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E-Track Install


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I put e-track the full length of my trailer just outside the wheels. It has worked well for me for years then I had a car that I wanted to us over the wheel tie downs on the front because I had length problems. I then added two more lengths just in the front of the trailer space so wheels were centered on the e-track. I like my system now because I have options. If I had different widths to plan for I might one car that would work best with tire hold downs and use that spacing and tie the rest down in or out. I think wider is probably better.

 

I had the original e-track installed by the trailer dealer. I immediately took out the wood screws he used and replaced them with bolts with large washers underneath and used twice as many as he used wood screws. I also made sure I had bolts go through any steel supports underneath that I could.

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I ordered a new trailer in July of last year and with COVID, it's currently being built.  I tried to order my trailer with the e-track and the salesman talked me into going with the airline track.  Reason being is because I ordered an aluminum trailer.

 

If you're ordering an aluminum trailer, you'll want the airline track because the E-track is of a different material which will cause a reaction (corrosion) between dissimilar metals.

 

I don't know what you have for a trailer, but thought I'd bring this to your attention.  

 

For what trailers cost today, I'd hate to see anyone buy something that would shorten the life of their trailer.

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(re: fasteners used in aluminum)  Interesting point. My trailer is aluminum, but the wood panels are attached with stainless steel screws. That's what I'm using to fasten down the e-track. The track won't actually touch the aluminum trailer frame, as it is screwed to the wood floor. I don't think electrolysis will be a problem so long as the fasteners don't get wet. I did the same thing 4 years ago on my aluminum F150, and no corrosion yet.

 

Phil

Edited by MochetVelo (see edit history)
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On 10/8/2022 at 7:24 PM, MochetVelo said:

I don't think electrolysis will be a problem so long as the fasteners don't get wet. I did the same thing 4 years ago on my aluminum F150, and no corrosion yet.

Nope I respect that.  It's a case of where I ordered a brand new Featherlite, it wasn't cheap and I'm just trying to protect my investment.  Had it not been for the owner of the company telling me that, I would've bought the cheaper E-track system and taken a chance of having a chemical reaction that could cause corrosion.

 

The new trailer is supposed to come off the Assembly line the end of this week.  I ordered it in July, 2021, it was supposed to be done in August and it still isn't done yet.  I'm not upset about it because I'd rather have it built right than to have it early and have problems.  I'm hoping this will be the last car trailer I'll ever buy.

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Back in the late 90's/early 2000's I was pulling around 2 different Featherlite Enclosed trailers : a 48 foot tri-axle 2 car & a 53 ft tri-axle 3 car with a lift in front. Since both had aluminum diamond plate flooring, we had a thin rubber pad between the E-tracks & the floor to keep the dissimilar metals insulated from each other. I doubt you will ever have any issues with yours though.

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

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I am a little confused so maybe someone can help. If stainless steel nuts and bolts are used to anchor the E-Track to the frame of an Aluminum trailer wouldn't you still have the dissimilar metals issue on the underside?  The underside of the trailer is gonna get wet and most insulation materials between the frame and the nuts &n boltsm will degrade over time (more so if the trailer is driven on icy, salty covered roads).

 

ex98thdrill, is your airline track being welded directly onto the floor of your new trailer? 

 

Thanks...

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On 10/10/2022 at 11:31 AM, Bills Auto Works said:

Back in the late 90's/early 2000's I was pulling around 2 different Featherlite Enclosed trailers : a 48 foot tri-axle 2 car & a 53 ft tri-axle 3 car with a lift in front. Since both had aluminum diamond plate flooring, we had a thin rubber pad between the E-tracks & the floor to keep the dissimilar metals insulated from each other. I doubt you will ever have any issues with yours though.

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

I'm not saying I'd have problems or not, but for the price that this trailer sold for, I'm afraid to take the chance.

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On 10/11/2022 at 9:38 PM, ex98thdrill said:

I'm not saying I'd have problems or not, but for the price that this trailer sold for, I'm afraid to take the chance.

 

 Yes Sir,

 

      Glad you went with the Featherlite! Other than an ATC, Featherlite is the best out there. I always thought that all aluminum trailers were built well, because generally the cheapo companies (like the ones in South Georgia) went with steel frames, but recently on another site I saw an "el cheapo" aluminum framed trailer that was purchase a few months ago & was already cracking around the walk in door opening & the inside was done in cardboard/press board walls! I just rolled my eyes as the owner told everybody that would listen that he was using a "custom built" quality aluminum trailer! LMAO!!!!

 

   If I buy another trailer before I retire, it will be an ATC & I will expect to pay a thousand dollars a foot for a 26 ft trailer!

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

          

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