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Everything posted by RussJagoau

  1. Hi Gents Re the bracket next to # 5 plug as mentioned is for the throttle linkage as obviously we are on the opposite side to you guys over there. The gearcase is not the same for Right hand as compared to LH drive vehicles as the linkages to connect the column shift rods are on the opposite side. The internal cross shafts exit on the RH side of the gear case to suit the RH column linkages. Bellhousing is also different as the clutch throwout fork etc are all Right handed where they exit the housing. For the carburettors - I have an Ultra-sonic cleaner that works well for Fuel system components , used a water based fluid with some degreaser and Bi-Carb of soda, some soak time first with a few runs through the Ultra Sonic cleaner at max temp and it brings up components well. The carb in the picture was done a few years ago so its not as bright as it once was though.
  2. Hello again, Finished Product for the Manifold Studs / Nuts combination .
  3. Hello, Ive had the manifolds off my '51 and 53 a couple of times now over the years, mainly for valve lash checks and other times to replace the manifold stud set as the rear most one was broken on the 53. I machined a full set of studs to replace the originals as they have obviously seen a large number of thermal cycles over the years. Replaced all the nuts with Brass manifold 3/8 UNF nuts specifically as for 2 reasons: no antiseize required as being non-ferrous it wont corrode to the stud thread, 2- the brass thread will give up easier than the steel stud if for an unknown reason it does pickup over time. Also replaced the flange gasket studs and used brass nuts at the same time for the same reasons. Final torque values were 25 ft/lbs with No sealer on the manifold gasket. As the manifolds are not water cooled I could see no reason to apply the sealant and as such have used the same joint gasket numerous times now when doing routine maintenance on the 2 Chieftains. To torque the nuts especially the difficult access ones I use a 1/2 universal socket ( ie one that has the unijoint built in to the socket) That's the only tool I can find to get an accurate grab on the nut to allow the torque value to be applied. So far the fix has been ideal in that the manifolds are easy to remove as the nuts come off the studs readily , the manifolds haven't cracked so enough lateral movement on the studs to prevent stress and none of the new stud set has cracked or parted. The gasket comes off cleanly every time and as such I have re-used them on at least 2 occasions now after scheduled maintenance. Worked well for me.
  4. As an owner of a 51 in a hot climate, I also suffer with the vaporisation of the modern fuels in the summer monthes. My 51 and 53 Chieftains have 170 degree thermostat's installed and the radiator is in good condition with good heat transfer, good temperature differential measured across inlet and outlet. As a suggestion you may wish to try wrapping your metal fuel lines in silver foil paper, as this acts a heat shield and will prevent heat transfer from inside the engine bay. It will also determine if your issue is indeed fuel vaporisation or another problem with similar symptoms. It cured the cause on my old girl particulary after driving in warn days and then idling or parked for a while when the heat transfer takes place into the carburettor fuel bowl and fuel lines. I originally had it around the fuel bowl and it cured the problem, I have since removed it from the bowl and manufactured a more professional looking heat shield that is mounted to the original heat shield between carb and intake manifold. Suggest you try it and see what the outcome is, if it cures your vaporisation issue then that's a start. Then you can investigate the higher than normal temp profile across your radiator as it does seem quite warm given the operating temps you stated.
  5. Howdy I have a 51 and a 53 Pontiac and know the difficulty in locating the Spats. It took me quite a few years to get the reasonable sets for my vehicles , especially in Australia as I had to purchase from overseas. Best of luck with your search. If you need any pics or dimensions of the Spats, I can surely measure them for you. Rgds
  6. Sometimes if you get a balancer thats been in place for a lot of years, these require some force to be removed from the crank snout.... and these balancers can be pulled off with a large gear puller, with the jaw hooks set to inside the belt sheave sides on the pulley. That being the case make sure the pulley / sheave sides are protected from the steel jaw hooks. I find Aluminium Vee bar / angle is a good protection method that prevents damaging the belt runs when you wind on the puller draw bolt !
  7. The way that I have installed these seals in the past is as Summershandy states, ie the cork seal is the stationary element of the seal so it should be glued or cemented to the timing cover , the pressed steel shroud thats keyed to the crank is the rotating face , hence the contact face between the 2 elements is where one sealing surface is, the second one is the hub O.D on the harmonic balancer to the I.D of the cork inner face. You wouldnt want the cork face rotating against the timing cover ?? but between the inner face of the cork ring and the pressed steel shroud that rotates with the crank. Non hardening Permatex on these corks when cemented or glued to the timing cover seems to work well so far.
