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About RussJagoau

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/27/1960

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    Ex Auto mechanic, love old cars and specifically Pontiac Chieftains

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  1. Howdy I have a 51 and a 53 Pontiac and know the difficulty in locating the Spats. It took me quite a few years to get the reasonable sets for my vehicles , especially in Australia as I had to purchase from overseas. Best of luck with your search. If you need any pics or dimensions of the Spats, I can surely measure them for you. Rgds
  2. Sometimes if you get a balancer thats been in place for a lot of years, these require some force to be removed from the crank snout.... and these balancers can be pulled off with a large gear puller, with the jaw hooks set to inside the belt sheave sides on the pulley. That being the case make sure the pulley / sheave sides are protected from the steel jaw hooks. I find Aluminium Vee bar / angle is a good protection method that prevents damaging the belt runs when you wind on the puller draw bolt !
  3. The way that I have installed these seals in the past is as Summershandy states, ie the cork seal is the stationary element of the seal so it should be glued or cemented to the timing cover , the pressed steel shroud thats keyed to the crank is the rotating face , hence the contact face between the 2 elements is where one sealing surface is, the second one is the hub O.D on the harmonic balancer to the I.D of the cork inner face. You wouldnt want the cork face rotating against the timing cover ?? but between the inner face of the cork ring and the pressed steel shroud that rotates with the crank. Non hardening Permatex on these corks when cemented or glued to the timing cover seems to work well so far.
  4. So the crank pinion looks to be at TDC given the orientation of the key. But the cam gear looks to be 180 degrees out... ..a full turn of the crank should see the correct marks line up together. I would think given the current crank angle thats indicated then that engine is on the exhaust stroke of the No 1 cylinder.... the Inlets on these engines have a 224 degree duration whereas the exhaust is 230 degree and minimal overlap so they are quite simple to valve time... To check that with the head on is quite simple, remove the plugs and install a piece of tissue into the #1 plug hole. Rotate the engine in the normal CW direction, if the tissue is drawn in its intake , conversely if its blown out its compression. this combined with the position of the rotor in the distributor should be a giveaway as to the what stroke in the cycle that the cylinder is on. As the engine has been running ok, then its also a simple matter of re-placing the chain with the same number of link s / pins of the timing chain from the timing marks used. You dont have to use the factory timing marks, as long as the phasing of the cam to the crank goes back in exactly the same position that you removed it. So if the car was a runner prior, replace the chain and ensure the timing marks are in exactly the same location before you pulled the chain.....
  5. I have seen in some cases the clutch disc is installed backwards ( ie long side of the splined disc hub to the flywheel side as opposed to short side to the flywheel side ) this then pushed the pressure plate back towards the gearbox front and prevent the clutch from operating. Generally when the engine is started the long splined hub will clash with the spigot / pilot bearing and the resulting noise is quite obvious. Plus the clutch will not disengage. Maybe this is the reason for the spacers being installed ? Clutch assy.pdf
  6. Hi 46 Poncho This may help you. Im north of Brisbane and have a few other pics and dimensions if that's of any help and a service manual that this pic came from. Lets know how you get on. Clutch assy.pdf
  7. Hi All, Just enquiring if any of the members have ever balanced the 6 cylinder Side Valve engine during a rebuild ? My 51 has a critical speed vibration in it at about 2500 rpm, both loaded and under no-load. Its has good compression across all the cylinders and the Leak down test is less than 30% on all the pots, so the cylinder balance should be fine. It runs sweet but has a vibration at one particular rev range..... The harmonic balancer appears to be in good condition as by visual inspection there is no distortion evident and the timing marks line up with a degree wheel so no slippage there on the outher pulley from the hub. Borescope inspection is all normal in each cylinder so ..... I have the equipement to balance the piston / rod assemblies but will need to have the crank, flywheel, pressure plate and harmonic balancer dynamically balanced if its time to look inside. Any experiences from other engine builders on these 50's engines ? Thanks
  8. Thanks - pls let us know what you find and even a pic or two of the treasures hidden away in there
  9. Howdy - yes you can drop the oil pan from the block with the engine in situ, as I have done on previous occasions. You may want to try draining the oil from the pan first then pour a ltr of diesel down the oil filler and see what comes out of the oil pan drain hole. Just be aware that early Pontiacs have the oil cleaner inside the oil pan on the intake to the oil pump so dont start the engine to circulate the "flushing oil"otherwise you may well stir up and deposit a heap of unwanted debris in the oil cleaner. For what its worth for an oil pan gasket and a few hours labor, its good insurance to pull the oil pan and the oil cleaner and clean out the 50 odd years of accumulated gunge, as from what I have seen most of these era vehicles havent used detergent oils and the gunge build up can be extensive.
