need a another strap from this bow to the rear bow.

The roof irons and bows must be able to support themselves and not sag above the back of the front door. Now place your sheet on the roof to see what the roof line looks like .☺️ good luck

 

 

 

 

[alsfarms]

Nice formed top bows and not steam bent?

Al

[RichBad]

Ok, finally got my bows sorted and fitting them up.  I’m trying to get them set correctly before taking to the trimmer and I think I’ve got it about right.

 

I had to remake the rear/main irons and haven’t permanently attached the other irons yet (so can still move them up/down the main iron).

 

Not sure if I’ve got them right - what do you think?  
 

I’ve used a sheet to give an idea of how the fabric will sit.  Rear is pretty much vertical.  2nd bow is a little higher - if I put a strait edge across it sits about 1” above the 1st & 3rd bows - not sure if that’s too much?

 

The horizontal irons/bars are pretty much parallel with the door tops which I think they should be.

 

Ta!

[trimacar]

That's looking pretty close, comments are with bows numbered front to back, 1,2,3,4.  In the picture, bow #3 just a shade too high maybe?

 

The most important thing in a top such as this is to make sure there's full tension from #4 (back) bow to the #2 bow.  This is what keeps the side irons horizontal and tightens the top assembly.

 

Also, trimmers who are used to working with more modern cars fill top pads with a thin foam, because that's what's on newer cars.  This gives the "starved horse" look with top bows showing through like ribs.  Ask them to make sure padding is correct, also there needs to be reinforcing straps front to back INSIDE the pads (this supports padding), then I use one inch cotton batting for padding.  I also use top material for base of pads, bowdrill on top to close in padding, bowdrill is just not strong enough for base.

[Mattml430]

Looks pretty good Rich I love the colour. 
I reckon you’ve nailed it mate. 

[RichBad]

7 hours ago, trimacar said:

That's looking pretty close, comments are with bows numbered front to back, 1,2,3,4.  In the picture, bow #3 just a shade too high maybe?

 

The most important thing in a top such as this is to make sure there's full tension from #4 (back) bow to the #2 bow.  This is what keeps the side irons horizontal and tightens the top assembly.

 

Also, trimmers who are used to working with more modern cars fill top pads with a thin foam, because that's what's on newer cars.  This gives the "starved horse" look with top bows showing through like ribs.  Ask them to make sure padding is correct, also there needs to be reinforcing straps front to back INSIDE the pads (this supports padding), then I use one inch cotton batting for padding.  I also use top material for base of pads, bowdrill on top to close in padding, bowdrill is just not strong enough for base.

Many thanks!  I thought I may have number 3 a bit too high.  I’ll see if I can get it to go down some more - the radius is pretty close to hitting the irons but I can probably get a bit more. Will lowering number 3 make no. 2 too high - or is that a good thing?

Edited August 22 by RichBad (see edit history)

[RichBad]

1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:

Looks pretty good Rich I love the colour. 
I reckon you’ve nailed it mate. 

I think people will realise they’ve been missing out and start going with more colourful options:)

[robert b]

I agree with Trimacar on number 3 height ( about 1 inch lower ma be ) but they are looking good Rich . Try to keep the back bow a vertical as you can . Health is on the way back slowly and will be digging through gear boxes soon , back at work ,limited amount being done as after about 4 hours the pain sets back in , got to manage things slowly . talk soon Bob 

[trimacar]

15 hours ago, RichBad said:

I’ll see if I can get it to go down some more

It could be that the bow needs to go down in the socket slightly, hard to tell what fix is without being there to see the mechanism and what can be done!  

[RichBad]

Next question:). Is there any specific position for where the support straps should go?  The ones that go from the top of the tub up to the rear bow and then from rear bow to 3rd and 2nd?

 

I wanted to get the attachment points fitted to the rear tub and wasn’t sure how far in/out they should be or if it really matters?  
 

Ta!

[Mattml430]

On 8/27/2024 at 10:03 PM, RichBad said:

Next question:). Is there any specific position for where the support straps should go?  The ones that go from the top of the tub up to the rear bow and then from rear bow to 3rd and 2nd?

 

I wanted to get the attachment points fitted to the rear tub and wasn’t sure how far in/out they should be or if it really matters?  
 

Ta!

This is the original position on Ben’s dodge mate. Might give you a bit of a reference point. 

[RichBad]

On 8/22/2024 at 10:25 PM, trimacar said:

That's looking pretty close, comments are with bows numbered front to back, 1,2,3,4.  In the picture, bow #3 just a shade too high maybe?

 

The most important thing in a top such as this is to make sure there's full tension from #4 (back) bow to the #2 bow.  This is what keeps the side irons horizontal and tightens the top assembly.

 

Also, trimmers who are used to working with more modern cars fill top pads with a thin foam, because that's what's on newer cars.  This gives the "starved horse" look with top bows showing through like ribs.  Ask them to make sure padding is correct, also there needs to be reinforcing straps front to back INSIDE the pads (this supports padding), then I use one inch cotton batting for padding.  I also use top material for base of pads, bowdrill on top to close in padding, bowdrill is just not strong enough for base.

Hi,  doing a bit of work on my top on the weekend I remembered @trimacarcomment about needing full tension from the rear bow through to the 2nd bow. On mine I’ve got good tension but currently only have straps between the 4th & 3rd bows and nothing between 3rd and 2nd with the tension being taken up by the “slotted” bar between the 3rd & 2nd bows.  I’ve got the 3rd bow pulled fully rearwards so there’s no slack in the slot which is tensioning the 2nd bow (pic below shows what I mean).

 

Is this the right way to do it or should their be slack in the slot and the tension taken fully through the straps?

thanks!

 

 

[trimacar]

If that's how your irons are designed, that's fine.  Your pads, if made from top material, will pull back on the bows in position, as will the straps you should put inside the pads before the padding goes on.  It's the about 4 inch wide burlap type strap you should use.