1950 Buick Dynaflow Transmission Removal, Repair, Reinstall and Tools Required

[avgwarhawk]

Your deduction of where the leak is originating makes sense. 

[NailheadBob]

Today I learned something new "Front pump to converter garlock seal" I never heard it referred to that name. 

 

I thought you already replaced that seal?

 

The part number needed is CT-8029 for seal, and possibly bushing # CT-2795, I know you mentioned you will not need bushing.

 

https://www.classictransmissionsolutions.com/buick-dynaflow-transmission-front-pump-seal-1948-1963/

 

Bob

[Sonomatic]

Hi NailheadBob.  My reference is not what the Buick parts manual calls that seal, I was just trying to be precise in describing which seal I thought was causing the leak.  People aroung here refer to a lip seal with the backup spring behind the seal, as a garlock seal.  USAF uses this same terminology for this type of seal.  Could very well be the same sort of thing as people refering to locking pliers as Vicegrip pliers or and adjustable jaw wrench as a Cresent wrench.  Please don't take my description as the correct nomenclature for the front pump seal.  Without using the illustrated parts breakdown as the illustration, it's hard to describe exactly what one is talking about with pump seals in a Dynaflow, for me anyway.

[Sonomatic]

So this is what has been the hold up with the Dynaflow.  The original screen, shown in the first picture was damaged while cleaning.  I was going to go ahead and run it, had actually put the pan back on, but, after considering what one usually finds when a transmission pan is removed, plus the fact that the oil filter screen only sits an 1/8" or so off the bottom, I decided to fix this problem.  A search on line revealed no used oil filter screen assemblies to be had.  I did, howerver, run across a post where someone had procurred screen material on e-bay and replaced it.  In the second picture, you can see the pickup assembly with the brass screen removed.  I had to fashion a tool to bend the retaining lip up, actually two tools.  The first was a common 1 1/2" putty knife that I radiused on the grinder to matche the readius of the oild screen housing.  Great idea, but the putty knife turned out to be too flexible to effectively lift an 1 1/2" of the lip at a time.  I did use it later to try to tuck brass screen under the lip, but I'll get to that.  I ended up modifying an old flat blade screw driver by grinding an edge  on the end of it to wedge under the lip of the oil screen housing and lift it up.  I braced the edge of the oild screen housing against my vice, and tapped the screw driver under the lip and semi successfully raised the lip enough extract both the brass screen and the course support screen.  I say semi successfully because I cut some of the strands of the course screen with the sharp edge of the modified screw driver.  I would recommend to anyone trying this to either blunt the edge of the screw driver, or, better yet, make a second one with a blunted edge to finish raising the lip.  Once I got the brass screen removed, I was horrified to see how ineffective by attempt at clean the oil filter screen had been.  I used a couple of large cans of Gumout carb cleaner that had been on sale at the local Advance auto store.  This stuff used to be one of the most effective solvents out there.  I guess it too has been "EPA'd" and has went the way of nonflamable Brake Kleen and paint stripper.  Safe to the point of being ineffective.  In the third picture you can see my assortment of screen material.  Each one is about 3 square feet and was about $13 each.  I started at #120 I think, and finally found that #40 mesh is the best match for the original filter screen.  I tried to use #80 mesh, but, it was similar in composition to your wife's sheer curtains and I found it too soft and too fine to stay under the lip of the oil screen when it was bent back down to retain it.  I was also concerned that the mesh might be too fine to allow easy passage of the trans fluid when it was winter time.  So, I recommend the #40 mesh.  You can see in the fourth picture that it is the closest match to original.  I forgot to mention the stainless screen on the far left in picture 3.  I will be using that to replace the original back up screen because pieces of the old back up screen kept breaking off and I was afraid a piece would wind up in the pump.  As a note, I belive solder could be used to reinstall the finer mesh screen, but my problem with that was that I didn't want to expose the rubber grommet in the oil filter screen to heat.  It was too hard, meaning the rubber was too hard to take a chance on removing and I wasn't able to find a source for a new one.  At this point, I am going to stop with the repair of the original screen, I plan to repair it at a later date and post that repair in a seperate post, and move on to solution #2.  I have mentioned Jim Hughes, of Jim's Dynaflow service in Ohio a few times in this post.  It occured to me, if anyone might have an original oil filter screen, it was him.  I called him up, and, sure enough, he had one.  For an extremely reasonable sum, Jim sent me one of his spares and you can see it in picture 4, that's what I'm using to compaire the #40 mesh brass screen.  So, at this point, the replacement oil filter screen is installed, the pan reinstalled and the fasteners torqued to 15-18 ft lbs as per the 1950 Buick manual.  