  10. Hi Steve, Not having both model throwout forks on front of me but having the part listing shows there is a different part number for your 1940 ( 501868) vs 508923 that's listed for the 1946-53 models. Crankshaft / gearbox Centreline is centreline however and it seems unusual that as you have used the original 40 model bellhousing and associated components it should line up to the crankshaft ,/ gearbox main drive shaft centreline. There is a degree of axial float of the throwout bearing on the fork to allow for alignment and movement as the fork moves though its arc when the pedal is depressed , but obviously there must be a problem to cause the mis-alignment you quote. One thing I would suggest you check is the concentricity of the bellhousing counterbore , when using a mandrel fitted to the Spigot bush / bearing and a dial indicator mounted to the mandrel shaft, I have seen these bellhousings to be "eccentric" rather than concentric when checked with a dial indicator, to the extent the bellhousing had to be re-aligned and dowelled into the block to hold its position. But that amount was approx. 0.200" not 0.375 as you are seeing. It did make for a very shuddering clutch action though..... Can you post a pic or 3 to make the picture clearer for us from afar ? Thanks .
  11. Hello, if you use a vernier to measure the ring groove dimensions ( width ) , that will soon tell you if the ring lands have been machined to accept the spacers as PM5471 states above. This was a standard refurbishment procedure to use when the ring lands had worn past the tolerance - usually on the lower land of the ring groove and generally on the upper most compression ring groove. When the grooves were worn, the rings were prone to flutter and breakage, especially if the bore was tapered with wear. As for the ones I have seen, the lands also wear in a tapeed r profile , hence the need to square things up again. The spacers were normally quite thin and were one piece only, if you could post a few pics that would assist to identify what the components are. rgds
  12. Hi Poncho 48, im from QLD and can help with your queries, if you send me a private message with your email address I can send you the relevant section of the engine service manual. rgds
  13. Thanks 51pontiac for your kind words. Like most re-paints its not perfect however it's the original color which I think is important, to me originality is the main purpose of restoring these old beauties, but each to their own. Of the 50,s era Pontiacs in Aus, the majority I have seen are 6 cylinder power plants, even though the 8 cylinder far outsold the 6 in the U.S. from what I know. One of the biggest challenges that we are faced with down here is sourcing original parts with the tyranny of distance, it can be an expensive pastime, but one I consider to be worth the effort and expense. thanks
  14. Fitz, it's not reversed, it's the correct way for us down under, since these pics were posted I have collected a few more pieces such as full wheel trims, a original front bumper over rider kit and various other original pieces including a chieftain 6V push button radio that's been reconditioned. At bit more work to be done yet to finish it and a re- set of the rear springs as one side has sagged slightly from sitting idle for many years. When i pull the rear leafs for the re- set will go thru the rear axle and drive line as one uni-joint has been installed back to front, so will rectify that. will also check the drive line angles as i suspect the centre lines are not so parallel based on initial alignment checks. Once I'm back home full time will be able to get into the details a bit more and finish the outside and the mechanicals as she needs a good complete tune including a leak down test, adjust the valve lash and check the ignition advance curve as I suspect it's slightly retarded at highway speeds. Still she is on the road again which is a milestone in itself. The amount of people who comment about it and have taken pictures of the vehicle never ceases to amaze me, it makes one proud to own a classic piece of motoring history and be so very fortunate to be able to drive it as opposed to simply look at pictures of these beauties....
  15. Hello, good advice from carbking about trying to start an engine that has been slumbering for so long.... a whole bunch of things you should ideally look at but as a minimum pull the plugs and get some oil into the cylinder bores and turn it over by hand if possible before doing much of anything else.....'also look to get some oil onto the valve stems / guides if you can to prevent a dry start..... D rop the engine oil and put a fresh charge in and crank it without the plugs to get the oil circulating before you try to fire it up....... Re the carb being frozen on the butterflies - these usually stick between the shaft and the throttle body but it could be a number of places. I have found a 50 /50 mix of Auto trans fluid / diesel works well for applications like this, but it may take a while to free it off. Immerse the throttle body in the penetrating solution for a week or so and then give the throttle body a gentle tap on the sides whilst working the throttle shaft to try and break the bond. These carbs are pretty robust but be patient..... I have brought some back from the dead that had been sitting for years with no protection from the elements and with some TLC they are recoverable. Lift the air horn on the carb and make sure its all clean inside and splash some WD - 40 around in there to lube things up a bit ..... best of luck .