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About RussJagoau

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/27/1960

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    Ex Auto mechanic, love old cars and specifically Pontiac Chieftains

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  1. Hi Gents Re the bracket next to # 5 plug as mentioned is for the throttle linkage as obviously we are on the opposite side to you guys over there. The gearcase is not the same for Right hand as compared to LH drive vehicles as the linkages to connect the column shift rods are on the opposite side. The internal cross shafts exit on the RH side of the gear case to suit the RH column linkages. Bellhousing is also different as the clutch throwout fork etc are all Right handed where they exit the housing. For the carburettors - I have an Ultra-sonic cleaner that works well for Fuel system components , used a water based fluid with some degreaser and Bi-Carb of soda, some soak time first with a few runs through the Ultra Sonic cleaner at max temp and it brings up components well. The carb in the picture was done a few years ago so its not as bright as it once was though.
  2. Hello again, Finished Product for the Manifold Studs / Nuts combination .
  3. Hello, Ive had the manifolds off my '51 and 53 a couple of times now over the years, mainly for valve lash checks and other times to replace the manifold stud set as the rear most one was broken on the 53. I machined a full set of studs to replace the originals as they have obviously seen a large number of thermal cycles over the years. Replaced all the nuts with Brass manifold 3/8 UNF nuts specifically as for 2 reasons: no antiseize required as being non-ferrous it wont corrode to the stud thread, 2- the brass thread will give up easier than the steel stud if for an unknown reason it does pickup over time. Also replaced the flange gasket studs and used brass nuts at the same time for the same reasons. Final torque values were 25 ft/lbs with No sealer on the manifold gasket. As the manifolds are not water cooled I could see no reason to apply the sealant and as such have used the same joint gasket numerous times now when doing routine maintenance on the 2 Chieftains. To torque the nuts especially the difficult access ones I use a 1/2 universal socket ( ie one that has the unijoint built in to the socket) That's the only tool I can find to get an accurate grab on the nut to allow the torque value to be applied. So far the fix has been ideal in that the manifolds are easy to remove as the nuts come off the studs readily , the manifolds haven't cracked so enough lateral movement on the studs to prevent stress and none of the new stud set has cracked or parted. The gasket comes off cleanly every time and as such I have re-used them on at least 2 occasions now after scheduled maintenance. Worked well for me.
  4. As an owner of a 51 in a hot climate, I also suffer with the vaporisation of the modern fuels in the summer monthes. My 51 and 53 Chieftains have 170 degree thermostat's installed and the radiator is in good condition with good heat transfer, good temperature differential measured across inlet and outlet. As a suggestion you may wish to try wrapping your metal fuel lines in silver foil paper, as this acts a heat shield and will prevent heat transfer from inside the engine bay. It will also determine if your issue is indeed fuel vaporisation or another problem with similar symptoms. It cured the cause on my old girl particulary after driving in warn days and then idling or parked for a while when the heat transfer takes place into the carburettor fuel bowl and fuel lines. I originally had it around the fuel bowl and it cured the problem, I have since removed it from the bowl and manufactured a more professional looking heat shield that is mounted to the original heat shield between carb and intake manifold. Suggest you try it and see what the outcome is, if it cures your vaporisation issue then that's a start. Then you can investigate the higher than normal temp profile across your radiator as it does seem quite warm given the operating temps you stated.
  5. Howdy I have a 51 and a 53 Pontiac and know the difficulty in locating the Spats. It took me quite a few years to get the reasonable sets for my vehicles , especially in Australia as I had to purchase from overseas. Best of luck with your search. If you need any pics or dimensions of the Spats, I can surely measure them for you. Rgds
  6. Sometimes if you get a balancer thats been in place for a lot of years, these require some force to be removed from the crank snout.... and these balancers can be pulled off with a large gear puller, with the jaw hooks set to inside the belt sheave sides on the pulley. That being the case make sure the pulley / sheave sides are protected from the steel jaw hooks. I find Aluminium Vee bar / angle is a good protection method that prevents damaging the belt runs when you wind on the puller draw bolt !
  7. The way that I have installed these seals in the past is as Summershandy states, ie the cork seal is the stationary element of the seal so it should be glued or cemented to the timing cover , the pressed steel shroud thats keyed to the crank is the rotating face , hence the contact face between the 2 elements is where one sealing surface is, the second one is the hub O.D on the harmonic balancer to the I.D of the cork inner face. You wouldnt want the cork face rotating against the timing cover ?? but between the inner face of the cork ring and the pressed steel shroud that rotates with the crank. Non hardening Permatex on these corks when cemented or glued to the timing cover seems to work well so far.
