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Everything posted by Crazyred

  1. I will give Andy B a call to see if they carry these rubber pieces. I have another dilemma now. I took my keyed exterior handle and ignition to two different local locksmiths and neither one had the know how to rekey these. Does anyone know of a locksmith in the Houston area that could handle this? What have other's done in order to get the keyed handle usable so they can lock up the car?
  2. @TTR, there are 3 firestone deluxe champions on the car now. How do these handle a wet road as I haven't experienced that yet? For these, as old as they seem, they are in good shape with some minor dry rot cracks. Do you know if the date codes on the firestones are accurate or just part of the old mold that's used? I am leaning towards the Firestone or the Goodyear. The goodyear appears to have a more aggressive tread pattern similar to what Ply33 had with the Bedford's. I have read that the coker tire company will make the tires and then store them for sometime ye
  3. Thanks Ply and Grimy! Just looked at the Bedfords, nice looking tire but not offered in the 16". When replacing the tires, do you normally replace the tubes as well? They are holding air with no issues.
  4. I have a 1933 plymouth PD sedan and needing to replace the 4 tires currently on it. I know everyone has their favorite brand of tire and have read many posts on the web in that regards. I will be putting bias tires back on them, it currently has 6.00x16 whitewalls (3 firestone and 1 coker). The firestone tires have a 3 digit date code of 248, which I think it means they're pre 2000 year? The coker, has no date code that I could find but the PO put it on around 8 years ago and has the best tread, maybe I could use for a spare? The coker whitewall has small cracking but the firestone whitew
  5. While I was freeing up the door latches I found two pieces of rubber (one in each front door) laying in the bottom, that I have no clue what they are to be used for. Also, I have a broken window bump stop that I am looking for a place to buy it from. Any idea on the flat piece and cylindrical hardened rubber piece might be used for and are they needed? Who might sell these three pieces?
  6. Thanks Knobless for letting me know. I received the springs early and was able to install them. Since I was afraid of breaking the tabs on the keepers (now I know about knobless stash) I modified the spring some what. Looking at how it installs I slightly bent the straight portion of the spring that locks into the keeper. I was able to give it enough angle and then place it into position and carefully using channel lock pliers pushed up and with the spring flexing it slide through the keeper slot and into position. This worked fine for the drivers door but not so well on the pa
  7. Thanks Ply! I'll order these and give an update once I get them installed. Hopefully it goes well like your installation. I have the keyed handle and ignition switch at a locksmith hoping they can get them working and rekeyed.
  8. Are these the correct remote handle lock springs? I am always leery of ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-1940-Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-Desoto-Door-Lock-Latch-Remote-Springs/393183827610 I didn't see anything on Andy's site so I'm looking elsewhere.
  9. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I was finally able to remove the front passengers assembly. I did have to wiggle the outside handle in order to remove it from the assembly. Once removed I was able to determine that the latch assembly needed cleaning and a thorough oiling. This freed up the handle in order to return to the up position on its on. In order to make the re-installation on the door easier, I did remove the window gear assembly. This proves to be a much easier way to remove and install the latch assembly if your glass is not glued in. Fortunately mine is held
  10. Lol Scott couldn't tell if I've ever had a tetanus shot before. On this passenger front door the interior handle when used returns via spring with no issue. I know the lock spring is broken as it has no resistance when moved in to or out of the locked position. The two back doors lock spring still work. Since the inside handle returns that make me think it's on the outside handle part or latch. I soaked the internal parts with some pb blaster and I'll let it soak overnight. Things have freed up but not working as it should. As this handle has a keyed lock
  11. Ok so after removing the two screws that hold the outside handle on, the handle won't pull out. Is there something inside that holds it as well?
  12. Thanks Scott. With your info i was able to remove the panel easy enough. I realize what the have fun refers to 😄. Now i have to shrink my hands to work this assembly out. Any tricks to it?
  13. On my 4 door sedan, two of the four outside handles will not return up unless it's manually lifted. The other two need a slight lift and the they raise up with the spring. All four doors are covered on the inside. Before i start taking things apart i wanted to figure out how the inside handles are released. Since there are no exposed screws on the fabric, i assume they have some type of push snap to hold it to the door? I searched but was unable to find any posts regarding the removal of door panels and handles. Any advice is greatly appreciated so i can get these do
  14. Thanks Reg, I did as this is the same site I used to look up the serial number. Ply33 has some info about exports but mainly on the pcxx models. I was surprised that it might be an export and curious to know how it ended up back in the states. That may not ever be known though.
  15. I searched my serial number on ply33's site and noticed something i didn't catch before. When i bought the car i checked the serial number to see if it was a pc or pd. It fell in the range of a pd. Now i checked and noticed the range it fell in is noted as a pdx which was built in Los Angeles. Looks like around 5000 pdx's were built that year. Where could this have been shipped? This week i sent the build record form to fiat historical but not sure if that will tell me where it was originally sold. Are there any variations that i should look for on the car that signifies it's a
  16. I found this thread a couple months back and have been reading as I have time. The entire time thinking how great this story is and how much information and documentation is being provided. I was envisioning that Taylormade was driving off at the end of the thread when I reached it. Now, I'm in real time and looking forward to the finale this year. Fingers crossed for ya!!!
  17. Was able to torque all the nuts to 55 pounds and after driving about an hour worth between a couple of trips, so far no noticeable bubbles. I'll continue to keep an eye on it though. I guess since they all turned at least a half turn could have made the difference?!?
  18. Hwellens. Thanks for the ebay link to the manual, i was able to pick that up!
  19. Thanks for the information. Once Texas begins to thaw out, I will check the torque on the head studs and nuts.
  20. I have a 33 pd body with a 34 pf standard engine. I bought a plymouth master maintenance manual for 33-36 and it's more general than detailed. I also bought a plymouth shop manual for 1937 year P3-P4, it's a little more detailed but not much more. I looked at motors manuals and it's not affordable at a near $200 price tag. Any other suggestions on affordable detailed maunals? These are the 2 I have plus the Deluxe Plymouth Six instruction book.
  21. Thanks for the torque specs. Hwellens, what manual is that page from? I’m trying to find a detailed service manual for this engine and car.
  22. I found the tightening sequence but what are the torque requirements for the head bolts?
  23. I wanted to test the newly installed heat riser spring and oil gauge line flex hose and noticed something new. Behind the carb and intake manifold there is some seepage at the head gasket. What caught my attention was when I first started the car there were several small bubbles that came from this area. As this is my first flathead, what could be the problem? Tomorrow I plan on checking all the head bolts for tightness but wanted to get other feedback on potential problems. Thoughts???
  24. Thanks Frank. The problem was, I needed to find a washer with an id of 11/16”. Seems I could only find that size online.
  25. Well after exhausting the local auto stores and not finding any washers, I decided to try to anneal them. This is another first for me while working on this car. Heated, cooled and reinstalled. Fired it up and backed out and noticed a pool of gas were the car was...,😳 Thirty minutes later and fixed a stripped screw on the fuel pump, time to test the filter. After driving and everything’s up to temp all seems sealed now and no fuel leaks either. Thanks for all the advice and I’ll try annealing again when working with copper washers.
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