Slawnski Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 I am working on my 27 Standard that had its vacuum fuel pump replaced with an electric pump. The electric pump in the vehicle(12V !) does not work- nor does the second electric pump (6V) that was in the back seat when I purchased the car. I have acquired a steward Warner Pump and will be replacing the electric with the vacuum pump. There is a fuel regulator in line past the electric pump. I am assuming this would only be required with the electric pump. I also assume this regulator would not work well with the vacuum pump. I'm looking for conformation from you guys. Thanks! I'll post a photo or two if I can get them off my phone a bit later Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 No regulator. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted March 20, 2023 Author Share Posted March 20, 2023 Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 If you are using a 12 volt electrical system you are in the right ball park. BUT there are several versions and you must use the correct pump. If you are using a 6 volt system use Airtex E8011. If you are using a 12 volt system, use Airtex E801 S. These pumps will give you the low pressure you must use. I also use a plastic - 'see thru' filter just before the electric pump. P/N. Purolater F 20-11. I have bought my pumps thru Walmart and at a good price. They will send it to your closest store or mail it to you. Your filter is readily aviable from your local auto parts store. Next, keeping the pump - in the back and level with the bottom of the tank with the filter in the front - tank side of the pump will give you just the right flow and pressure so you won't flood the carb. This way if your 'normal' system fails, turning on the 'hidden electric pump' will keep you going until you get where you can repair the original fuel supply. I've had a regular pump fail while driving on a 6 lane - semi-limited access road and pulled off to see why my engine quit. I found the fuel pump main shaft backing part way out causing the pump to stop. I just turned on my boost pump and drove home and got a new mechanical regular pump. That alone was worth the price of the system - no towing this time. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Manes Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 if you decide to use the stewart vacuum pump you MUST remove the electric pump. The electric pump will simply fill the vacuum tank and then force gasoline out the overflow/ atmosphere vent and spray gasoline everywhere. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 Jim, Please call it a vacuum tank as there is no pump in early systems. Many of us still use our vacuum tanks. If you understand how they work, they will provide a good service. Just put the system back as the factory built it. Many of us use a very small kitchen funnel to fill the vacuum tank. There is a 1/8" npt on the top that can be removed. You can put about a quart of gasoline into the vacuum tank. This will feed the carburetor bowl. Once the car starts if the vacuum tank is working, the vacuum tank will fill itself from the fuel tank. Your nemesis with vacuum tanks are vacuum leaks. These will typically come from the Banjo gaskets or the tank top gasket. If you clean everthing and all the gaskets are installed properly you should not have issues. There are several tech write ups on this forum regarding servicing vacuum tanks. Hugh 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted March 21, 2023 Author Share Posted March 21, 2023 I will be installing the vacuum tank as original. The standby/backup electric pump is intriguing. I have a little way to go before I get to this point, but I have a rebuild kit for the vacuum tank. I need the banjo fitting for the fuel supply / intake to the tank when the time comes- I have had no luck finding one locally- does anybody have a McMaster part number/size? for this fitting? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 Ooops, so sorry. The 30's cars went to fuel pumps and my brain did not get far enough back to log it in...... My apologies. But just in case the vacuum tank system failed, could using a electrical pump help. Just thinking out loud - - -. I don't like the issue of having a break down away from home. It sucks ! (and it's embarrassing a little) . Options are nice ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old26Buick Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 I flipped my intake manifold and install a carter one barrel carb. Electric fuel pump with regulator. Never ran so good. In fact did that to both my 26 sedan and 27 woodie. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 22, 2023 Share Posted March 22, 2023 Jim I have an extra OEM Banjo. I can tell you that the original copper fuel lines are very poor quality. There is no ductility. If they have been bent and then straightened, there is a likelihood of tiny cracks developing and then you have fuel or air leaks. I bought a fuel line out of an old Buick and it was shipped coiled. Once it was rolled back out there was lots of small holes in the tubing. (See photo 1). Ken Rawlings preached to me about changing my fuel lines when he sold me the ends off an old fuel line that he had. It also really bugged me that I knew from my Jaguar parts that the Banjo fittings on an SU fuel pump were ever so close, but I never spent the time to see how far off the parts were. Attached is a note that the SU Banjo can be used with a little modification, but not the SU bolt. What a crazy proprietary thread. 3/8-19 threads per inch. British Standard Pipe (but it is not a pipe thread) and the bolt OD is .030 smaller in OD than OEM. Also photos showing the fuel line and the solder that I used. Hugh 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 Once again Hugh thank you for helping me pick off these hurdles one by one. I have the original bolt- and an L fitting off of another SW vacuum tank. I’d much rather use the banjo than the L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1wonton Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 Does the Airtex fuel pump just install inline? When you turn off the pump does the mechanical fuel pump (on the engine) then pull fuel thru the Airtex? Is there any check valve in the Airtex that prevent fuel from running back into the fuel tank? ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1wonton Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 Tried to order the Airtex 8011 on Amazon but it's not available, nor on Summit. Is there a source for this pump any longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 (edited) Ron, The Airtex 8011 is the pump you do not want. The pump you are looking for is Airtex 8902. I am not advocating an electric fuel pump, but if you have a steel needle for a brass seat in the carburetor, you need the lower pressure pump. You also have to be very careful finding these on Ebay. They will be listed as an 8902, but then the specs are for the higher pressure pump. I have run these pumps in series so that one provides a backup spare. I have shut off front or back pump and I still have pressure when the other one runs. They do not have a check valve. Hugh Edited March 24, 2023 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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