  8. So the crank pinion looks to be at TDC given the orientation of the key. But the cam gear looks to be 180 degrees out... ..a full turn of the crank should see the correct marks line up together. I would think given the current crank angle thats indicated then that engine is on the exhaust stroke of the No 1 cylinder.... the Inlets on these engines have a 224 degree duration whereas the exhaust is 230 degree and minimal overlap so they are quite simple to valve time... To check that with the head on is quite simple, remove the plugs and install a piece of tissue into the #1 plug hole. Rotate the engine in the normal CW direction, if the tissue is drawn in its intake , conversely if its blown out its compression. this combined with the position of the rotor in the distributor should be a giveaway as to the what stroke in the cycle that the cylinder is on. As the engine has been running ok, then its also a simple matter of re-placing the chain with the same number of link s / pins of the timing chain from the timing marks used. You dont have to use the factory timing marks, as long as the phasing of the cam to the crank goes back in exactly the same position that you removed it. So if the car was a runner prior, replace the chain and ensure the timing marks are in exactly the same location before you pulled the chain.....
  9. I have seen in some cases the clutch disc is installed backwards ( ie long side of the splined disc hub to the flywheel side as opposed to short side to the flywheel side ) this then pushed the pressure plate back towards the gearbox front and prevent the clutch from operating. Generally when the engine is started the long splined hub will clash with the spigot / pilot bearing and the resulting noise is quite obvious. Plus the clutch will not disengage. Maybe this is the reason for the spacers being installed ? Clutch assy.pdf
  10. Hi 46 Poncho This may help you. Im north of Brisbane and have a few other pics and dimensions if that's of any help and a service manual that this pic came from. Lets know how you get on. Clutch assy.pdf
  11. Hi All, Just enquiring if any of the members have ever balanced the 6 cylinder Side Valve engine during a rebuild ? My 51 has a critical speed vibration in it at about 2500 rpm, both loaded and under no-load. Its has good compression across all the cylinders and the Leak down test is less than 30% on all the pots, so the cylinder balance should be fine. It runs sweet but has a vibration at one particular rev range..... The harmonic balancer appears to be in good condition as by visual inspection there is no distortion evident and the timing marks line up with a degree wheel so no slippage there on the outher pulley from the hub. Borescope inspection is all normal in each cylinder so ..... I have the equipement to balance the piston / rod assemblies but will need to have the crank, flywheel, pressure plate and harmonic balancer dynamically balanced if its time to look inside. Any experiences from other engine builders on these 50's engines ? Thanks
  12. Thanks - pls let us know what you find and even a pic or two of the treasures hidden away in there
  13. Howdy - yes you can drop the oil pan from the block with the engine in situ, as I have done on previous occasions. You may want to try draining the oil from the pan first then pour a ltr of diesel down the oil filler and see what comes out of the oil pan drain hole. Just be aware that early Pontiacs have the oil cleaner inside the oil pan on the intake to the oil pump so dont start the engine to circulate the "flushing oil"otherwise you may well stir up and deposit a heap of unwanted debris in the oil cleaner. For what its worth for an oil pan gasket and a few hours labor, its good insurance to pull the oil pan and the oil cleaner and clean out the 50 odd years of accumulated gunge, as from what I have seen most of these era vehicles havent used detergent oils and the gunge build up can be extensive.
  14. Hi Steve, Not having both model throwout forks on front of me but having the part listing shows there is a different part number for your 1940 ( 501868) vs 508923 that's listed for the 1946-53 models. Crankshaft / gearbox Centreline is centreline however and it seems unusual that as you have used the original 40 model bellhousing and associated components it should line up to the crankshaft ,/ gearbox main drive shaft centreline. There is a degree of axial float of the throwout bearing on the fork to allow for alignment and movement as the fork moves though its arc when the pedal is depressed , but obviously there must be a problem to cause the mis-alignment you quote. One thing I would suggest you check is the concentricity of the bellhousing counterbore , when using a mandrel fitted to the Spigot bush / bearing and a dial indicator mounted to the mandrel shaft, I have seen these bellhousings to be "eccentric" rather than concentric when checked with a dial indicator, to the extent the bellhousing had to be re-aligned and dowelled into the block to hold its position. But that amount was approx. 0.200" not 0.375 as you are seeing. It did make for a very shuddering clutch action though..... Can you post a pic or 3 to make the picture clearer for us from afar ? Thanks .
  15. Hello, if you use a vernier to measure the ring groove dimensions ( width ) , that will soon tell you if the ring lands have been machined to accept the spacers as PM5471 states above. This was a standard refurbishment procedure to use when the ring lands had worn past the tolerance - usually on the lower land of the ring groove and generally on the upper most compression ring groove. When the grooves were worn, the rings were prone to flutter and breakage, especially if the bore was tapered with wear. As for the ones I have seen, the lands also wear in a tapeed r profile , hence the need to square things up again. The spacers were normally quite thin and were one piece only, if you could post a few pics that would assist to identify what the components are. rgds