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40ZephSedan

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Everything posted by 40ZephSedan

  1. The 2 outer shoe springs have more than enough strength to overcome the small spring inside the cylinder and push the pistons back toward the center as far as they need to go. As Larry said, glued linings may bulge out a little if too much adhesive is used, or if the lining bows out a little before the adhesive sets. Can you rough up the linings and rub on some yellow chalk (or an indicator that won't affect the friction) and then spin with drum on to see where your high spot is rubbing on the lining? I have also had problem before with adjusters that were initially very rusted, have to use a flat file to clean out the grooves in both ends of the adjuster so the shoes can fully retract at the bottom. Or possibly crud in the inside of the female adjuster half, causing the male end of the adjuster to bottom out in the threads against the crud before it is fully closed/retracted. Even if the drum is tight, if you can spin it on new linings, you probably are not very far off. You don't need much more clearance, maybe only a few thousandths more. When I look at your 1st pic, it appears there is a bigger gap than mine where the two shoes meet at the top stud. Might check to see if any reason why the 2 shoes are not closing tight against the top stud. Just don't want shoes dragging much when you first drive; only takes a short distance to overheat the linings, and smoke/glaze them, because it ruins them & lose a lot of stopping power. Also, is it possible the blue shoes are a matched pair and should both be used on the same side, as the front and back shoes? Paul
  2. It looks like this is the drivers-side front, so the shorter length lining in the front appears correct. How bad is it dragging, will it turn by hand at all? You may have already tried; but sometimes after all drums in place, will need to apply good brake pedal pressure to center the whole brake shoe assembly inside the drum, allowing enough clearance to allow the drum to turn until it polishes up more to spin more free. Paul
  3. Gerry, I have never seen the metal disk in any old or new brake cylinders I have worked on. I have seen the larger diameter springs on some newer model cars, but not sure why the design is different or what the advantage is verses the old style springs. A local brake or repair shop, or the supplier that sold you the brake kit might have insight. Regarding the rest the assembly, being overly cautious-since the photo doesn't show all the new parts in the rebuild kit, your new kit does include new 2202 rubber seals in front of new 2198 metal pistons, correct? Paul
  4. Gerry, since they are compressible, they are not really re-usable, so you may want to pick up a couple extra ones in case a drum has to come off again. They start off 1/8" thick, but after torqued & compressed they almost look like a metal washer; your old one may still be in your hub that will need to be cleaned out. Cheers to you, making a lot of good progress on many items! Paul
  5. Tough to get off if torqued properly, so they don't come lose and spin off the key/ruin bearing/ruin axle. I got a drum off once with a 3-jaw puller without getting killed by any flying parts & without damaging the end of the axle nor groove- would not recommend. Needs a big hammer hit. If keeping the car would recommend a correct hub puller. I am very happy now with my Vintage Precision Tools puller also, (good customer service), because it spreads the thrust across all the threads, just like the orig axle design. Was $165 (Tool/packaging/tax/shipping).
  6. I don't have a manual for 48, and can not tell for sure from the photo but I think the spring insulators on 40's were also used in 48. May want to stay with them for the quieter ride with the spring and frame separated by rubber rather than welded/bolted/riveted metal to metal. Don't shave new insulators if go in tight, want them tight; press up in place slowly with hydraulic bottle jack. Here is the 1940 setup. Good Luck- Paul
  7. John, could the bulb mount in the hole you show in the blue dash paint? It appears the bottom chrome bar on the radio grill extends out far enough from the blue dash metal to fit the bulb underneath the chrome, and then the light might shine out the gaps in that area or possibly out a light hole out the left side of the bottom bar of the radio grill corner piece? Paul
  8. Scott has hydraulic in 41 too. But I don't have a pic of a 41 brake. This is a pic of an adjuster (on mech & hyd both). He keeps saying "I don't know what you mean; How do you back off the adjuster?; Its not obvious; What are adjusters? So just trying to help him out providing a visual of what the adjuster looks like that he needs to find and back off.