[Sonomatic]

Got back on the Dynaflow yesterday.  Wanted to clean it up and paint it before I put it back in.  I think that these transmissions weren't painted from the factory.  I decided to go with cast iron colored paint for that reason.  You can see how much better it looks in the before and after pictures.  My particular transmission was covered with undercoating.  I used mineral spirits, then laquer thinner and last acetone to clean and prep for paint.  There was really no reason to paint it other than it looks better in my opintion.  It will also make working on it in the future easier because details can be made out.  I have a new mount and thrust mount to install, also new boot that will be installed on the rear.  Today I hope to get all of the hardware clean and ready to go back in.  As you can see in the last picture, I have the transmission haning from my engine hoiste, much easier to clean and paint this way.  Whatever I was using to clean ran off of the transmission into a pan sitting on the table I had the transmission sitting on while I was replacing the seal.  Wont be long now.  I'll get to see if it works or not.  Then, I get to cruise around in this old gal.  

[NailheadBob]

Boy, it's looking good.

 

Bob

[avgwarhawk]

I have know doubt your assessment of the leak and resulting repairs will work just dandy! 

[Century Eight]

Sonomatic…I just got back on this site after almost a month and am amazed at your detail story on this issue. Thanks for going into such detail.  The old farts fixing this stuff are fading away and future readers will appreciate your explaining in such detail

 

Phil

[Sonomatic]

Quote

 

Sorry, I haven't posted in a while, I was sicck for a bit.  I'm back to it, doing a few things before I put the Dynaflow back in.  I wanted to share a tecknique I discovered on line for using Rustoleum.  We all know Rustoleum is an excellent protective paint.  We all also know that it takes forever to dry.  I found out that there is a hardener/activator that takes car of this issue.  I painted some parts yesterday with satin black and today, it's ready to install.  I mixed this 4oz paint, 3oz, reducer, 1/2oz hardener.  Sprayed it with a cheap, Harbor Freight HVLP gun, 3 coats.  The best part, this method is very inexpensive and bether than most things that come in a spray bomb.  Only down side is cleaning the gun.  I plan to do all chassis and engine parts, such as the  aircleaner and other components with this method.  Hope this is of help to some of you.  

[NailheadBob]

I hope you are felling better.

 

Which Harbor freight spray gun did you use?

 

Looking good as usual

 

Bob

[Sonomatic]

Thanks Nailhead Bob for you well wishes, they worked!  I've been back at it.  

-Replaced all 26 feet of heater hose

-Put transmission in, new thrust mount and transmission mount.  WARNING!  Look at old thrust mount hard to make sure you have all of the shims

-Mated rear axle to the torque ball

 

As you can see in the pictures, I took 3 4" bolts, chopped the heads off, cut a screw driver slot in each one and beveled the edge.  My plan was to use these to guide the torque tube into alignment with the torque ball.  The bottom one installed and worked as I had imagined, but the other two were too long.  1st, couldn't get a screw driver on them and 2nd, as the torque tube slid forward, they interfered where the torque tube expands in dimension.  I think they need to be shortened to 3" and, what would really ideal would be to file 4 flats so an open end wrench could be used to install/remove them.  Ben Bruce aka First Born, suggested taking the rear springs out.  I believe this would make maneuvering the rear end in and out of the torque ball splines easier, for sure.  What kept me from doing it was fear of ripping the nut plate out of the lower or upper spring perch and having to complete remove the rear, which would mean putting it outside for me, or having to leave it on jack stands, restricting movement under the car.  This worked out alright, but, if you can, remove the springs and life will be easier.  I'll finish up today with linkage, speedo cable, shock links, etc., today.  My next hold up is going to be waiting on my heater control valve to come back.  I sent it off last week and am at the mercy of USPS, which, I have to admit, has been pretty good here of late.  

[NailheadBob]

I agree should be 3" on the homemade alignment pins, but I usually cut deeper slots with a air powered cut off tool which makes a wider slot and deep enough so using a screw driver will fit better.

 

Your project is looking great, and your detail and photo's are great!

 

I can't wait to hear it running and seeing it driving with NO fluid leak.

 

Bob

[avgwarhawk]

Spring removal makes the entire removal of the torque tube extremely easy. Specifically if you are working alone.  The guide pins are also a must when going it alone.  Specifically if the driveshaft splines are keyed for a specific position. I cut mine to 2 1/2. 

Glad to see she coming back together. Hoping for favorable results!

