Need Color Sanding Advice

[RansomEli]

I am in the middle of applying a beautiful black lacquer paint job. It's coming out just great. I had originally planned on first color sanding with 1000 grit, but after some testing I can probably start out with 1500 grit. I need advice on how to proceed to get an absolute mirror finish. Should I start with 1500, then goto 2000 or 2500? What kind of polishing compound should I use afterwards. What finishing glaze? I was planning to use 3M or Meguiars, so referencing product numbers would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

[1937hd45]

The real key is to have a bar of Ivory soap in the sanding bucket to lube the sandpaper. Squeegee off a one foot by one foot area to see how the sanding is going. Keep the sanding area wet. I like 3M compound and Ebony swirl remover.

[Friartuck]

I would recommend going in stages, 1500, then 2000, then 2500. Jumping right to 2500 may not remove the 1500 scratches nor "flatten" the surface. Agree with 1937HD, use of a few drops of detergent will act as a lubricator during the sanding process. I've also used 3M products, but was very satisfied with the four stage Meguirs system.

[DizzyDale]

Maybe you should start with 1200,depends how flat the surface is.Always remember the coarser the paper the flatter or straighter it will be.Use a 12 inch stick or hard rubber block for all blocking.I used 1200,1500,2000 then rubbed it and finished it with Finesse-It.As always just my 2-cents.diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

forget the sand paper. Use dupont #77 rubbing compound (i think the name has changed but it still carries the '77' formula). There r other brands too. Get a sheep skin bonnet for a power polisher that does not turn real fast (one of those body grinder types). IF u do not have at least 12-15 heavy coats of paint BE CAREFUL. Stay away from 'sharp edges' like fender beads and corners otherwise u will burn thru the paint with the polisher.

[DizzyDale]

Dear Packard V-8,Great advice in regards to getting it to shine,now how about getting it flat and level first.It is going to look like the North Atlantic in November unless you sand it first. As always just my 2-cents.diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[1937hd45]

Ya got that right Dale! So we're up to FOUR CENTS now!

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

Huh????? are u talking about sanding the primer BEFORE paint is applied????? i am talking about a buffing or wheeling operation AFTER the paint color is applied and dried. None of my Lacquer paint jobs look like Mt Everest. Not that i can see with my 20/15 vision in direct sun-lite.

Of course all i have used is DD acrylic lacquer. Some Amce too going back several years ago.

I keep hearing all of these 'bad raps' about lacquer. Especialy from paint pro's. The only draw back to the lacquer is the meticulous metal finishing that is required.

[DizzyDale]

Dear 1937HD45,I'll stop,Time to go to the garage and have some more fun with Hirschs best paint remover.diz <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Skyking]

I don't like starting with anything finer than 1000 grit. Anything higher will hop over the paint and won't leave it flat. I use 1000, 1500, 2000 grit and finish with 3M products.

[Jack Harlin]

This sanding lacquer color never was thought of untill the new paint system arrived.Very simple to avoid orange peel,

If prepped properly to begin with. Reduce correctly. Thinner only required so gun will spray, plus proper adjustment of air pressure. Angle the gin and over lap strokes using adjustment of material flow for speed of your stroke. Last couple time around the car reduce color with more thinner. If weather is damp, add a little retarder in these last coats. Not too much as it tends to harden finish and more difficult to compound. No sanding required unless you get a run or sag. Tack rag between coats. If you can smell paint its not ready to compound. Good idea if you have the time wait a week before machine and then light hand compounding keeping reg damp with few drops of water every so often. You'll catch on after awhile. Bigest mistake in compounding lacquer, when you think more compound needed thats when the gloss comes up and can see the difference, just use straight strokes. Might if 1st. time at this try it on a part not related to car for practice. Jack

[1937hd45]

Jack I've been wet sanding lacquer paint jobs before buffing for 35 years. What is the "new stuff" you are talking about?

[1937hd45]

NO, It is not the same job that I've been painting for 35 years!