  9. Since this is a beauty, and not just a driver, you might consider buying the Authenticity Manual off one of the website vendors. That manual is nowhere complete, but it is still packed with a lot of useful info which we can not list all for you here in short replies. Love the color, my Dad originally had a maroon 1941 coupe with fold down seats in 1950's, and unfortunately sold it after I was born, because it was getting tougher with little room to throw the 3 kids behind the front seat!! Figure they had about 80-100 Zephyrs coming down the line every day, and pulled about 4/day off to the side to turn them into a Continental! (lower and stretched hood, polish the heads, shorter fenders, .....) So some things you can guess how they might be painted. Whatever installed before the paint shop came with body color paint, then engine, tranny,.... added. Underside did not get covered with body color paint, just hit-miss undercoating mostly down the centers. Paint shop painted what they could reach from the side, like the outside of the frame members were painted body color inside the fendors, but then it was just a matter of how much body color over-spray got on the rest of the underneath after that.
  10. Can anyone help with photos/explanations how the rear gas line routes over to the tank connection, as originally installed from the factory? 50 years ago my dad and I replaced the rusty gas line with copper, and just clamped on a rubber flex hose near the tank. Now that I have cleaned things up and installed new mounts and frame insulators, would like to install the gas line over to the tank with proper rigid tubing/hose, hardware, routing location, etc., to match the original install as close as possible. Is it rigid tubing all the way to the tank connection, with no rubber involved? What connection hardware is used going into the tank- single flared fitting like brake lines- I assume? I imagine the rigid line goes thru the two holes in the brace above the rubber axle bumper (routed separate from the wiring)? From there does it route 1)over to the tank mounted on the front side of the frame cross member using clamp and bolt hole shown in photo? Or 2) does tubing continue on into the center of the frame cross member and make the 90 degree turn over to the tank inside the cross member? Or 3) do you route tubing all the way thru to the back side of the cross member and mount the tubing to the back side of the cross member over to the tank? I think maybe 3), because then clear of any moving spring/axle parts as they bounce up and down? Any photos or help appreciated! Thx, Paul
  11. Scott, Picture may help make adjuster more obvious. Parts Manual is no help for drawings, but the Chassis and Parts manual does have many helpful diagrams, can find on ebay. Or you can download the 2020 Parts price book on Boos-Herrel web site and Chris has many good diagrams there as well. Not sure if this pic is front brake or not, may be a rear. But for illustration, try to find the adjusting hole in the back of the brake backing plate behind the star wheel adjuster and using a brake adjusting tool- turn the adjuster so it becomes shorter, the the end of the brake shoes come closer together and make a smaller diameter- don't grab the drum so tight. I am a '40 owner so can not be sure, but pay attention that the screw inside the adjuster may be left-hand thread so when you are turning the adjuster one tooth at a time by prying thru the back hole, you may be tightening instead of loosening. Keep us informed how you do. Paul
  12. Hi Phil, Many fabrics were never reproduced and no longer available, so often can only pick something close. With LeBaron out of business, two other I am aware of: 1) SMS Fabrics in Canby, Oregon; never used them, may in future, know one owner with 39 sedan satisfied with them. 2) After Jim Roll passing and a great reputation esp for Continentals, his son Jan was reupholstering V12 Lincolns last I heard- in New Philadelphia OH; can ask if he will sell just the material separate, without doing install? Good Luck, Paul
  13. The V12 Engine Rebuild Manual cautions to assure all stamped rod and cap numbers 1-12 are assembled facing the front of the engine. If not, it will cause a clatter or loud racket, depending upon how many are backward. You are describing this as a knock, so this may not be the problem, but a long-shot possible cause.
  14. Ray at Classic Car Transport in Southington CT advertises in TWOTZ, has also parted out many many LZ's and excellent LZ parts source, at Hershey ea year, a class act, very responsive. Very pleased with a dozens of the parts from him, he probably has rims you need, he has almost everything .
