48 Lin. Removing Rear Drums.?

[Cokekid]

I am trying to replace my rear brake cylinders and to do this I understand you need a Hub Puller. The K R Wilson seems to be the choice of everyone but when I phoned Winfield Tools Works and talked to them about shipping the the price started at $150,00 plus shipping $54.65 = $204.65 US. After I do the conversion to Cdn. Dollars',   It works out to be $256.75 Cdn.

 

By any chance is there another puller I can possible use.?

 

Gerry

[19tom40]

You cannot use the puller that attaches to the lug studs, they tend to distort the drum and only break the hub loose some of the time. The replica hub pullers show up on E-bay occasionally.

 

I have used the knock off hub puller to remove the hubs and it does work more often than the puller that connect to the studs. The way you use it is to remove the nut holding the hub on, jack up the opposite wheel, hand tighten the knocker on the axle and then strike it soundly with a 5lb hammer. The wheel with the knocker should be on the ground and you have to move the car off of the hub with the hammer.

 

Here is where you can buy one:

https://www.brattons.com/knock-off-wheel-puller.html

 

Here is another style puller that may work for you

https://www.brattons.com/recessed-hub-ring-rear-wheel-hub-puller.html

 

I would talk with the owner at Brattons to see if it will work for you.

 

Another choice is to contact the Early Ford V-8 Club Regional Group near you and see if someone there can help you. Your car is one of the makes that the Early Ford V-8 Club supports and you may want to join and receive the help that a local organization can give you.

Southern Ontario (RG# 149)

6 Westwood Lane, Richmond Hill, Ontario Canada L4C-6X9

Contact: Vern Kipp
EM: jwaterman@sympatico.ca
PH: 416-266-1628

 

While you have the hub off, inspect the bottom of the axle housing for wear and pits. If you see signs of wear or pits, you will have to have sleeves pressed on the housings to give you a good bearing surface. Let me know if you need them and I will give you the source for the best ones. If your roller bearings do not have pits or show signs of wear, re-use them, good replacements are hard to find these days. Use Sta-Lube SL3131 wheel bearing grease to lube the bearings. It is the correct consistency to protect the bearings. I use it for the front bearings also.

 

When you are ready to replace the hub, clean all grease from the axle taper and the hub mating surface, make sure that the key is in good condition and seated in the axle the same way as you took it out, install the hub and tighten the nut to 150ftlbs and then tighten to the next slot for the cotter key.

 

Let us know how you make out.

Edited February 17, 2021 by 19tom40
additional instructions (see edit history)

[Cokekid]

Tom,

 

I am going to phone Brattons tomorrow to discuss if any of these tools will work for me.

 

Let you know what they say.

 

Gerry 

[40ZephSedan]

Tough to get off if torqued properly, so they don't come lose and spin off the key/ruin bearing/ruin axle. I got a drum off once with a 3-jaw puller without getting killed by any flying parts & without damaging the end of the axle nor groove- would not recommend. Needs a big hammer hit. If keeping the car would recommend a correct hub puller.  I am very happy now with my Vintage Precision Tools puller also, (good customer service), because it spreads the thrust across all the threads, just like the orig axle design. Was $165 (Tool/packaging/tax/shipping).

[19tom40]

I don't think that I want to be in the same room when you use the gear puller set up to remove a drum. When that hose clamp breaks you have a very dangerous object flying around your shop.

 

Your Vintage Precision Tool puller looks like a quality puller, but it doesn't solve the exchange price problem.

 

You are correct about having your own puller if you intend to keep the car. The bearings should be re-packed every 5,000 miles. I would not skimp on this because you need to inspect for wear regularly. Ford recommended twice a year, but the grease available then is not as good as the grease we have today. A worn axle housing will allow the axle to flex at the end and eventually break.

[JFranklin]

If you know anybody in a model A Ford club you could see if the puller for a model A will work on your hub. 

 

My wife thinks I'm reckless and with that said I would use the 3 leg puller as shown. I always tell her if anything goes wrong at least I won't have to do taxes anymore!

[Cokekid]

Tom

 

I phoned Brattons  and they are not answering. I sent them a email asking about their puller. I am waiting for a reply.

 

Seeing you pointed out that the puller maybe used more often I may just have to bite the bullet and pay the price for one of them

 

40ZephSedan.

 The puller you showed from Vintage Precision looks great but as Tom said the exchange rate is still the problem.

 

I am not to sure I would be brave enough to use the your setup as I may end up damaging the axel.

