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Compression Standards for 1948 Pontiac 8 cyl


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Its going to be tough to get 1000 rpm when you are cranking on the 6V starter so those compression figures are somewhat optimistic.!!

It depends on the C.R of the  engine but if its standard Compression ratio with a standard  camshaft grind you should see   approx 105 to 120 psig  at operating  temp with all the plugs removed and the throttle held wide open....

Its not so much the ultimate pressure but the variance between the  cylinders  to give you good cylinder balance and a smooth running engine. 

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3 minutes ago, RussJagoau said:

Its going to be tough to get 1000 rpm when you are cranking on the 6V starter so those compression figures are somewhat optimistic.!!

It depends on the C.R of the  engine but if its standard Compression ratio with a standard  camshaft grind you should see   approx 105 to 120 psig  at operating  temp with all the plugs removed and the throttle held wide open....

Its not so much the ultimate pressure but the variance between the  cylinders  to give you good cylinder balance and a smooth running engine.

Agreed!  One would have to start an engine with each of eight plugs removed, one at a time, and then raise engine speed beyond idle to 1,000 rpm.  A more useful Rule of Thumb is to multiply the compression ratio x 14.7 psig (at sea level) and use the product as a benchmark.  For example, 6.5 c.r. x 14.7 psig = approx. 95 psi at cranking speed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You spotted that, huh?

 

Yes, the previous owner attempted to convert the car to 12V, burned all the gauges, radio etc up.

So, I rewired the car, I re-wound the gauges for 12V, converted the guts of the radio to 12V, clock etc.

It's easier if I need parts when out on the highway, not many places have any 6V stuff in stock, but mid 60's 12V parts are plentiful still.

 

Phil

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16 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

You spotted that, huh?

 

Yes, the previous owner attempted to convert the car to 12V, burned all the gauges, radio etc up.

So, I rewired the car, I re-wound the gauges for 12V, converted the guts of the radio to 12V, clock etc.

It's easier if I need parts when out on the highway, not many places have any 6V stuff in stock, but mid 60's 12V parts are plentiful still.

Got it, thanks.  I haven't closely followed your adventures but see your posts from time to time.  Congrats on making the best of a difficult situation!

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2 minutes ago, Grimy said:

Got it, thanks.  I haven't closely followed your adventures but see your posts from time to time.  Congrats on making the best of a difficult situation!

It's been fun! They're well engineered vehicles, with repairable parts. 

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As RussJagoau already mentioned, do not get hung up on absolute pressure, particularly if you are just trying to ascertain overall wear of the engine. Evenness between cylinders is what it is all about. That will tell you if the engine can most likely be tuned to run well. No two mechanics will come up with the same absolute numbers.

 

A leakdown test will tell you more about the condition of the engine with regard to miles, ring wear, etc. but even that is probably no good if the car has been sitting around a long time. There will be crud on the valve faces, rings that stick, etc. This all makes the engine look worse than it actually is.

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1 hour ago, Bloo said:

Evenness between cylinders is what it is all about. That will tell you if the engine can most likely be tuned to run well.

Agreed here- #3 on mine is 105psi- the rest are 115-120 average. If you see the pressures within 10 psi of min to max it'll run nicely. You can hear #3 on mine with a gentle THUB each exhaust stroke but it's not enough to warrant doing anything drastic.

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20 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

You can hear #3 on mine with a gentle THUB each exhaust stroke

 

I wouldn't be concerned about 105 either, but I'm pretty sure you should not be hearing that. When you get time I suggest you nail down which cylinder does that (might not be the one with 105lb!) and then recheck the valve adjustment on that cylinder, ohm test the plug wire, see if there could be a vacuum leak near the intake port, etc.

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3 minutes ago, Bloo said:

 

I wouldn't be concerned about 105 either, but I'm pretty sure you should not be hearing that. When you get time I suggest you nail down which cylinder does that (might not be the one with 105lb!) and then recheck the valve adjustment on that cylinder, ohm test the plug wire, see if there could be a vacuum leak near the intake port, etc.

I got a lifter with a chewed up adjustment thread that likes to shift over a thousand miles or so, it opens up. It's got a gentle click to it right now,and I think it needs lapping in more on the intake valve but I really don't feel like pulling the head off right now...

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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