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1948 Lincoln Continental ignition


Gregarious

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Replaced coil, condensers, set point gap and timing . Then started on 6v without going through the resistors and of course burned coil(s) internally I presume. It seemed to run fine though until it quit. So I now wired it to the resistors and evidently too late.   But static (non-running) volts is 6 coming from resistors and I thought should be 3 something. The resistors are these teeny wire wrapped porcelain cylinders with metal jackets were you connect the wires. I cant see how I could mis-wire it but see pics. There are two because each coil inside the distributor case feeds a separate set of points and condensers and then to the rotor. Really apologize for the pics, very hard to see I know underneath the dash. I measured 2.7 ohms ( or maybe 27?) on the 20 ohm setting. It reads 2.7 though.  Thoughts? 

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I used a regular multi-purpose guage. I measured at the resistor itself. Thanks. So if I get a new coil, I should be ok with standard resistor? Speedmaster or Vintage Auto Garage sells a conversion that uses two standard coils and a piece that contacts the rotor for $500 and a new rebuilt original coil is 300 so unsure which way to go. 

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I am an electrical/electronics guy and backyard mechanic who has experience with motorcycle and automotive  ignitions.  Your Lincoln setup is something I’ve never owned or worked on so I can’t offer much specific advice on it.  If you know or trust the conversion system that may be the best way to go.

 

For the ignition to work the coil must be drawing current from the battery.  The current is typically 3 to 4 amps in a traditional coil.  If the battery is 6v the coil will have about 2 ohms of internal resistance to allow 3 amps to flow.  If the resistance is increased to 3 ohms then 2 amps flows through the coil.  Current flow happens when the points are closed.  Spark happens when the current flow is stopped by the points opening. Usually the amount of current flow in the coil determines how much spark energy is created.  That current value is determined by the auto manufacturer and the type of coil and hardware used.  I guess the external resistors pictured are used to attain the optimum current flow through the stock coils.  
 

For ease of understanding and hardware requirements I would think a system that uses conventional coils would be easy to maintain.  Good luck with your adventure!

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I don't know anything about '48 Lincolns, but I have a 6V system in my two Model As and '51 Buick.  None of them have a resistor in the primary wiring, and they don't fry the coil out.    I always believed that resistors weren't added until the switch to 12V systems because 12Vs produce too big an arc back at the points and would  burn the points out too quickly, not  because the coil couldn't take 12V.

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If you are using conventional coils on a 6v system, there will be no resistor. That is because to the best of my knowledge, nobody makes a 6v coil in the "normal" format (cylindrical with 2 terminals and a tower on top) for use with a resistor. To the best of my knowledge nobody ever did. I have never seen one, and I don't expect to. Ask the vendor of the conversion kit, as they should know, but I can't see it going any other way.

 

Ford had some weird shape 6v coils that used a resistor. Maybe that is what you have. I can't tell much from the pictures.

 

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1 hour ago, TerryB said:

This is the V12 Lincoln.  There is a conversion kit made to allow the use of conventional coils in place of the stock ignition coils.  The stock coils are part of the distributor?

So looking on line I see the stock coil pack mounts to the top of the distributor and the condensers mount to the coil body.  Looks interesting !

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I found online there is a company that makes a kit to eliminate the factory setup and replace it with two externally mounted standard type coils.  To me that seems easier to keep running than the factory arraignment.  I’m always impressed with how the manufacturers addressed common functions in sometimes unique ways.  I’m sure they had a reason, it’s just not always clear🤔.

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Thanks for the input y'all. I ordered the replacement standard coil and yes it mounts to the top of the distributor body. See picS. There are actually two coils inside.  They feed the two points separately. The idea was I guess to keep everything compact and together as it fits just above the fan and pulley. The theory of resistors here is I assume to keep the heat in the coils down, so when I did the bypass of them, poof! All of the car is 6 v except for the 12v system running the A/C so I need to keep the hybrid system intact (I bought the car that way) . The fourth photo shows the caps and wires that come in from each side of the distributor and whose ends are within a few thousands of the rotor body. Would a wiring diagram help? See last pic. 

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I suggest that you send your original type coil to Skip Haney in Florida to have it rebuilt. His charge is $158.00 including shipping.

 

http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm

 

I don't know anything about the coil adapters for the V-12 cars, but the ones for the V-8 cars have been unreliable. The 6V can type coils have a bad reputation for reliability. I had to use 3 coils on my 53 Lincoln before I found one that would stand the under hood heat. I have been driving my 40 Merc with a Skip coil for 15 years without a problem. His coils are the only rebuilt coils used by V-8 owners that drive their cars a lot use. They are the most reliable ones. He also installs and times the points in your distributor.

 

There is an active Forum for the Lincoln cars on this site. You will get fewer guesses and more knowledge there.

 

https://forums.aaca.org/forum/23-lincoln-zephyr/

 

 

 

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