  8. So the crank pinion looks to be at TDC given the orientation of the key. But the cam gear looks to be 180 degrees out... ..a full turn of the crank should see the correct marks line up together. I would think given the current crank angle thats indicated then that engine is on the exhaust stroke of the No 1 cylinder.... the Inlets on these engines have a 224 degree duration whereas the exhaust is 230 degree and minimal overlap so they are quite simple to valve time... To check that with the head on is quite simple, remove the plugs and install a piece of tissue into the #1 plug hole. Rotate the engine in the normal CW direction, if the tissue is drawn in its intake , conversely if its blown out its compression. this combined with the position of the rotor in the distributor should be a giveaway as to the what stroke in the cycle that the cylinder is on. As the engine has been running ok, then its also a simple matter of re-placing the chain with the same number of link s / pins of the timing chain from the timing marks used. You dont have to use the factory timing marks, as long as the phasing of the cam to the crank goes back in exactly the same position that you removed it. So if the car was a runner prior, replace the chain and ensure the timing marks are in exactly the same location before you pulled the chain.....
  9. I have seen in some cases the clutch disc is installed backwards ( ie long side of the splined disc hub to the flywheel side as opposed to short side to the flywheel side ) this then pushed the pressure plate back towards the gearbox front and prevent the clutch from operating. Generally when the engine is started the long splined hub will clash with the spigot / pilot bearing and the resulting noise is quite obvious. Plus the clutch will not disengage. Maybe this is the reason for the spacers being installed ? Clutch assy.pdf
  10. Hi 46 Poncho This may help you. Im north of Brisbane and have a few other pics and dimensions if that's of any help and a service manual that this pic came from. Lets know how you get on. Clutch assy.pdf
  11. Hi All, Just enquiring if any of the members have ever balanced the 6 cylinder Side Valve engine during a rebuild ? My 51 has a critical speed vibration in it at about 2500 rpm, both loaded and under no-load. Its has good compression across all the cylinders and the Leak down test is less than 30% on all the pots, so the cylinder balance should be fine. It runs sweet but has a vibration at one particular rev range..... The harmonic balancer appears to be in good condition as by visual inspection there is no distortion evident and the timing marks line up with a degree wheel so no slippage there on the outher pulley from the hub. Borescope inspection is all normal in each cylinder so ..... I have the equipement to balance the piston / rod assemblies but will need to have the crank, flywheel, pressure plate and harmonic balancer dynamically balanced if its time to look inside. Any experiences from other engine builders on these 50's engines ? Thanks
  12. Thanks - pls let us know what you find and even a pic or two of the treasures hidden away in there
  13. Howdy - yes you can drop the oil pan from the block with the engine in situ, as I have done on previous occasions. You may want to try draining the oil from the pan first then pour a ltr of diesel down the oil filler and see what comes out of the oil pan drain hole. Just be aware that early Pontiacs have the oil cleaner inside the oil pan on the intake to the oil pump so dont start the engine to circulate the "flushing oil"otherwise you may well stir up and deposit a heap of unwanted debris in the oil cleaner. For what its worth for an oil pan gasket and a few hours labor, its good insurance to pull the oil pan and the oil cleaner and clean out the 50 odd years of accumulated gunge, as from what I have seen most of these era vehicles havent used detergent oils and the gunge build up can be extensive.
  14. Hi Steve, Not having both model throwout forks on front of me but having the part listing shows there is a different part number for your 1940 ( 501868) vs 508923 that's listed for the 1946-53 models. Crankshaft / gearbox Centreline is centreline however and it seems unusual that as you have used the original 40 model bellhousing and associated components it should line up to the crankshaft ,/ gearbox main drive shaft centreline. There is a degree of axial float of the throwout bearing on the fork to allow for alignment and movement as the fork moves though its arc when the pedal is depressed , but obviously there must be a problem to cause the mis-alignment you quote. One thing I would suggest you check is the concentricity of the bellhousing counterbore , when using a mandrel fitted to the Spigot bush / bearing and a dial indicator mounted to the mandrel shaft, I have seen these bellhousings to be "eccentric" rather than concentric when checked with a dial indicator, to the extent the bellhousing had to be re-aligned and dowelled into the block to hold its position. But that amount was approx. 0.200" not 0.375 as you are seeing. It did make for a very shuddering clutch action though..... Can you post a pic or 3 to make the picture clearer for us from afar ? Thanks .