 

JFranklin

 

I don't know anyone in the Ford A club

[JFranklin]

Don't use the knock-off puller, you need proper skill or it will cause damage to the axle. The other is the one to get.

[Cokekid]

I am not willing to take a chance to try various pullers, which could possibly cause me further problem. So I am going to just go ahead and buy the Hub Puller from Vintage Precision.

 

Gerry  

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

Loosen the nut, put in reverse and sort of pop the clutch ...I use that cone puller

with much success, remember to retorque 100 or so .....

[Cokekid]

Mssr. Bwatoe

 

Received the Hub Puller and I am going to give it a try tomorrow.

[19tom40]

You should try to keep the car in an unrestored condition. There are so few originals left and it is nice to see how the factory did things. My Lincoln is a 44,000+ mile unrestored car and it has lots of warts, but I have learned to live with them, in order to preserve as much as I can of the original car.

 

Last summer, I saw a video on Auto Geek on how to bring back the shine and color on old paint. I tried it and now my car looks better than ever. I can see the metallic in the dark blue and the color is much closer to the original. The water spots that I thought would be with me forever are not noticeable any more. I just hope that I can keep it looking this way.

 

 

 

[Cokekid]

Tom,

 

I agree to try and keep the car as original as possible but some parts just need to be replace. Like my rear break shoes.

 

I took the Hub puller out to the garage to use it to remove the rear drums.  I followed the directions and nothing is happening. 

 

Here is a photo of the puller with the Thurst Bolt screwed in as far as it will go.

  Am I doing something wrong.?

 

Gerry

[Cokekid]

Gave it another try and was able to remove one drum. I am guessing there wasn't 125 psi applied. The other side is not willing to come off, so  I applied pressure as much as I could then sprayed the drum with BLAST OFF and will leave it until tomorrow.  

[38ShortopConv.]

You may have to back off the shoes more

[Cokekid]

38ShortopConv

I was going to do this.  I was wondering if I could use a air gun.? As it's not easy to hold one wrench while turning the other wrench.

[19tom40]

I meant to post my last post in a reply to Detroitsoul and somehow it ended up here. I hope that he reads it.

 

Before using an air gun, I would contact the manufacturer of the puller. I would also ask if a hammer blow to the thrust bolt will damage the puller or the axle.

 

I would check to make sure that the shoes are not rubbing on the drum and then try the puller again. Penetrating oil seldom has an effect on removing the drum, because it is difficult to reach the surfaces where the drum is being held.  The taper on the axle and the taper inside the hub is where the holding force is.

[38ShortopConv.]

Cokekid,  Not sure what you mean about using 2 wrenches at once. Anyway  you should back off the brake shoe adjustments before you fit  puller.  Jack opposite wheel just clear of ground. I usually leave the wheel on the hub I am removing and resting on ground.  Remove axle nut,  tighten puller 60 plus ft./ lbs.  strike puller nut briskly several  times  with small heavy hammer. When hub releases  tighten puller nut again, use hammer if still  tight. Jack wheel off ground to fully remove.  Good luck. Roy

Edited March 10, 2021 by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

[Cokekid]

38ShortopConv

 

If you go back and look at a posting of the instructions they send with the Puller you we see at the bottom it says to use two use two 1 1/8" wrenches.

 

I phoned the company and was talking to Casey, who is now running the company and he gave me these tips

 

1) Take a 3 to 5 lb hammer and hit the hub hard while turning the drum, But don't hit the grove area.

2  Spray the hub area with any loosing solvent.

3) Heat the Hub up and let it cool down for about 1 hour.

4) Put the tool back on and then hit the Thrust bolt a couple of times.

 

I am going to do this tomorrow. 

 

Let you know what happens.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[38ShortopConv.]

My puller does not have thrust nut or thrust plate nut, not fancy enough.  Dont know how you would get penetrating oil on Morse taper. Careful heating could help. Over an out.

[Cokekid]

Went out to the garage this morning to see if I could remove the drum after following all the tips I was given. Took the hammer and started to hit the top of the drum as I was turning it. After about ten hits I noticed the drum a moved forward and after a few more hits the drum came off.

 

Appreciated all the tips from the forum members who helped me getting the drums off.

 

Gerry

[19tom40]

Good work.

[lattrm]

Just ran across this topic and know it's old but I did find an inexpensive and handy solution. I bought a tie rod end puller from Harbor Freight for $12 and trimmed the claw ends a bit to fit in the groove on the hub. It worked great.