[Sonomatic]

So today was the day.  I got the car together with the exception of bleeding the brakes.  Fired it up, no leaks.  I havent driven it yet, but, engaged each gear, no leaks.  It drove fine before, I did nothing to affect operation, so, I expect that when I drive it, it will drive just like it did before.  

[NailheadBob]

Great update 

 

Follow procedure in Buick shop manual for bleeding brakes

sequence L/F, R/F, L/R, R/R.

 

Bob

Edited May 14, 2023 by NailheadBob
Updated (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

17 hours ago, Sonomatic said:

So today was the day.  I got the car together with the exception of bleeding the brakes.  Fired it up, no leaks.  I havent driven it yet, but, engaged each gear, no leaks.  It drove fine before, I did nothing to affect operation, so, I expect that when I drive it, it will drive just like it did before.  

 

Job well done!

[Sonomatic]

Today I got to drive the Buick.  No leaks, works really well, as it did before I removed it to replace the front seal.  I also replaced the entire exhaust system, new shock links in the rear, new trans mount, new trans thrust mount, new polyurethatne Panhard rod bushings as recommended by Old_Tank.  New master cylinder.  New heater hoses.  Should be able to make some 50 mile trips and not worry too much. Lots left to do, but now we're into cosmetics, not roadworthy things.  I kind of fell off at the end with the pictures and such.  This was not a really hard task, but I still wound up taking slightly over 2 months.  I need to keep taking small, bite size projects to keep this care on the road and keep it from turning into another basket case that winds up scattered all over my garage and never gets put back together.  I plan on driving it to local shows and get to know the local Buick folks.  I think I've got a fun summer ahead.

[avgwarhawk]

Good to hear!

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

4 hours ago, Sonomatic said:

Today I got to drive the Buick.  No leaks, works really well, as it did before I removed it to replace the front seal.  I also replaced the entire exhaust system, new shock links in the rear, new trans mount, new trans thrust mount, new polyurethatne Panhard rod bushings as recommended by Old_Tank.  New master cylinder.  New heater hoses.  Should be able to make some 50 mile trips and not worry too much. Lots left to do, but now we're into cosmetics, not roadworthy things.  I kind of fell off at the end with the pictures and such.  This was not a really hard task, but I still wound up taking slightly over 2 months.  I need to keep taking small, bite size projects to keep this care on the road and keep it from turning into another basket case that winds up scattered all over my garage and never gets put back together.  I plan on driving it to local shows and get to know the local Buick folks.  I think I've got a fun summer ahead.

 

 Happy for you!!   Drive the wheels off.

 

  Ben

[EmTee]

Sounds like you have a new Buick -- drive on! 

[Sonomatic]

Thank you gentlemen.  I've been driving around town, using it to run errands and such.  I've got about 65 miles on my repair, and, so far so good.  I want to drive it to some of the local shows and such and figure out what it needs and I'll do those things this winter.  My biggest worry right now is getting rear ended because the back of the car doesn't light up like Xmas like new cars do.  There was a guy with a '50 Sedanette down in Florida, doing videos on Youtube who got rear ended.  Haven't seen anything about the car since.  

[EmTee]

1 hour ago, Sonomatic said:

My biggest worry right now is getting rear ended because the back of the car doesn't light up like Xmas like new cars do.

Well, there is this: https://www.brakelighter.com/brakelighter-6v-antique-car-3rd-light-p/tl-6n.htm

 

[JohnD1956]

5 hours ago, Sonomatic said:

There was a guy with a '50 Sedanette down in Florida, doing videos on Youtube who got rear ended.

Chances are it was someone who was distracted, although the brake lights are kinda sparse on a 50.  

[Century Eight]

 I am not totally unhappy with the stock lights on my 50, they’re fairly bright I would say although not large.  As EmTEE said you could add some of those aftermarket lights , as do the Model A guys.  Along time ago, I saw a guy that lit up his trunk handle light, and that was pretty cool.  

 

The bigger problem is the idiot that is following you.  They get mesmerized by an old car, like they have never seen one.  You have to keep one eye on the road and one eye in the rear view mirror.  Once I was hit in the rear in my ‘31 Chevy by a guy that was so busy starring at me he forgot to stop.  Fortunately that car was fairly indestructible but my ‘50 Buick would take damage.  I have good insurance though.  Ask me how know.

Edited May 31, 2023 by Century Eight (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

Consider LED bulbs for the brake lights. 

[Sonomatic]

What happens with the flasher when using leds?

[EmTee]

1 hour ago, Sonomatic said:

What happens with the flasher when using leds?

I think it depends on the specific LEDs that you buy.  Some have resistance added to satisfy the stock flasher.  Others may require changing to an LED-compatible flasher.

[punisher]

Very nice work felicitation