Gregarious

I am thinking the linkage is not right as the throttle arm in the factory manual points down and mine points up. Also, the "kicker " shaft was bent outward so as to allow the idle screw to rest against it as a stop. The choke is spring loaded internally to closed. Would think it should be the opposite. The picture shows a new Ford unit, which I understand is identical, next to the carb.

Thanks for the input y'all. I ordered the replacement standard coil and yes it mounts to the top of the distributor body. See picS. There are actually two coils inside. They feed the two points separately. The idea was I guess to keep everything compact and together as it fits just above the fan and pulley. The theory of resistors here is I assume to keep the heat in the coils down, so when I did the bypass of them, poof! All of the car is 6 v except for the 12v system running the A/C so I need to keep the hybrid system intact (I bought the car that way) . The fourth photo shows the caps and wires that come in from each side of the distributor and whose ends are within a few thousands of the rotor body. Would a wiring diagram help? See last pic.

I used a regular multi-purpose guage. I measured at the resistor itself. Thanks. So if I get a new coil, I should be ok with standard resistor? Speedmaster or Vintage Auto Garage sells a conversion that uses two standard coils and a piece that contacts the rotor for $500 and a new rebuilt original coil is 300 so unsure which way to go.

Replaced coil, condensers, set point gap and timing . Then started on 6v without going through the resistors and of course burned coil(s) internally I presume. It seemed to run fine though until it quit. So I now wired it to the resistors and evidently too late. But static (non-running) volts is 6 coming from resistors and I thought should be 3 something. The resistors are these teeny wire wrapped porcelain cylinders with metal jackets were you connect the wires. I cant see how I could mis-wire it but see pics. There are two because each coil inside the distributor case feeds a separate set of points and condensers and then to the rotor. Really apologize for the pics, very hard to see I know underneath the dash. I measured 2.7 ohms ( or maybe 27?) on the 20 ohm setting. It reads 2.7 though. Thoughts?

Leaking gas from main jet or the accelerator pump jet. There is also dirt there someplace.