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Door Speaker Removal


minor4326

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Reatta door speakers can be changed without removing the door panel.    I have done several. 

With the door open and something on the ground to lay on. 

Pry out the bottom front of the door panel.... no screws involved. 

The speakers are in a plastic holder.... unplug the speaker,  remove the holder with speaker in place. 

I have a 4-5 inch piece of 2 x 4 that I use as a block to hold the panel out so you can get your hands in there 

to work.    It is also helpful if you have one of those small compact ratchet tools. 

 

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Thank you Barney for chiming in.  I found multiple discrepancies between the 88-89 Reatta door-panel removal and the 91. 

 

In order to use your method I think the door pulls should be removed to provide better movement for the door panel. The screws behind the door pulls in the '91 have to be removed using a small pry-tool to remove the end of each pull-end before the screws are exposed.

 

The screws that hold the plastic speaker enclosure are 7mm.

 

In MHO I think the bottom of the panel should be moved with great care if the bottom only is to be removed because the angle can break the higher plastic retainers. I'd be inclined to remove the whole panel enough to clear all of the retainers before the leveraging of the panel is accomplished.

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I wanted to continue to show the process for removing a 1991 door panel.  When I perform a door speaker removal next time I will not remove the door switches or their wiring.

 

Once the door switches are exposed the wiring needs to be separated from the switches before they can be separated from the door panel.  There are two screws, one at each end of the door switches that need to be removed. Once removed the silver metal piece can be separated from the armrest.

The way I separated the switch wiring was to remove the door panel by carefully but firmly separating the panel from the door as per instructions in Ronnie's post #4. These panels are different from any I've seen in that they separate horizontally not vertically, and are secured using long plastic "sticks".  Once the panel was off, I removed all the "stick" devices then reattached the panel at the window sill molding. In this way the "sticks" won't be damaged. 

I then lifted the switches high enough to remove the 7mm screws that secure the switches. 

There are also two additional wiring connectors, one attached to the door courtesy light as well as another wiring connector toward the front of the panel. That is for a switch for which I'm not sure what it does.  I was unable to separate these two two-wire connectors but for my specific purposes it wasn't necessary as I followed Barney's suggestion to use a piece of wood to prop open the bottom of the door panel enough to remove the screws securing the door speaker's plastics platform.

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  • 2 weeks later...

@barney eaton - this is what I learned: the door panel separates horizontal not vertical like most cars; A fork-type device should be used carefully at each securing location to separate the panel from the door; go around to each "stick" location and separate a little at a time until the panel is totally separated; remove the "sticks" from the panel so they don't get damaged; armrest switches and wiring can remain in place; secure the top of the panel using the "belt" at the window; use a block of wood to hold the bottom of the panel away from the door to access the nuts to remove the plastic speaker enclosure. 

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Not much happened, am on protected high ground next to a park away from the coast (deliberately), in the county on far SW side of Orlando. Can watch fireworks at Universal from garage roof. Didn't even bother the debris pile by the street from Ian.

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