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1971 Riviera horn inop


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Hello!

I have a '71 riviera purchased summer of last year. The horn did not work on it. I was going to replace the steering wheel anyways with a GM classic 3 spoke one. The steering wheel has since been replaced but no horn, a clicking noise though when the button is pushed. Per some reading I suspected the relay. Replaced that and still no horn but the awful key buzzer. There is a ground coming off the wires to the relay, although not really corroded I sanded all the contact surfaces. Still no horn. Could the horns themselves be bad or could there be a ground lurking somewhere that needs attention?

 

Thanks! :)

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Take a jumper wire, hook it to the +, positive post, of the battery & touch the other end to the wire on both horns after you remove the wires to each one. IF the horns work now the problem is further back in the system. Fast & easy & really no $$$ spent. Have to start somewhere.

 

Tom T.

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  If you hear the relay clicking that indicates the circuit between the relay and the steering wheel is good....but not necessarily that the points in the relay are transferring current. Disconnect the wires from the horns and test to see if you have voltage at the wires when the horn pad is depressed...or, do as Tom says and put battery voltage dirctly to each horn.

  If the battery direct wire snaps a spark when connecting to the horn, that indicates that the horn contacts are closed and the horn has a good ground. If the horn does not sound when connected directly to the battery, while the horn is still connected, give the horn a swift whack or two with a rubber mallet. If that causes the horn to sound, or not, dont leave the wire connected for long. The horns are designed for intermittent, not constant, operation and will overheat the coil if they operate for too long.

  If the battery direct wire does not throw a spark when connecting, that indicates either the contact points in the horn are not closed, or the horn is not properly grounded, or both. Make sure the horn mounting is clean and tight, and while connected to battery voltage, give the horn a swift whack with a rubber mallet again.

  Believe it or not, your chances are about 50/50 that the horn will sound. Have fun whacking!

Tom Mooney

Edited by 1965rivgs (see edit history)
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Thank you so much guys and happy Easter!

 

Per the wire test there was no spark and the horn did not sound. Whacked the horns (was fun, hehehe) and still nothing. I tried a voltage meter to see if there was at least power going to the horns. When I pressed the button the needle jumped as it should.

 

So does the horn have a ground inside of it or is where it attaches to the support it's ground?

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16 hours ago, Raggedy Ann Riviera said:

Thank you so much guys and happy Easter!

 

Per the wire test there was no spark and the horn did not sound. Whacked the horns (was fun, hehehe) and still nothing. I tried a voltage meter to see if there was at least power going to the horns. When I pressed the button the needle jumped as it should.

 

So does the horn have a ground inside of it or is where it attaches to the support it's ground?

  Sorry to hear the whack attack method didnt work out for you. Never hurts to try again, you have nothing to lose!

  The horns are grounded through their mounting. Clean, tight and bright!

Tom

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Good morning!

    I sanded the metal to bare where the horns attached to the bracket on both surfaces and still nothing. Whacked ‘em a couple more times and still nothing :(

 

   The car was sitting in a barn for over 25 years before I got it. Is it possible the inside is so corroded it will no longer function?

 

   They’re obviously riveted together. If they’re junk wouldn’t mind cracking one open just to see the guts! :D

 

    

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6 minutes ago, Raggedy Ann Riviera said:

Good morning!

    I sanded the metal to bare where the horns attached to the bracket on both surfaces and still nothing. Whacked ‘em a couple more times and still nothing :(

 

   The car was sitting in a barn for over 25 years before I got it. Is it possible the inside is so corroded it will no longer function?

 

   They’re obviously riveted together. If they’re junk wouldn’t mind cracking one open just to see the guts! :D

 

    

Absolutely,  over the years I have replaced horns that no longer functioned, and all have been on long term storage cars 

 

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Believe it or not there are horn repair kits. The rivets can be drilled out. I did a tech article in the Riview on rebuilding them a few years back. Sometimes the coil burns out, contacts go bad, or they get very oxidized inside. In most cases replacement is best (either new or confirmed good used), easiest, and least expensive option. 

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Hello --there is one more thing you can try,

on the horn  you will find  a small adjustment screw bolt, they are not hexican head but 

like a torx head,  just use ordinary pliars  and  turn it in  clockwise about one full turn,

then tap horn couple of times,  then try and see if it goes.---a little more turn ,and  try again

its worked for me over  the years.     see torx  screw photo just to the right of center bolt.

001.JPG

Edited by Wayne R
ad photo. (see edit history)
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