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About RussJagoau

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  • Birthday 08/27/1960

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  1. Its going to be tough to get 1000 rpm when you are cranking on the 6V starter so those compression figures are somewhat optimistic.!! It depends on the C.R of the engine but if its standard Compression ratio with a standard camshaft grind you should see approx 105 to 120 psig at operating temp with all the plugs removed and the throttle held wide open.... Its not so much the ultimate pressure but the variance between the cylinders to give you good cylinder balance and a smooth running engine.
  2. Some of the other Classics I have been involved with that suffered from vapor lock due to heat transfer from the exhaust manifolds, the owners actually extended the heat shield in both directions so that the radiant heat along the entire manifold length was deflected away from the fuel system. The extensions were rivetted to the original heat shield and supported at either end by a small stay. It made a significant difference also just having the deflector in place for the length of the exhaust manifold. These vehicles when running at parade speeds and idling in summer were prone to
  3. Not that Im aware of re the Material Specification for the brass manifold nuts . They are thicker in section / width than normal steel nuts. Both of my Chieftains have them fitted. UNF threads and were purchased through Ebay years ago. Originals still in place and been removed numerous times over the years. Also used on the exhaust flange gasket outlet at the manifold.
  4. You could try using whats known as a Dowty Seal as used on hydraulic system banjo fittings, these have a Nitrile insert on the ID of the washer and are perfect for this application. I use them numerous times on the By-pass filter on my 50's Pontiacs and classic bikes for sealing external oil lines at connections. The Nitrile insert is slightly thicker than the base OD washer and they can be re-used many times. And they are not expensive in the smaller sizes....
  5. On my 51 and the 53 the Idler arm was the major culprit , or to be more specific the threaded section of it that rotates approx 90 deg or more. Im referring to the component on the passenger side opposite side to the Steering box / Pitman arm where it attaches to the chassis rail. Typically these threaded pivots wear over time - just as the upper and lower control arm threaded pivots are also prone to do especially if the sealing rubber has failed. Whilst you are there you may want to check the adjustable socket ends on the tie rod as they are also adjustable for wear or the
  6. Hi Bob So on re-reading your text ( If I have interpreted it correctly ) your plan is to put the spacer/s on the new mounts to abutt to the the transmission ( not the cross member ?) thereby to space the new mounts backwards so that the threaded holes will align to the original bolt holes in the cross member. Given the condition that you found your original mounts in ( broken -as I did mine ) then most likely the transmission will have "sagged' under its weight as being supported by only 1 sound mount at the rear. Would be interesting exercise to measure your driveshaft angles bef
  7. Keith Lugging the engine under heavy load load with WOT will give you almost zero manifold vacuum, as there is minimal pressure differential between atmospheric and manifold vacuum due to the WOT. With the engine under heavy load, spark advance is not required or desired due to detonation / engine damage potential as indicated by pinging or ignition knock. Once the engine load is lessened and the throttle closed somewhat, then the vacuum advance can kick in again as the potential threat of Detonation is reduced. To much total advance is way more detrimental than not enoug
  8. Gents Just something to be aware of as a precaution, if you place the spacers on the rear engine mounts to the supportive crossmember, you will / may well change the angle of the transmission / driveshaft to the final drive. I would suggest that you measure the current angle of the transmission / driveshaft before you change the mounts and add the spacers. Then once you install the new components measure the angles again. On my chieftain the angles are now -6 deg on the driveshaft unijoint and -5.5 deg at the diff pinion flange, as the operating angles were un-equal before
  9. Hello I did my Mechanics apprenticeship on those old slants and the timing gear failure is a common problem. So i would suggest you pull the sump off and clean the oil pump pickup as well - reason being 9 times out of 10 the fibre gear remnants will block or partially block the oil pickup. Holden 6 cyl Red Motors used to suffer the same fate also. More than one suffered catastrophic failure due to the blocked oil pump pickup not long after the timing gear failure had been repaired as to replace the gear itself is only half the job done !!!.
  10. The steel fuel lines subject to the high temps were sheathed in rubber fuel line of approx 7/16ths I.D and then wrapped over in good old Silver cooking foil that was removed from the kitchen under the cover of darkness.........It worked a treat as its a great heat shield........ I have an old style AC Glass bowl sediment / filter at the carb inlet and the fuel never boiled in there after the discharge line from the fuel pump was insulated. Being in the northern state of Aus, heat transfer / operating temps are a constant challenge but i have it pretty well mastered now..
  11. Gents Here is a couple of pics that show the angle of the heat deflector shields. The red engine is a spare i picked up a few years back and its almost at 90 degs as you can see, but thats how i purchased it. All the other Pontiac cars / engines i have seen in this model run are all similar angles like the first pic of the engine in situ. In a warm climate it seems to work well, my '51 didnt have one when i first found it, and it suffered dramatically with fuel vaporisation at slows speeds and traffic lights in the summer months, ......It has one now as well as fuel line wrapping / shi
  12. Great job there with a great looking result, highly informative info over the duration. I'm looking to do a similar task next year on the '53 for exactly the same reason as the original headliner is showing signs of age. Appreciate the time you took to capture the story.
  13. Agree with Charles. You may wish to try the bench bleed method to confirm the master cylinder operation. If you are concerned as to the brake fluid making a mess, just use fresh water when you have it on the bench, this will confirm that the internal components are configured correctly and it will displace fluid again when you have it installed and full of brake fluid. Drain the reservoir of water and displace it with brake fluid when you have confirmed the master cylinder operation. It will soon displace when you bleed the rest of the system to the lines. its one of the advantage
  14. Re the bent blade, I have successfully used a digital protractor to set / adjust the altered fan blade pitches that were a result of making contact with an unwelcome long thick serpent like visitor in the fan cowling during the winter monthes. The readings are in half degree's so you alter the pitch and the balance to almost perfect conditions given time and perseverance. I also used these for adjustable blade pitch angles on gas compressors fin coolers in the offshore gas cooler fin fans and earth moving equipment with variable pitch cooler fans. These digital protractors /
  15. So heres hoping that the six bade fan and the efforts in your remedial works goes some way to cure the high temp issues as described in your original posts. Would be interested in to see the results that you witness. You may well have checked it but if not then the total ignition advance is another area that you might find some gains in especially if the mechanical advance springs have weakened over time or the advance mechanism is worn on the spring posts. One of my vehicles original distributors was gaining way too much advance early on in the rpm range due to the weakened springs and
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