Which Welder do I Buy?

[Guest Sifua]

I will have to do some body & fender work on my restoration (1936 Dodge D2). I also have to learn how to weld. I really could get nervous about the gas variety. My question is Which type of welder should I buy, and what power? I have read about the MIG welders, but there are so many diferent amps available.

[RoadsterRich]

I am in the same position, just learning about welding. I have been leanint towards one of the MIG units that can work with the shielding gas or self shielding. They cost a little more but are more versatile as well. I had been hoping to find a used one, but they same to be kept once purchased. I've noticed that there is a huge difference in price between similarly rated units of differing brands as well. I too would like to see some recommendations for brand, as well as features and capabilities.

Rich

[Restorer32]

In the shop we have 3 MIG welders as well as a TIG. With the MIG we've found that the less expensive ($600) pair we bought at Tractor Supply work just as well as our industrial size Miller. Be aware though, you still need to purchase or lease a gas tank. Use Argon/CO2 mixture for welding steel, straight Argon if you contemplate welding stainless. You'll find that even with the best equipment you will seldom "run a bead" while welding sheetmetal...it will be more a series of "spot welds" which you slowly fill in to a solid welded seam, allowing time to cool to the touch to avoid excess warpage. We often weld 40 or more hours/week..nothing too difficult about it but like everything there is a learning curve.

[Guest Indiana_Truck]

I know some people will not like this but it has worked for me for over 20 years with no problems ever.

I was trained to use the old oxy-acyetlene (sp?) torch and braize in new sheet metal. It works real good because I don't blow holes in the metal like a welder will and if you do it right, you wont have a lot of warpage. I do recomend that what ever you use, you should braze or weld it in solid and not spot it in because it will not last as long. I have never had a spot come back when I do it this way but you should always try to prime and paint the back side of the spot when you are done to keep it from rusting from the inside out.

Mig is good also from what I have heard but I am not a welder and sheet metal is thin. Not easy to weld thin steel but then again, cars from the 30's were made of real steel and not the beer can type stuff we have now.

[another old car]

after seeing the so called flux core / mig welders . I would buy a mig welder only , yea you'll have to buy co2 or argon/co2 mix . I have used both and I think you get a better mig weld from a true mig welder . most do change over. I think mig is a ac welder , and flux core is dc welder . flux core has the usefullness with its use outside in wind just like stick welding <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Albert]

I have done work with both oxy-acetylene and mig, I find mig you do not warp the steel as easy as oxy. As far as mig or flux core, go with the mig, the flux core tends to splatter a lot more, more cleanup, and the wire is a lot more expensive. The amperage that you choose is more up to the max thickness you want to weld, and your budget, but I have been using the 110V lincoln (migpac 100) with no problem using argon/co2 mix, as most work around the caris no more that 1/8 steel.

[jw24spec6]

brazing was ok but you need to get the acid off. as for the mig welders if you check pricing you will find a difference from the home depot grades and the welding shop pro grades by the grade that you think you need jim

[Guest HeyPop]

Last year I bought the Sears 90-amp Mig, welds from 24ga to 3/16" steel and 1/8" stainless. .024 and .030 wire. 20% duty at 90 amps but will go to 125 amps.

I had toyed with welding before at a local mower shop where I had worked for a summer but not an expert by all means! Really like this unit. $299.99!!! Cat # 20511. Sorry to sound like a commerial.

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

when welding sheet metal with oxy/acet u need to weld short sections at a time. Allow the metal to cool some between short sections of welding. As with any welding process it is important to have the metal clamped and supported FLAT. Thats not always easy to do. The oxy/acet rigs ARE PERFECTLY SAFE!!! As with any tool or shop device just minimal common sense is needed. I've lived nearly 50 years with the oxy/acet rig (sometimes 2 or 3 of them) as close as just a few feet from where i sleep. One of those rigs is older than i am. Many local ordances restrict use or ownership so keep it under your hat with the neighbors. Try to buy rather than rent the tanks.

A cheap AC arcwelder from sears can do wonders too. BUT, a good DC welder is much better and easier to use. Just depends on what u want to spend and how much u will use the equipment.

Most MIG welders (wire feed type) do a sloppy job. The TIG is about the finest but EXPENSIVE.

[1937hd45]

I have to second everything Packard V8 just stated above. MIG welding is the worst looking crap I've ever seen on body panels. Whatever time is claimed to be saved over gas welding is lost on grinding off the excess MIG welds and hiding the sins under Bondo. TIG is the top of the line and a joy to work with especially on aluminum.

[Restorer32]

dittos on the TIG being best...ours is a $5000 unit but we can weld almost anything including 1/32" thick aluminum....try that with a MIG! Great for giving yourself a really deep tan as well.

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

The MIG welders require nearly NO skill to use. All of the other types do require some skill that comes with a little practice(or some cases ALOT of practice). The MIG (wirefeedtype ) are good for frames and kind'a rough stuff.

[Paul S]

With proper gaps in the sheetmetal and the wire feed and heat set correctly, a mig will do a real nice job, especially if you use CO2/Argon mix. Straight CO2 works well but does not produce as nice of a weld. CO2 will work better on dirty metals, is less costly, BUT is NOT recommended on unibody cars. The CO2 can cause carbon imbrittlement in the metal, causing stress cracks.. I never used flux core wire without gas, so I can not give any feedback on that, other than you could probably get more slag inclusion in the weld that could pop out at a later date and ruin you work. A MIG will definetly put less stresses in the body than a gas torch.

[juddman]

I'm something of a novice, but I've read a few books and have taken an excellent autobody class in which I spent a good amount of time familiarizing myself with both MIG and Oxy-Acetylene. I like both, frankly. MIG is great for sheet metal, but oxy is more flexible - you can cut, heat (GREAT for looseneing rusted nuts and bolts!), braze, and weld with oxy. As long as you follow safety instructions in any good welding book, you won't hurt yourself. Use a light touch and it's pretty forgiving, too. Buy a good 110V MIG setup - (I have a Hobart) then save your pennies for oxy-acetylene. Once I figured out how to light the torch and get a neutral flame, I found oxy to be really fun.

Also, if you get a MIG, spring for an electric auto darkening helmet. It's a little money, but worth it for a novice safety wise. Regular MIG lenses are REALLY dark and I was afraid of welding my thumb!

[Restorer32]

Please do the next person who works on your car a favor and never "braze" any sheetmetal you intend to paint. Paint will not stay on brass brazing for an extended period of time. Just my opinion of course, but based on 25 years of restoring. Several good rules to follow...no overlapping or "flanged" welds, if you can't weld well enough to do a good butt weld practice until you can...no brazing of metal to be painted, ever...always remove all paint etc. down to bare metal..never trust anyone else's paintwork, not even the factory's.

[1937hd45]

I'll SECOND that! I'll never forget seeing a 1930 Ford TOWNCAR (yes, they made very few of them) that someone distroyed brazing every door,and quarter panel and fender.It showed up at a flea market, and the guy was proud of what he had done! A 55 gallon drum of Bondo wouldn't have hidden it.

[Guest Indiana_Truck]

Never use brass? I wish someone had told me that 20 years ago when I did the body work on my 68 Mustang before I painted it black because now after 20 years it needs painted again, but only because I left it in the sun and the paint has oxidized but the body work still looks as good as it did 20 years ago. If you do it right, it will last forever!

I would not use brass where the part is under stress but it does hold up well.

Now what will someone say is wrong with putting <span style="font-weight: bold">lead</span> on a car? I know it is bad for your health but it will outlast me anyway.