  15. Hello, if you use a vernier to measure the ring groove dimensions ( width ) , that will soon tell you if the ring lands have been machined to accept the spacers as PM5471 states above. This was a standard refurbishment procedure to use when the ring lands had worn past the tolerance - usually on the lower land of the ring groove and generally on the upper most compression ring groove. When the grooves were worn, the rings were prone to flutter and breakage, especially if the bore was tapered with wear. As for the ones I have seen, the lands also wear in a tapeed r profile , hence the need to square things up again. The spacers were normally quite thin and were one piece only, if you could post a few pics that would assist to identify what the components are. rgds
  16. Hi Poncho 48, im from QLD and can help with your queries, if you send me a private message with your email address I can send you the relevant section of the engine service manual. rgds
  17. Thanks 51pontiac for your kind words. Like most re-paints its not perfect however it's the original color which I think is important, to me originality is the main purpose of restoring these old beauties, but each to their own. Of the 50,s era Pontiacs in Aus, the majority I have seen are 6 cylinder power plants, even though the 8 cylinder far outsold the 6 in the U.S. from what I know. One of the biggest challenges that we are faced with down here is sourcing original parts with the tyranny of distance, it can be an expensive pastime, but one I consider to be worth the effort and expense. thanks
  18. Fitz, it's not reversed, it's the correct way for us down under, since these pics were posted I have collected a few more pieces such as full wheel trims, a original front bumper over rider kit and various other original pieces including a chieftain 6V push button radio that's been reconditioned. At bit more work to be done yet to finish it and a re- set of the rear springs as one side has sagged slightly from sitting idle for many years. When i pull the rear leafs for the re- set will go thru the rear axle and drive line as one uni-joint has been installed back to front, so will rectify that. will also check the drive line angles as i suspect the centre lines are not so parallel based on initial alignment checks. Once I'm back home full time will be able to get into the details a bit more and finish the outside and the mechanicals as she needs a good complete tune including a leak down test, adjust the valve lash and check the ignition advance curve as I suspect it's slightly retarded at highway speeds. Still she is on the road again which is a milestone in itself. The amount of people who comment about it and have taken pictures of the vehicle never ceases to amaze me, it makes one proud to own a classic piece of motoring history and be so very fortunate to be able to drive it as opposed to simply look at pictures of these beauties....
  19. Hello, good advice from carbking about trying to start an engine that has been slumbering for so long.... a whole bunch of things you should ideally look at but as a minimum pull the plugs and get some oil into the cylinder bores and turn it over by hand if possible before doing much of anything else.....'also look to get some oil onto the valve stems / guides if you can to prevent a dry start..... D rop the engine oil and put a fresh charge in and crank it without the plugs to get the oil circulating before you try to fire it up....... Re the carb being frozen on the butterflies - these usually stick between the shaft and the throttle body but it could be a number of places. I have found a 50 /50 mix of Auto trans fluid / diesel works well for applications like this, but it may take a while to free it off. Immerse the throttle body in the penetrating solution for a week or so and then give the throttle body a gentle tap on the sides whilst working the throttle shaft to try and break the bond. These carbs are pretty robust but be patient..... I have brought some back from the dead that had been sitting for years with no protection from the elements and with some TLC they are recoverable. Lift the air horn on the carb and make sure its all clean inside and splash some WD - 40 around in there to lube things up a bit ..... best of luck .
  20. Hi Joe That's a simple by-pass for the heater core that has been disconnected or missing for whatever reason. Many older vehicles had the isolation valve installed to stop the flow of hot jacket water thru the heater core during the summer monthes as our '53 Chieftain has a similar disk type valve installed. The water flow is coming from the cylinder head back to the low pressure side of the water pump which gives the pressure differential to create the flow through the heater core ( if fitted) as my 51 is plumbed in a similar fashion. You could plug both the inlet and outlet and there should be no change to the cooling system efficiency or flow rates . I doubt if it would help the corroded water flow distribution tube issue as you mentioned as it effectively allows that volume of coolant to bypass the radiator all the time - however as the coolant is flowing from the high pressure side back to the suction side of the pump it may ?? It would be hard to quantify .
