Crazyred Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 I wanted to test the newly installed heat riser spring and oil gauge line flex hose and noticed something new. Behind the carb and intake manifold there is some seepage at the head gasket. What caught my attention was when I first started the car there were several small bubbles that came from this area. As this is my first flathead, what could be the problem? Tomorrow I plan on checking all the head bolts for tightness but wanted to get other feedback on potential problems. Thoughts??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 Put on a new head gasket and get the head checked for flatness. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 I would first re-torque the head bolts to see if that stops the seepage. Make sure yo follow the tightening sequence. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 14, 2021 Author Share Posted February 14, 2021 I found the tightening sequence but what are the torque requirements for the head bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 Head torque is 65-70 ft.lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 Final torque should be done withe the engine warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 14, 2021 Author Share Posted February 14, 2021 Thanks for the torque specs. Hwellens, what manual is that page from? I’m trying to find a detailed service manual for this engine and car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 You can probably find a shop manual for your year car if you search around. My manual covers several years. What year is your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 14, 2021 Author Share Posted February 14, 2021 I have a 33 pd body with a 34 pf standard engine. I bought a plymouth master maintenance manual for 33-36 and it's more general than detailed. I also bought a plymouth shop manual for 1937 year P3-P4, it's a little more detailed but not much more. I looked at motors manuals and it's not affordable at a near $200 price tag. Any other suggestions on affordable detailed maunals? These are the 2 I have plus the Deluxe Plymouth Six instruction book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 look here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Maintenence-Manual-1st-edition-Jan-1934-SC-1934/393036365633?hash=item5b82caff41:g:EasAAOSwz6tfw9qE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 The first year for a factory service manual for Plymouth is 1934. The engine in the 1934 is almost identical to the later 1933 engines (there were a number of running changes in 1933). So the book linked to by @hwellens is a close as you will get to the correct manual for your 1933. However, you won’t find torque value in that manual. They didn’t seem to start specifying the torque on fasteners until the middle to late 1930s. Please note that you have studs and nuts on your head rather than the bolts used later. The torque values are different as the bolts are course thread and the nuts are fine threads. I have written up what I have found on the torque values page on my website. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Thanks for the information. Once Texas begins to thaw out, I will check the torque on the head studs and nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I will bet that re-torquing will not solve the problem, but, worth a try. Don't go over the specs; those old bolts/studs will break. I had the same problem on my 38 Dodge and the head needed planing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hwellens. Thanks for the ebay link to the manual, i was able to pick that up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Was able to torque all the nuts to 55 pounds and after driving about an hour worth between a couple of trips, so far no noticeable bubbles. I'll continue to keep an eye on it though. I guess since they all turned at least a half turn could have made the difference?!? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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