  15. Another item you may have already considered,, If you have a two-speed Columbia, highway RPM's might not be a problem. but if no overdrive- you may want to think twice about a smaller circumference tire revving more on the highway. Phil Knapp summarized rim sizes well in his 8/30/2010 thread on 1940's vs 1941's, in addition to what Keith mentions. 1939/1940 = 16x4, 1941=16x5, and 1942 on were 15x5. Fender skirts have pretty tight clearance as well- anyone with experience changing from 16x4 to the wider 16x5 or 15x5 rims know if there are problems with the wider tires rubbing on the 1939 and 1940 fender skirts?
  16. You got that rear drive-train back together fast, evidently its running well! Like the pics!
  17. I bought from Alan Whelihan at a parts swap - very nice; never checked Chris, he may have too. I think polished SS, but looks like chrome. Two different types depending on year. Need P/N or know if yours have the shorter or longer square shaft. Paul
  18. You are always expanding our horizons Jeff!! Now I know who Eddie Peabody is, the banjo king. But I bet Eddie didn't ever own both a H-V12 and a VW MicroBus, even more rare with your top narrow windows.
  19. The manual call for a Zephyr "H" part number, so it must be different than the Ford part number somehow. For a 1939 Zephyr (96H) it lists Fuel Tank # H-9002-A.
  20. By "I'd", are you looking for past owners and history? Would have to see if Dave Cole's past tracking charts might be available. 16H is a 1941. 57 designates the Lincoln-Continantal Coupe. And it is the 785th Continental Coupe made in 1941 out of ????? Not many made, probably toward the end of 1941. The actual VIN number used is the engine number stamped on the top of the frame between the driver front wheel and the exhaust manifold. Hope that is a quick help if you are looking to make a quick buying decision.
  21. If Cabr is similar to Sedans, is a small plate staked to inside of upholstery backing board holding the spring clip to the backing board. Can slip 2 pieces of chipboard (cereal box) in the crack between the door upholstery and the door metal to protect both. Put small putty knife between the 2 pieces of chip board, pry out till a gap wide enough to see where the metal plates and spring clips are. Then prying against metal on both sides (between plate & door, but with the chipboard protecting your paint and upholstery) you should be able to pop the spring clip out of the hole in the door sheet metal. They make small plastic pry bar upholstery tools (like a screw driver with a slight angled forked end) to do this as well if you have one, but if not you can carefully use a putty knife and screw driver to pry out the spring clips. Paul
  22. You won't miss a beat not going to the gym during CV-19, good exercise, those are not light parts you are throwing around! Now we all know what the bearing looks like, and have great instructions in our files if ever needed! You were smart for not ignoring the equivalent of "heart attack warning signs" when you felt the shudder in rear end as you let off on the gas. Taking it apart to find the problem early may have prevented a Columbia explosion. Nice pics. Good Stuff.
  23. It really depends where the sealant is being used, there is a wide variety. I would not use the lower cost gasket maker acetoxy silicones on anything car or engine related since the acetic acid in it is the cure catalyst and causes corrosion on metal surfaces so they will leak in about 3 years. You can tell by it's strong smell right away. It is better for ceramic or non metal. The better silicone sealants have a sweeter smell but most will not hold up to high pressure and temp on a head gasket. Some car manufactures use silicone only on valve covers and oil pans. But you want to get the right cure time if you need time to fit, and you want the right viscosity and tensile strength so it doesn't blow out. Some like Loctite 598 black are thinner viscosity, but better quality silicone. And 5900 is a heavy body black silicone for oil pans- put on, finger tighten bolts, and slightly re-tighten bolts next day after cure. If a tranny gasket it needs to be chemically compatible. Have to be sure on rear end pumpkin gaskets to not use just any silicone because most will cause the oil/slip agent to foam and wear the gears fast. I think heavy body grey 5699 is recommended for rear end covers. I would research on line for your specific application, or call 1(800)-loctite and punch numbers needed to get to Tech Service, describe your application and they will give you a few P/N recommendations for free.
  24. Appreciate the feedback. Does not seem like just the rubber is available separately. If they were vulcanized originally, just the rubber would not help much. Wasn't sure if the buttons were made oversized when new and were just forced into the holes. Will have to ponder what's next, if it is worth trying to fabricate from bulk rubber and try to adhere. Thx!
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