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40ZephSedan

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Everything posted by 40ZephSedan

  1. Scott has hydraulic in 41 too. But I don't have a pic of a 41 brake. This is a pic of an adjuster (on mech & hyd both). He keeps saying "I don't know what you mean; How do you back off the adjuster?; Its not obvious; What are adjusters? So just trying to help him out providing a visual of what the adjuster looks like that he needs to find and back off.
  2. Since this is a beauty, and not just a driver, you might consider buying the Authenticity Manual off one of the website vendors. That manual is nowhere complete, but it is still packed with a lot of useful info which we can not list all for you here in short replies. Love the color, my Dad originally had a maroon 1941 coupe with fold down seats in 1950's, and unfortunately sold it after I was born, because it was getting tougher with little room to throw the 3 kids behind the front seat!! Figure they had about 80-100 Zephyrs coming down the line every day, and pulled about 4/day off to the
  3. Can anyone help with photos/explanations how the rear gas line routes over to the tank connection, as originally installed from the factory? 50 years ago my dad and I replaced the rusty gas line with copper, and just clamped on a rubber flex hose near the tank. Now that I have cleaned things up and installed new mounts and frame insulators, would like to install the gas line over to the tank with proper rigid tubing/hose, hardware, routing location, etc., to match the original install as close as possible. Is it rigid tubing all the way to the tank connection, with no rubber involved? Wh
  4. Scott, Picture may help make adjuster more obvious. Parts Manual is no help for drawings, but the Chassis and Parts manual does have many helpful diagrams, can find on ebay. Or you can download the 2020 Parts price book on Boos-Herrel web site and Chris has many good diagrams there as well. Not sure if this pic is front brake or not, may be a rear. But for illustration, try to find the adjusting hole in the back of the brake backing plate behind the star wheel adjuster and using a brake adjusting tool- turn the adjuster so it becomes shorter, the the end of the brake shoes come
  5. Hi Phil, Many fabrics were never reproduced and no longer available, so often can only pick something close. With LeBaron out of business, two other I am aware of: 1) SMS Fabrics in Canby, Oregon; never used them, may in future, know one owner with 39 sedan satisfied with them. 2) After Jim Roll passing and a great reputation esp for Continentals, his son Jan was reupholstering V12 Lincolns last I heard- in New Philadelphia OH; can ask if he will sell just the material separate, without doing install? Good Luck, Paul
  6. The V12 Engine Rebuild Manual cautions to assure all stamped rod and cap numbers 1-12 are assembled facing the front of the engine. If not, it will cause a clatter or loud racket, depending upon how many are backward. You are describing this as a knock, so this may not be the problem, but a long-shot possible cause.
  7. Ray at Classic Car Transport in Southington CT advertises in TWOTZ, has also parted out many many LZ's and excellent LZ parts source, at Hershey ea year, a class act, very responsive. Very pleased with a dozens of the parts from him, he probably has rims you need, he has almost everything .
  8. Another item you may have already considered,, If you have a two-speed Columbia, highway RPM's might not be a problem. but if no overdrive- you may want to think twice about a smaller circumference tire revving more on the highway. Phil Knapp summarized rim sizes well in his 8/30/2010 thread on 1940's vs 1941's, in addition to what Keith mentions. 1939/1940 = 16x4, 1941=16x5, and 1942 on were 15x5. Fender skirts have pretty tight clearance as well- anyone with experience changing from 16x4 to the wider 16x5 or 15x5 rims know if there are problems with the wider tires rubbing on the 193
  9. You got that rear drive-train back together fast, evidently its running well! Like the pics!
  10. Spot on Tom, you're good! Pic.
  11. I bought from Alan Whelihan at a parts swap - very nice; never checked Chris, he may have too. I think polished SS, but looks like chrome. Two different types depending on year. Need P/N or know if yours have the shorter or longer square shaft. Paul
  12. You are always expanding our horizons Jeff!! Now I know who Eddie Peabody is, the banjo king. But I bet Eddie didn't ever own both a H-V12 and a VW MicroBus, even more rare with your top narrow windows.