  21. Hi Ricosan, I work with turbo rotating machinery that spins at very high rpms, and the vibration sensors that OldIron mentions above may not be suitable as most vibration monitors measure in extremely small measurements such as velocity, frequency or displacements in micrometers . These systems are used to detect levels of vibration that are not detectable by the human senses. From your description the vibration issue you are experiencing is at a level way higher than Condition Based Vibration Monitoring Equipment that is used on Turbo machinery such as Bentley Nevada systems etc. Given you have had the driveshaft dynamically balanced, its still only a single component in the string of the drive line. It doesent take into account the other components that are rotating at the same time at different rpms hence different frequencies..... Once you have run the vehicle with the wheels off and if the vibe still exits, maybe try attaching weights to the driveshaft using hose clamps ( bearing in mind they will have rotating mass themselves. ) A visual check under the vehicle when its vibrating at the levels you describe may well identify the root cause area...... then suggest to try the temporary weight attachments on the rotating elements or driveshaft. In the middle of the shaft may be a good place to start as its the longest area of unsupported mass, and most susceptible to whip of dynamic unbalance as the rpms increase. I had good success with this method in other applications on low to medium speed applications... Its worth a try as you have nothing to lose but lots to gain Look forward to see the results and hope it goes someways to help identify the problem area that's the root casue of the vibration, for like any vibrations, the lower the better as it can cause massive amounts of undue wear over time. Good luck
  22. Here is my latest 4 wheel project that is "almost" complete - a 1951 Chieftain 6 cyl 3 spd . She now drives well and was / is rust free, but still needs some TLC to get it back to 100% as time allows. I like it
  23. A quick check for your brake booster (apart from what you have already determined in there is no vacuum assist with it connected or disconnected to the engine manifold vacuum , when trying to stop.) Try this - With the engine stopped, push the brake pedal as far down as it will go at least 5-8 times to utilize any remaining vacuum within the booster. Then holding the brake pedal down, start the engine. If the pedal stays at the same height, the booster is kaput. If the pedal drops down, then there is assistance occurring due to the Differential pressure across the booster to the brake hydraulics. Also if you pump the pedal rapidly when the engine is idling, if the booster is functioning the engine should go off song until the vacuum is stabilized within the intake manifold again....... Re the "put put put" in the exhaust at idle, suggest that the leak down test may well be the ideal test here to identify if you have a cylinder / engine valve slightly off song there...... I doubt if its spark as there is minimal engine fuel load then and a miss will usually occur in an under engine load..... if you can locate someone to do the leak down test then its valuable information to be had. I do it on a regular basis ( every oil change ) as its a great tool for condition based monitoring of engines. .... Drag racers also do this after every pass to ensure the engine is still operating at max efficiency .. If you want I can send you a procedure of how to do it if you are not familiar with it, you will need an air compressor and a Leak down tester with suitable spark plug threaded adaptors, send me a PM so I can email it across to you.<o:p></o:p> cheers <o:p></o:p>
  24. Hello Based on your description , you are seeing whats termed as "Ported Vacuum" from the Carb throttle body base. This take off point is used specifically for the vacuum advance on the dizzy and will not give a true indication of the engine manifold vacuum. In my expereince the ported vacuum drilling / tapping point is different for auto and mans trans vechicles, hence the different part number in many spares catalogues for the carb throttle bodies. In manual transmissions there is generally no vacuum at idle, whereas in Autos there is. Thats why when you disconenct the line at idle, its actually retarding the spark timing hence the drop in engine rpms. You can check that with a strobe timing light to confirm what Im surmising here. If the engine is idling smoothly, you are correct in that there is no vacuum leak present. So to get a true manifold vacuum reading you need to locate a tapping point under the throttle body of the carb, such as a vacuum pump, vacuum wiper motor, brake booster connection if fitted etc. My Chieftain has a combination vacuum / fuel pump which interconnects to the wiper vacuum motor and so its simple to tie the Hg gauge into. At the wiper motor i see true manifold vacuum and time the engine accordingly and check that using the strobe light. Its a sure fire way to get your spark timing correct, but you still may have to retard it slightly if you suffer from detonation if advanced too far. You should check your total spark advance at say 3000 rpms for this is the critical setting, timing at idle is only the starting point and depending on many parameters ( vacuum and mechanical advance being only 2 parameters to start ) the Total advance may be excessive at highway speed, and you cant hear the detonation then........... generally the higher the compression the less the total spark advance........... Generally these old girls run approx 28-32 deg Total spark advance. There will be no marks to measure that amount of degree's of spark timing. To mark the front pulley is quite simple using the formula : Pulley diameter * 3.1416 divided by 36 or 72 - this gives the linear distance on the pulley diameter for 10 or 5 degree increments......... Hope this helps.