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About RussJagoau

  • Birthday 08/27/1960

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  1. Nice Car John, and one that you can be proud of from your efforts. The 53 is the pick of the shapes i think from that era and they do drive well. Great job !
  2. No probs - if you get the time when you get the new guide and fabricate the drift - pls post a few pics as would be interested to see what it looks like and how it performed. Ive tried numerous combinations over the years and some work better in some applications than others. In cast blocks like you have there, removal is generally straightforward. In alloy heads where steel / bronze guides are fitted, when the guide is being taken out, it can damage the head and make the counterbore loose even when the head is heated in the oven to assist with the removal and installation process. Good luck !
  3. I have replaced guides in these engines numerous times. One method i successfuly used ( without knowing which tools / drifts you have looked at) is to measure the Guide ID and OD and have a tool made on a lathe that has a step shoulder on the tool. I have done this for numerous guides that were an interference fit in various heads or blocks that Ive restored over the years. Just ensure the tool ID is long enough to be the length of the guide so it acts a a good pilot whilst you are removing the guides. Any machine shop should be able to make this for you at a reasonable cost. I have used standard Grade 8 engine bolts with the nut screwed on to sometimes start the removal of the guides if they were tight as I didnt want to damage the shouldered tools that I manufactured. Some of the guides removed took a lot of pounding to start the removal process so only use hi-grade bolts that will withstand the impacts. If the protruding section of the guide is broken - i would suggest you square that off before commencing the removal process to have a uniform surface area to act upon when you are removing the guide. If not you can skew the guide sideways somewhat as well making life more difficult than it needs to be. For what its worth many manufacturers make guide removal tools for British motorcycles - to which i have a BSA engine guide tool that comes very close to the original dimensions of Pontiac guides. However its a selective fit that you can only try at the time before you purchase or manufacture the tool. Hope this helps
  4. Ok so we are on the same page then regards the octane selector tab . Are you familiar with checking the static ignition timing with the engine stopped and using a test light ? Thats as good a starting point as any for ignition timing checking. And i found both methods accurate when compared to one another ie static vs dynamic checking. The beauty of using a strobe timing light is that you can verify not only ignition timing at idle but more importantly the amount of total advance. In my opinion total advance is more critical for engine performance and economy than initial timing at idle hence i tend to tune engines on the total advance number rather than at idle. Not so much with these old girls with low compression ratios but later model engines running greater than 8.5:1 Compression ratios then are prone to detonation with resultant damage incurred if there is too much advance dialed in. On the Pontiacs I have, i found to have total advance of 34 deg BTDC required initial timing of approx 7deg BTDC whereas the manual for memory quotes 3 deg ? obviously there may well be some cam drive / distributor drive slack in there that may account for this as well.
  5. Does your distributor have the Octane selector tab fitted as per this picture - ( the tab thats shown sitting up against the block and is held in place by the distributor base ?) Be interested to see what you refer to as the tab at the distributor cap as Im assuming we are talking about the same part ??
  6. Howdy - do you have a timing light where you can check the current ignition timing after you cranked it clockwise ? Or even if you do a static check with a test light to see where the ignition is occurring related to BTDC. It would be interesting to see where its currently timed at as compared to before when the engine was suffering the hiccup before. Some of the old engines that have a significant of timing chain wear require more advance due to the lag in the valve timing as the chain stretches and of course then retards the ignition. 1/8th of a turn is a significant amount to rotate the distributor in relation to static ignition timing and then of course total advance. Even though these engines are low compression, too much advance is not good. By the sounds of it, it may have been running with the spark timing well retarded before High HT Plug lead resistance can also cause a hiccup off idle as well as the spark will be extinguished as the load comes on the engine to move off from standstill. Be interested in what you find as to the current / previous settings. More importantly its good that you have cured the hiccup
  7. The Internal seals on the Hardy Spicer u joint cups are the modern elastomer type . I have fitted them to both my 51 and the 53 that my Dad had and so far its all good. Not that they do a lot of miles nowadays but every time i put the grease gun to it they dont take a lot of grease to refill the cup, and there is no evidence of grease fling out around the transmission tunnel or diff floor pan area. So far so good, they should outlast this current owner
  8. Dave - So the front u-joint is different on my '51 as it has 4 round cups that are more typical of later model U-joints as compared to the flat face mounted cup type in the rear. Looking at Ebay here it seems that both front and rear for a '37 are the same. I had to go with Hardy Spicer here as that was the only supplier available locally that could supply that style of flat faced cup joint. To import from your part of the world is worth more than the component is nowadays...