  13. The manual call for a Zephyr "H" part number, so it must be different than the Ford part number somehow. For a 1939 Zephyr (96H) it lists Fuel Tank # H-9002-A.
  14. By "I'd", are you looking for past owners and history? Would have to see if Dave Cole's past tracking charts might be available. 16H is a 1941. 57 designates the Lincoln-Continantal Coupe. And it is the 785th Continental Coupe made in 1941 out of ????? Not many made, probably toward the end of 1941. The actual VIN number used is the engine number stamped on the top of the frame between the driver front wheel and the exhaust manifold. Hope that is a quick help if you are looking to make a quick buying decision.
  15. If Cabr is similar to Sedans, is a small plate staked to inside of upholstery backing board holding the spring clip to the backing board. Can slip 2 pieces of chipboard (cereal box) in the crack between the door upholstery and the door metal to protect both. Put small putty knife between the 2 pieces of chip board, pry out till a gap wide enough to see where the metal plates and spring clips are. Then prying against metal on both sides (between plate & door, but with the chipboard protecting your paint and upholstery) you should be able to pop the spring clip out of the hole in the door
  16. You won't miss a beat not going to the gym during CV-19, good exercise, those are not light parts you are throwing around! Now we all know what the bearing looks like, and have great instructions in our files if ever needed! You were smart for not ignoring the equivalent of "heart attack warning signs" when you felt the shudder in rear end as you let off on the gas. Taking it apart to find the problem early may have prevented a Columbia explosion. Nice pics. Good Stuff.
  17. It really depends where the sealant is being used, there is a wide variety. I would not use the lower cost gasket maker acetoxy silicones on anything car or engine related since the acetic acid in it is the cure catalyst and causes corrosion on metal surfaces so they will leak in about 3 years. You can tell by it's strong smell right away. It is better for ceramic or non metal. The better silicone sealants have a sweeter smell but most will not hold up to high pressure and temp on a head gasket. Some car manufactures use silicone only on valve covers and oil pans. But you want to get t
  18. Appreciate the feedback. Does not seem like just the rubber is available separately. If they were vulcanized originally, just the rubber would not help much. Wasn't sure if the buttons were made oversized when new and were just forced into the holes. Will have to ponder what's next, if it is worth trying to fabricate from bulk rubber and try to adhere. Thx!
  19. A barn-find pic on-line shows the same thing.
  20. Manual calls for different door check P/N's for the different models. Series 56 with a longer door may have shorter check arm so it stops earlier (smaller angle), or would not be able to reach out from the seat and grab the arm rest. Series 73 4-door with shorter doors may swing out farther with larger angle because can still reach out from seat to shorter door and grab arm rest. Don't have both parts to compare however.
  21. Thanks Dave for including us in the findings step by step, with helpful photos! A good lesson learned by many now to pack away back in our memory & to keep an eye out for should we ever need it.
  22. Does anyone know of a source for the rubber only on the center crossmember exhaust hanger brackets (#5292-A)? Two new rubber/metal assemblies are fairly expensive; I have the metal if I can just buy the 2 rubber isolators separately. Thx,
  23. Manuals, or Boos-Herrel catalog, show a simple diagram to help visualize gears he refers to.
  24. Please note under the EVENTS tab CALENDAR that the information about the Swap Meet has been updated - the March 28th date has been postponed.
  25. Have never made the modification to a hi-vol pump myself, but read many threads in the past discussing modifications required to the pickup screen and "cup" in the bottom of the pan. You can visualize that the pump can not pull in oil if the pickup screen is blocked pressing on the bottom of the pan- starving for oil on pump inlet because no clearance; could cause low oil flow-low pressure. If you do a search on this forum for old threads, it indicates how important it is when installing a hi-vol pump that the engine re-builder knows the modifications required for a larger pump so it doesn't
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