[jw24spec6]

us paint pros dont like laquer because its unstable. if you live in an area where it gets really hot then really cold it will crack terribly also it resolves with thinner. it was state of the art 30 years ago along with the typewriter and the polariod, dont forget the telephone with the cord, slide rule get the picture. as for buffing compound i prefer 3m perfect it 3 system. it has around three or four steps its also not cheap. good luck jim

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

i think these guys are talking about using the new hvlp equipment to spray lacquer. I don't know. Never used the hvlp equipment. Most of the pros dont like the lacquer because it requires superior metal finishing, is HIGH labour intensive AND expensive. IF there is the slightest scratch in the metal it will show with lacquer. So the pros will pelt us with any horror story they can.

I have never had any trouble with the DD acylic lacquer products. One pro i know of uses a cheap brand primer and block sands after painting to remove the shrinkage. (he sprays enamels). I'm not sure why he does that. The cheap brands will SHRINK causing some of those 'Mt Everest' things that someone was talking about in an earlier post.

I also have 3 examples of lacquer (2 cars one motorcycle) with lacquer that is 25-40 years old and still looks GOOD considereing its age.

THERE IS NO FINER FINISH THAN DD ACRYLIC LACQUER at any price, any where, anytime or to anyone.

I will admit that my metal finishing skills have slipped or mayber never were what they should be. And yes, in some of my projects there r some flaws. But i will still insist on the lacquer for beauty and endurance until i see something better. urethane is close, but still no cigar.

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

lacquer UNSTABLE??????????????? C'mon! i painted a 56 HD sidecar with DD acylic laquer back in the mid 70's at 35 degrees F in a sweating garage with a godamn sears paint gun. The young son of one of the local custom painters remarked to his father 'WOW dad, look at that finish'. i sold the hack about 1983 and saw it again about 1989 and it still looked good. I'm not bragging on my abilities here BECAUSE lets face it, ANYONE with NO experience CAN spray that lacquer and still turn out professional looking finish if the meatal is streight.

I'm NOT trying to sell anyone anything here. I'm not in the painting bussiness or any other service. I strictly do my own. But i DO NOT want to see the lacquer fade from existence just because a the pros want to sell us something thats lesser in beauty and easier for them.

[1937hd45]

I agree that lacquer gives more depth to a finish. Wet sanding the top coat a week or more after it dries will make to look even deeper and speed up the buffing time. I've always wanted to try painting wire wheels with the new HVLP process.

[Restorer32]

Any reputable body shop these days will guarantee the durability of their Modern paint jobs for 5 years or so...find someone to do that with lacquer...I'm old enough to have used plenty of lacquer as well as all the modern two part urethanes and base clear systems. The modern paints are so far superior to anything available before that only someone who hasn't used them would argue otherwise. Lacquers are certainly easier for the amateur painter to apply and the results can be fantastic given enough time. Why would anyone think modern paints require less surface prep that lacquers? We still do exactly the same surface prep we did with lacquer only using non shrinking primers and surfacers. That was the big problem with lacquer products..shrinkage over days, weeks, and months. In the old days we would let lacquer shrink for several weeks between coats. There is no conspiracy among "pros" to convince anyone of the merits of modern paints..they speak for themselves. I loved lacquer, fun and easy to apply and the fumes wouldn't kill you nearly as quickly as the new catalyzed paints. I have stood beside more than 1 car at Hershey and smiled to myself when I heard an "oldtimer" show his Son a freshly painted car (base/clear or catalyzed urethane) and remark about the lovely, deep finish of the lacquer paint....for durability the modern systems can't be beat.

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

"...Lacquers are certainly easier for the amateur painter to apply and the results can be fantastic given enough time."

ok. i'll rest my case. BUT, what about touch up with the 'modern paints and processes'(i assume that means urethane/hvlp). Can the modern paints be touched up as easily and with every bit the perfect results that can be accomplished with the lacquer??????

I've made this offer before:

I will buy ANY COLOR of DD acrylic lacquer that is left-over stock REGARDLESS OF AGE as long as it is sloshy in the can. I will even buy it if it has been thinned and opened. Give me a price and quantity. Lets see what the 'pros' offer on this one.