  9. Nice job ! Straight 8 - the rear uni joint with the grease nipple that will fit is Hardy Spicer 114-2111 - it has the correct flat flanged cups for mounting on the Pontiac pinion flange. Hope that helps.
  10. So I have used a 12V oil suction pump that has a small diameter suction line that will easily enter the housing fill plug. I've used these to empty crankcases in boats and transmissions that the drain plug when opened will only create a huge mess to clean up. These pumps are cheap and available on Ebay and will pull the heavy weight oil out in short order. Also - If you are changing the pinion seal then jack the vehicle up at the rear and support under the rear axle then remove the rear uni joint base as you call it and the pinon seal, , a lot of the oil will then drain through the pinion shaft bearings and you wont have to pump much out if utilising the vacuum pump method. Thats how i changed my final drive oils in my old Chieftains......
  11. Its going to be tough to get 1000 rpm when you are cranking on the 6V starter so those compression figures are somewhat optimistic.!! It depends on the C.R of the engine but if its standard Compression ratio with a standard camshaft grind you should see approx 105 to 120 psig at operating temp with all the plugs removed and the throttle held wide open.... Its not so much the ultimate pressure but the variance between the cylinders to give you good cylinder balance and a smooth running engine.
  12. Some of the other Classics I have been involved with that suffered from vapor lock due to heat transfer from the exhaust manifolds, the owners actually extended the heat shield in both directions so that the radiant heat along the entire manifold length was deflected away from the fuel system. The extensions were rivetted to the original heat shield and supported at either end by a small stay. It made a significant difference also just having the deflector in place for the length of the exhaust manifold. These vehicles when running at parade speeds and idling in summer were prone to vapor lock once the temps started to rise in the warmer monthes with the lower flash point fuels that are sold today. Years ago it never seemed to be the issue, maybe the lower flash point fuels that are sold today ? I know if i dont start the vehicle for approx 10 days then i have to utilise the 6V electric primer pump to fill the carb bowl again. Cheers
  13. Not that Im aware of re the Material Specification for the brass manifold nuts . They are thicker in section / width than normal steel nuts. Both of my Chieftains have them fitted. UNF threads and were purchased through Ebay years ago. Originals still in place and been removed numerous times over the years. Also used on the exhaust flange gasket outlet at the manifold.
  14. You could try using whats known as a Dowty Seal as used on hydraulic system banjo fittings, these have a Nitrile insert on the ID of the washer and are perfect for this application. I use them numerous times on the By-pass filter on my 50's Pontiacs and classic bikes for sealing external oil lines at connections. The Nitrile insert is slightly thicker than the base OD washer and they can be re-used many times. And they are not expensive in the smaller sizes....
  15. On my 51 and the 53 the Idler arm was the major culprit , or to be more specific the threaded section of it that rotates approx 90 deg or more. Im referring to the component on the passenger side opposite side to the Steering box / Pitman arm where it attaches to the chassis rail. Typically these threaded pivots wear over time - just as the upper and lower control arm threaded pivots are also prone to do especially if the sealing rubber has failed. Whilst you are there you may want to check the adjustable socket ends on the tie rod as they are also adjustable for wear or the spring tension can wane over time leading to excess movement. Even though the steering box and pitman may be in fine order with minimal slop , a lot of rotational movement from the box/ arm can be lost in the linkages on these pivot points if they are worn or requiring adjustment. Particulary on vehicles that have been driven a lot on country roads that are then subject to dirt ingress over the years. The lubricant combined with the dirt and dust turns to valve grind paste and gradually wears it away. Tie rod ends are similar thieves for loss of movement from the input from the steering wheel to the king pins... If you leave the car on the deck, then have an assistant move the steering wheel, it will be soon obvious where the worn components are if you observe the linkage.
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